2009 Toyota auris indicator on dash not showing

[Bazgona]

Hi, my auris is not displaying the indicator function for turning left on the dash, it makes the noise and externally they are functioning, the right indication displays on dash, 

Could this be a problem with the stalk or the indicator relay? 

Thanks

It's a mk1 2009 2.2 d4d

[Gerg]

I think this fault has been seen before, it is likely to be the individual LED itself inside the speedo/dash module.

A repair involves removing the speedo assembly, disassembling it, and soldering in a new green LED in the place of the defective one.  It isn't that difficult if you are happy soldering surface mount LEDs and removing speedo needles etc.  Finding (guessing?) a green LED to match the existing one for brightness can be a hurdle of sorts.

As long as you have an indicator sound (which usually is generated inside the instrument assembly as well), as you say you have, then from an MoT/legal perspective, the car is still good as it is with the LED failed. (Someone who knew about the MoT aspects reported as such on this forum.)

There are companies who will do this repair work for you for, say, around £150 or less, depending if you send the instruments to them etc.  A new speedo assembly from Toyota is probably upwards of £600, plus fitting.

A speedo assembly from a breakers will supply you with at least two perfectly suitable donor LEDs, (probably more), and allow you to work out how the assembly comes apart.  And if you repair the old unit, then your odometer keeps the correct mileage. So worth considering.

Happy to be corrected of course.

HTH

[Bazgona]

When it's dark outside you can see a little light from it, very faint, during day you can't see it, I'll look at the soldering option it's not that difficult to remove the cluster, and I'll look at it from there, thanks

[Gerg]

1 hour ago, Bazgona said:

When it's dark outside you can see a little light from it, very faint, during day you can't see it,

That's interesting.  When an LED dies it's usually total.  Perhaps this isn't a simple LED failure.  Once the display is apart the LEDs can be checked with a multimeter for correct operation.  This job is much easier with fine-pointed meter probes.

In the 2012-> model, the LEDs are a 3528 type.  In situ, they look like this:-

 

You can see plenty of them in that photo, including four clustered around the hybrid power gauge needle (two give white light, two give red in this instance - yours will be a different PCB design, of course, but still very likely to have the 3528 type of LED).  Each LED has four solder pads, as can hopefully be made out - it's not the sharpest photo.

It would be good to see how your fault gets resolved.

[Bazgona]

I've searched the forum and the led needed for my year car are (kingbright KPED-3528CGCK) I'll take the instrument cluster out once we get brighter days knowing they still function I don't need to rush to get it done, thanks for you're help guys

[Bazgona]

Bit of an update, I was going to take the cluster out and test voltage, but before I did I checked that it still wasn't displaying, however the indicator indication functions both left and right at the same brightness and for hazards too, I'm a bit stumped to why this is but will keep an eye on it. 

[Gerg]

Sadly, from what I've seen, this is not unusual for the failing LED.  I do wonder if an internal (to the LED) connection breaks, but sometimes makes sufficient contact again?  Just a guess!  Resoldering the LED can apparently 'fix' the problem too,  but for me at least, it came back after a while. 

In our case, replacing the LED did fix the fault.

On a digital voltmeter, the 'diode test function' will usually cause the LED to dimly glow, in order to prove that it is working (at that moment anyway!).  Obviously, this test is polarity dependant.

[Bazgona]

1 hour ago, Gerg said:

Sadly, from what I've seen, this is not unusual for the failing LED.  I do wonder if an internal (to the LED) connection breaks, but sometimes makes sufficient contact again?  Just a guess!  Resoldering the LED can apparently 'fix' the problem too,  but for me at least, it came back after a while. 

In our case, replacing the LED did fix the fault.

On a digital voltmeter, the 'diode test function' will usually cause the LED to dimly glow, in order to prove that it is working (at that moment anyway!).  Obviously, this test is polarity dependant.

I'm going to purchase the replacement led's there only 33p and if it goes off again i will check and replace, just annoying because you think it's not illuminated in the car you believe its not functioning externally, but it is an older car so unfortunately older problems will happen 

[Red_Corolla]

It sounds like a dry joint on the PCB. Might be a bad LED but it's very unusual for them to fail.

[Bazgona]

OK so it was working for a week and it stopped again, I took out the cluster and used my multimeter on it and the left and right indicator read the same values ( I didn't write them down) couldn't see anything visable even with a magnifier, so put it all back together and for the last week it's back working again, so a bit stumped to what has or is causing it, if it turns out to be a faulty led or dry solder I'd be better giving it to someone with less shaky fingers than mine to resolder. 

[Itskamil]

Hi did you fix the problem ? I have the same one 

[paul9]

I had the same problem on my Yaris, turns out someone had painted black on the inside of the dash clear acrylic cover. They were hiding the Check Engine Light.

[Cyker]

Sneaky gits!