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Sound deadening


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Posted

Hi all.

Just an observation, and interested in other IQ owner opinions. 

My niece is the owner of a 2011 IQ2.  I own 2013  IQ3 - both cars have manual transmission.

Not being a fan of stop/start -  (more to go wrong / more expensive Battery / extra "wear and tear" on starter motor and fly-wheel etc - against the pro of negligible improved fuel economy .  When buying my IQ3I was happy to learn that the stop/start system originally fitted to the new IQ3 in 2009, had been stopped being fitted around May 2012. At the time of Toyota dropping the stop-start system on the IQ3, it would appear they also stopped fitting the plastic "chrome" door mirror covers. 

I can only think that this was to reduce production costs.

I have noticed that my niece's IQ2 with smaller engine, is quieter on the motorway at 70mph than our 6 speed IQ3. I'm not saying the IQ3 is noisy -  but just not as quiet as the older 5 speed IQ2 !  Also, when closing the door on the 2011 IQ2, it closes with that satisfying so-called "VW clunk". The door of my IQ 3 door just feels lighter and to a degree, a "tinnier" clunk when closing if that makes sense !

Despite the IQ3 having a larger engine and 6 speed gearbox - at 70 mph it cruises at approx 2800rpm - which is only slightly less than my niece's 5 speed IQ2 (3000rpm -ish)

When the IQ3 was fitted with the stop-start system - the official CO2 emissions for the manual transmission model was 113 g /km. This obviously has a bearing on car tax cost. I'm thinking that when Toyota decided to stop the stop-start system, they had to strip some of the "excess weight", in order to keep the CO2 emissions below the "magic" 120g / km, rather than the significant cost increase of placing the non stop-start IQ 3 into the next tax banding (over 120g/km) of £110, instead of the original £30 bracket ? My non stop/start IQ3 has a CO2 rated at 119g/km - conveniently just under the 120g/km limit.

The large road tax cost increase would obviously be a major draw back for sales of the already relatively expensive "city car".

Perhaps this was for the UK market where car tax banding would be different from that of other countries. This is of course purely conjecture !

Needless to say, the 1.3 naturally has a bit more OOMPH performance wise. A lightweight car sporting an engine just shy of 100BHP would sound a recipe for a "pocket rocket", but in essence, I find performance is ok - certainly not exhilarating !

I suspect the "name of the game" was to keep "miles per gallon" sensible, and good emissions rather than out and out performance. Just wondering if other forum members have their own experience of driving earlier IQ' s (IQ1/2  v  IQ3),  compared to the later cars - regarding noise levels - especially at motorway speeds. Have you replaced your older IQ, and found your newer IQ is slightly noisier ? Not necessarily noisy, just a bit noisier. Wondering if the later models have less sound deadening than the early cars.

  • Like 1
Posted

The speed difference is because of the gearbox ratios, tax class is due to engine and weight, IQ, IQ2 and IQ3 are the different trim specs, the IQ3 being top of the range apart from the Aston Martin Cygnet

As for mirror caps standard on the IQ3 but there were a few editions without them, they were also optional on the IQ and IQ2

door sound can be changed by the sound insulation and door card

If you want power, try one of these https://www.topgear.com/car-reviews/aston-martin/cygnet-v8

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Posted

I still don't know how the heck they fitted a V8 into that thing!! :laugh: 

Posted

Hi Bob.

Thanks for reply. Your response infers that there may be more than one type / specification of door card/ sound insulation - hence difference in noise level. This could be part of the weight reduction required to keep the CO2 levels in check.

I must admit, the only time i've personally seen the "chrome" mirror covers are on 12 plate and earlier IQ3's. I've never seen them on the 1 litre versions - nor a 62 plate or later IQ3.


  • 10 months later...
Posted
On 12/17/2021 at 6:49 PM, flash22 said:

 

...door sound can be changed by the sound insulation and door card...

 

I'm looking at some sound deadening. Just a DIY job.

The car is quite quiet but I'm sure improvements can be made...

Posted

 

 

it's the same principle as the Aygo

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Hello,

Does anyone know...

