clicking sound behind dash

[MattMatt83]

Hi I have a 2011 mk1 aygo and i have an issue where if the ignition is off there is a random clicking noise. sometimes i come back to the car and its clicking but as soon as i put the key in the ignition and turn it once the clicking stops. I am worried that it will eventually drain the Battery and its a real pain having to keep disconnecting the Battery if i am leaving over night. any clues please 

 

Cheers 

[flash22]

How old is the Battery ??

Pull the 7.5 amp IG1 fuse and see if it stops - IG1 is located behind the gauges

https://fuse-box.info/toyota/toyota-aygo-ab10-2005-2014-fuses-and-relay

[MattMatt83]

22 hours ago, flash22 said:

How old is the battery ??

Pull the 7.5 amp IG1 fuse and see if it stops - IG1 is located behind the gauges

https://fuse-box.info/toyota/toyota-aygo-ab10-2005-2014-fuses-and-relay

Hi There,

The Battery is about 6 months old but i will check the fuse IG1... recently the car needed a new clockspring and indictator as the airbag light was on and it wasnt signaling right, thankfully i bought those 2nd hand from eBay and fit them myself. there was a whole host of issues and somehow managed to fit a new complete exhaust and catalytic convertor to the car on my drive and it passed it mot just before christmas.. my dad gave me the car before he died 6 months ago so its got some sentimental value to me. its a great car but has various leaks from anywhere water can get in. this little car is my Rollsroyce the way i am always doing something on it to try improve drivability.. 

[haelewyn]

Water leaks could be solved too. New seals / rubbers around the doors I think and the break light housing rubber that can be replaced.

[Vandals01]

Same problem.

It is the Power Steering ECU, which is located behind the storage compartment (next to the headlight level switch).  You can actually touch it by sit on the drivers seat and just reach your hand to the back of the storage compartment.  And if you want a good view of it, look above the gas pedal (the first module in your sight when you look up).

The Power Steering ECU has a white label with mostly blue letters along with a barcode "2251200C" (for Right Hand drive).  (Left hand drive will be white label with black letters).

I'm going to leave it as it is, as everything is still working fine (apart from the annoying clicking).  Battery-wise, I don't think the draw is significant.  However, I'm also doing my homework in case the situation deteriorate.

[Vandals01]

Unfortunately, the situation did deteriorate.

On the eve of 2023 Valentines day, power steering become OFFLINE.  There is a P/S light on the dash and my car no longer has power steering.  Which is not exactly a huge deal, since my very first car did not have power steering back then.

However, I must say, the steering wheel on the Aygo is much more heavier.  Probably because of the motor in the steering column (I need to turn the wheel as well as overcoming the drag on the motor which is not spinning).

During my research, I stumbled onto this video:

Which leads me to believe the relays in the Power Steering ECU is the point of failure.  I've ordered the relays and a second hand Power Steering ECU (P/S ECU).

My initial plan is to use the original P/S ECU whenever I can (disconnect the Battery before I remove it and apply the fix).  That way, I do not have to borrow an OBD2 to perform a "Torque Sensor Calibration".   And if that does not work, it will be the second hand P/S ECU with the OBD2 Calibration.

Let's see how it goes (still waiting for parts).

[flash22]

You still need to calibrate it no matter what - have you pulled the codes and checked the fuses (large 50a bottom right of the fuse box) ?

[Vandals01]

1 hour ago, flash22 said:

You still need to calibrate it no matter what - have you pulled the codes and checked the fuses (large 50a bottom right of the fuse box) ?

Yeah, the 50 Amp fuse behind the car Battery still intact.  Haven't pull the codes yet as I don't think my £100 OBD2 reader can handle it.  I do have something specifically for Toyota but I kind of messed up.  Might give it another try later.

What's weird was that I drove it out no problem.  Switch off the car for 15 minutes, jump back into the car and the P/S just gone.

[flash22]

You should be able to pull the codes, you can pull the EPS codes manually

link the pins, turn on the ignition and count the flashes

kgb10 eps test.pdf

 

 

See No.2 for manual zero point cal

kgb10 eps zero point.pdf

 

[Vandals01]

It was the relay.

When the new set of relay came through the post, I went to the painstaking task of unbolting the Power Supply ECU.  While I was tapping it, the whole thing went clicking again.  Put the key into the ignition, start the car, Power steering back online (YEAH! After 2 weeks driving without power steering).

So switch off the car, unhook the Battery, spent an hour trying to take the top screw off the Power Supply ECU.  My initial plan was to replace the two Relays, until I open it up and found it was a mission impossible for a soldering beginner.  Therefore I decided to reflow the solder on the relays instead.

Put everything back, rehook the Battery, no more clicking.  Best of all, it doesn't required a Steering wheel toque calibration.  However, I did leave out the top screw because if anything wrong, I do not want to fight with it again.

Today (4 days later), I finally got a decent OBD2 reader.  The codes were:

C1554 Power Supply Relay Fault, one for speed sensor and another which I can't remember.  Cleared all three and shall see what happened.

I did grab another Power Supply ECU off eBay just for spare.  However, I was a bit disappointed to find out my P/S ECU was 225000-1200, and the one I bought was 225000-0070 (what appears to be an earlier model). Oh well.  Backup I guess