Aygo 1 Starts but does not idle or rev

[bwel]

Hi,

My daughters Aygo 2007 will not start and run. It had not been driven for a couple of weeks and now when trying to start it:

- Fuel pump can be heard priming

- Turning ignition, it fires up but does not continue to run or idle

- even dabbing the accelerator when staring does not seem to push it further. 
 

Battery seems very healthy in terms of the starter and I’ve also charged it fully just in case. 
 

Any ideas ?

[flash22]

Any lights on the dash ? Have you scanned the car for codes ? Has the car been jump started ?

[bwel]

I’ve attached a video of the dash lights when starting. Sorry it’s taken just now in the dark…
The car has not been jumper started. 
Unfortunately I don’t have Code reader. 
 

 

[Wiz201]

Wouldn't hurt to check the spark plugs x

[haelewyn]

The same rules always apply : 

check if you still have petrol,

read codes

See if all connections are connected under the bonnet

Try to jumpstart.. check Battery charge and alternator loading or not

does it get spark and fuel.

>>>Imho if you need to choose one of both, go for spark first as that is, in my experience, a more common failure than not getting fuel.

If the car is not running the lights on the dash say nothing..

In case of no solutions found : call AA / RAC or tow it to a dealer 

[Guest]

Are you using the same key as before, and is the small immobiliser grey chip still present in the key?

I ask because this was exactly the symptom (crank but no start) when I tried to use a key without immobiliser.

[haelewyn]

--

 

[flash22]

How old is the Battery ?, to me, it looks like a Battery and/or alternator issue - the Battery may be fully charged but during crank the voltage may be dropping and causing the electronics to freak out hence the rapid flashing P/S and abs lights

the immobilizer cuts the fuel pump and spark

[bwel]

3 minutes ago, flash22 said:

How old is the battery ?, to me, it looks like a battery and/or alternator issue - the battery may be fully charged but during crank the voltage may be dropping and causing the electronics to freak out hence the rapid flashing P/S and abs lights

the immobilizer cuts the fuel pump and spark

The Battery is not so old and is cranking full on many times with no determination. I also tested it with a load tester. The alternator was replaced last year. 
 

I’m going to try some tests re the immobiliser today as I found another post that seems similar to my starting problem. 

[flash22]

Check the Battery voltage at crank, if the Battery was flat and left overnight the cold could have got to it - Alternator, was it a New Denso replacement or a cheap reconditioned unit

[bwel]

1 hour ago, flash22 said:

Check the battery voltage at crank, if the battery was flat and left overnight the cold could have got to it - Alternator, was it a New Denso replacement or a cheap reconditioned unit

The Battery has been load tested and is very strong on starting. The engine starts but stops after a second or so.  

[bwel]

3 hours ago, PetrolDave said:

Are you using the same key as before, and is the small immobiliser grey chip still present in the key?

I ask because this was exactly the symptom (crank but no start) when I tried to use a key without immobiliser.

I only have the one key and the covers are sealed hard on. 

When you had a starting problem, did the engine initially start but not continue to run or was there no firing up at all ?

[Red_Corolla]

The immobiliser would normally disable the ignition system, so I'd be very surprised if that's the problem knowing that the engine does fire.

Need to establish that the fuel pump is supplying and maintaining the correct pressure, then move onto electrical checks such as coolant temperature, mass airflow etc. You could experiment with those sensors unplugged but be aware that this will set the check engine light on.

[bwel]

17 hours ago, Wiz201 said:

Wouldn't hurt to check the spark plugs x

Spark plugs removed and cleaned. They were dry with a little carbon but not too bad. Cleaned up and tried again but no difference. 
 

it’s starting but will then immediately not idle or pick up reva with gas. It does definitely fire up. 
 

New starting video attached. 

[bwel]

7 minutes ago, Red_Corolla said:

The immobiliser would normally disable the ignition system, so I'd be very surprised if that's the problem knowing that the engine does fire.

Need to establish that the fuel pump is supplying and maintaining the correct pressure, then move onto electrical checks such as coolant temperature, mass airflow etc. You could experiment with those sensors unplugged but be aware that this will set the check engine light on.

The fuel line has pressure. I removed it yesterday to check albeit just with a finger over the end plug to feel pressure. I don’t have a pressure meter or connector.  
 

The pump is priming when you first start the key. It could still well be a fuel issue, but I’m not sure what else I can check with limited tools for that. 
 