I have some thermal sound deadening material to put on the inside of my (tiny) IQ bonnet.

There is already some material there...

Would it be better to place it on top of the existing material OR place sections behind, or is there not much difference?

Are the plastic retaining pins easy to remove; I'm not sure what magic is required to remove them?

Regards.

Posted
1 hour ago, PCM said:

There is already some material there...

What is the nature of the material that is already there? e.g. fibre backed or foil backed? I'd be inclined to remove it either way, clean the area in solvent (isopropyl alcohol is my choice), and apply the new stuff.

(And, how do you know what's there if you haven't taken the clips off yet ?!?)

On the Auris (so perhaps similar to yours?) the bonnet clips look like this:

1949824626_AurisBonnetclip.thumb.jpg.a4913ef1745ddd53b8acc4056883dcf4.jpg

On our clips, the projections under the head, that anchor the clips, are below the two small circles, just visible in the picture.  I cut a 'V' groove in an old credit card and slid it under the head to try and cause these barbs to disengage/retract. 

But, you could cut the card in half and attack the clip with the two halves from both sides simultaneously.  Yours might be different!

This was only partly successful.  To some extent, your fingernails will probably be bleeding a little after the clips are removed.  In theory it's straightforward, but for me it was a really annoying job. 

And the clips may end up getting just slightly stretched during the trauma of removal, so they're a slightly looser fit going back in, just so you know.

I strongly recommend putting a blanket over the exposed engine and wings - some of the clips will try to launch into the engine bay at speed, I can almost guarantee this, and the Toyota price for a new clip will likely be in the thousands.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Gerg said:

What is the nature of the material that is already there? e.g. fibre backed or foil backed? I'd be inclined to remove it either way, clean the area in solvent (isopropyl alcohol is my choice), and apply the new stuff.

(And, how do you know what's there if you haven't taken the clips off yet ?!?)

On the Auris (so perhaps similar to yours?) the bonnet clips look like this:

1949824626_AurisBonnetclip.thumb.jpg.a4913ef1745ddd53b8acc4056883dcf4.jpg

 

Great post - thank you.

Yes, it was thin felt stuff.

Using a towel I prised out the plastic grommets, careful not to lose any!

There was bare metal behind, so had a clean and added thermal patches there, then put back the felt and grommets.

The bonnet is tiny, but it felt worth doing...

 

 

Posted

Rear Wheel Arch inside trim - I'd quite like to add some sound-deadening material over the rear inner wheel arches.

I'm assuming if I can remove the plastic trim I can do that. I'm just not quite sure how to remove it.

I recall there was a similar post but the (kindly) posted pictures were a bit to small for me to see...

Any guidance most gratefully received! 

  • 11 months later...
Posted
On 11/7/2022 at 9:05 AM, PCM said:

Rear Wheel Arch inside trim - I'd quite like to add some sound-deadening material over the rear inner wheel arches.

I'm assuming if I can remove the plastic trim I can do that. I'm just not quite sure how to remove it.

I recall there was a similar post but the (kindly) posted pictures were a bit to small for me to see...

Any guidance most gratefully received! 

Still yet to manage it... but one day...

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Posted

Has anyone here removed the back/rear door plastic trim?

The manual says: "Disengage the 9 clips and remove the back door trim board."

That's fine, but I don't want to break it.

Not sure where to start...

 

b211150.png


Posted

use a plastic trim tool but don't go all gorilla on it, start near a corner once you have a few released it will come off with ease

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

 

3 hours ago, PCM said:

Has anyone here removed the back/rear door plastic trim?

The manual says: "Disengage the 9 clips and remove the back door trim board."

That's fine, but I don't want to break it.

Not sure where to start...

 

b211150.png

I removed that bit of trim a few months ago, to route the wiring for my rear view camera. It's not hard. Just start at one corner and have a few spare clips handy, in case any break.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Better wait till its warmer.. the cold temperature now makes the plastic clips hard. Or use heated garage.
This spring or summer i want put some sound isolation in doors and rear door too..

  • Like 2

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