I understand the Fuel filter is a non changeable part of the fuel pump on these models.  

[Red_Corolla]

6 minutes ago, bwel said:

The fuel line has pressure. I removed it yesterday to check albeit just with a finger over the end plug to feel pressure. I don’t have a pressure meter or connector.  
 

The pump is priming when you first start the key. It could still well be a fuel issue, but I’m not sure what else I can check with limited tools for that. 
 

I understand the Fuel filter is a non changeable part of the fuel pump on these models.  

It's a positive sign but not conclusive, unfortunately. It needs to be able to deliver and maintain around 50psi, or whatever the spec is for your particular system. I appreciate that you're trying to do a DIY diagnosis and this is not what you want to hear ☺️

Do you have a simple OBDII code reader to be able to read & fault codes? That might give you some direction and, if you can reset the light, there's no harm in trying it with the sensors that I mention unplugged, just to get some clues.

 

[bwel]

8 minutes ago, Red_Corolla said:

It's a positive sign but not conclusive, unfortunately. It needs to be able to deliver and maintain around 50psi, or whatever the spec is for your particular system. I appreciate that you're trying to do a DIY diagnosis and this is not what you want to hear ☺️

Do you have a simple OBDII code reader to be able to read & fault codes? That might give you some direction and, if you can reset the light, there's no harm in trying it with the sensors that I mention unplugged, just to get some clues.

 

Unfortunately I don’t have a code reader. 
I have just unplugged and replugged the sensors around the top of the engine, but it’s made no difference.

Im Running out of ideas now and dont have any specialist tools for fuel pressure or code reading, so I may have to tow it down to a garage tomorrow.  

[Billyboy81]

Buy an ELM327 bluetooth OBD2 adapter for less than a fiver on eBay and get the free version of the Torque app on your phone. You will then be able to do basic code readings (among other things).

[Red_Corolla]

33 minutes ago, bwel said:

Unfortunately I don’t have a code reader. 
I have just unplugged and replugged the sensors around the top of the engine, but it’s made no difference.

Im Running out of ideas now and dont have any specialist tools for fuel pressure or code reading, so I may have to tow it down to a garage tomorrow.  

Not unplug & replug. Leave unplugged while you try to run it. This will force the system to use a default fuel strategy rather than the value from the sensor, but will also set a fault code.

There's also the classic method of squirting easy start or flammable brake cleaner down the air intake while an assistant turns it over. If you can make it run for longer using that method then you know it's fuel delivery.

[bwel]

41 minutes ago, Billyboy81 said:

Buy an ELM327 bluetooth OBD2 adapter for less than a fiver on ebay and get the free version of the Torque app on your phone. You will then be able to do basic code readings (among other things).

I’ve found a wiFi ODBII reader in my draw that I used on another car a few years back. 
 

Any recommendation for an IOS App that seems to work best with Toyota Argo’s 

 

[Guest]

3 hours ago, bwel said:

When you had a starting problem, did the engine initially start but not continue to run or was there no firing up at all ?

No firing at all - this is how the Toyota immobiliser behaves.

 

NOTE - not all immobilisers behaves this way, e.g. the VW immobiliser behaves differently, it allows the engine to fire but then run only briefly.

[bwel]

19 minutes ago, PetrolDave said:

No firing at all - this is how the Toyota immobiliser behaves.

 

NOTE - not all immobilisers behaves this way, e.g. the VW immobiliser behaves differently, it allows the engine to fire but then run only briefly.

Aha. Mine is firing up but does not continue to run in steady idle of if you give it gas. 
thx

[bwel]

2 hours ago, bwel said:

I’ve found a wiFi ODBII reader in my draw that I used on another car a few years back. 
 

Any recommendation for an IOS App that seems to work best with Toyota Argo’s 

 

I’ve got an ODBII connection now, but it reports No DTC codes. 

[flash22]

Rapid flash of the P/S and ABS show it as an electrical issue as i said above, because it's new or only a year old doesn't mean it's not faulty

Take the aux belt off and see if the car runs

[bwel]

I got Car Scanner OBD reader working and it found the B2799 Immobiliser fault. 
There are quite a few YouTube videos on this and how it results in the Car starting but immediately cutting out after 1 or 2 seconds, as mine does. 
 

Unfortunately the process of re syncing  the key, Immobiliser to ECU does not work for me.  I.e. linking OBD pins 4, 13 for 30 mins with key turned does not work. 
 

Any other suggestions to fix this ?