Compressor blowing fuses ?

[drpete]

sonic cleaned lifter filter and replaced lifter bolts, although trying to find out the torque has been a choir, not sure about 7.457nm (5.5ft.lb). tightened with 1/4 drive by hand and then checked with torque wrench, came up 11nm, that a do. got the solenoid out at the front of head without touching s/c, just found out its under the solenoid, oh ****. there's not any mention of the 2nd filter on vids I've watched on vv-ge lifters. spot on Alex, although I'm struggling why the s/c would shut down when th lifters kick in?. while cover off check chain, 1/2in up and down, looks like another job, on the head pain level, hopefully it will be all worth it.

[alexcbx]

Hi Pete,

Disconnect the Battery, for 5 minutes, and then give the car a fast run.
The ECU takes a little while to settle-in, after it’s been reset or, if the Battery has been disconnected. 
As I understand it, if you drive it fast for about 20 miles, it’ll improve its performance. 

On our Comps, the charger kicks-in from start-up. Boost then starts to peter off after ‘lift’. (5200rpm). 
Our engines have a high compression ratio (11.5.1). They’re also quite ‘cammy’ and there’s power all the way to 8000rpm. 
So, there’s no need for the charger to work when lift is peaking.

If you’ve ever driven a standard 1.8 T-Sport it feels like there’s a little flat-spot and then all hell brakes loose at 6200rpm as lift kicks-in. 
The Comps charger helps with that high compression, at low revs, and smooths that little ‘flat-spot’ out.

Some might argue that owning a Compressor is expensive and ……..!

[drpete]

cleaned 2nd filter, compared to the first filter, it was pretty clean. while I had all the air pipes off, I checked the s/c oil level and it needed toping up, oh no where the.. will i get oil seals from I wonder? anyway I'm all set to go and experience the lifters, but i need to disconnect the Battery to clear the ecu, however I don't have a radio code,do they have a code? all I got with the car was the log book and a recipe for a new batt.

[alexcbx]

No radio code for Comps

[drpete]

thanks Alex.... here we go.....

[flash22]

Enjoy your drive, hopefully all is well, oil seals, not a clue, but it's worth doing the bearings while you're at it

the bearings are rubber shielded

i think i have the Toyota diagram for the tx14

 

[alexcbx]

3 hours ago, drpete said:

cleaned 2nd filter, compared to the first filter, it was pretty clean. while I had all the air pipes off, I checked the s/c oil level and it needed toping up, oh no where the.. will i get oil seals from I wonder? anyway I'm all set to go and experience the lifters, but i need to disconnect the battery to clear the ecu, however I don't have a radio code,do they have a code? all I got with the car was the log book and a recipe for a new batt.

I think the seals are going on mine too. 
Whenever I check the oil level there’s always a bit of gunk inside my charger.  
So I always top it up every 5000 miles.  I need to do some research as to who (in the UK) can rebuild it. 
 

[flash22]

There's a guy on eBay he is getting parts from Malaysia, by the looks of it

i can't find any reference to oil seals, but the bearings are rubber shielded - Ogura do not supply spares

[drpete]

4 hours ago, alexcbx said:

I think the seals are going on mine too. 
Whenever I check the oil level there’s always a bit of gunk inside my charger.  
So I always top it up every 5000 miles.  I need to do some research as to who (in the UK) can rebuild it. 
 

i had black gunk oil dregs in the charger when I put the new clutch on. I've done 200mile and no reading on the dip stick. its abit of a pain checking the oil level, having to take the air pipes of to get at the filler plug. when I've got all the other jobs done, I'll strip it down and get the oil seal numbers and seizes, and check my local bearing and seal company, shouldn't be a problem. I've just paid main dealers £160. for the upper steering column shaft UJ and the lower column joint they wanted £350, sod that I'll take the bearing out and replaced it myself and at the same time ask if they an help with the s/c seals. the experience of the lifters was something else, ii kept running out of road, 5000 rpm and upwards was astonishing, like having a blast of Nos. when i got back I pluged the code reader in and it's coming up with PO171, it mentions worn spark plugs, yet I've replaced them 2wks ago. I always put my hand up l don't understand something, we are all learner's and we are all teachers, I live bye that. when those lifters kicked in, the valve's opening more and the torque it bangs out, how could it possibly suck enough air through the s/c with out the charger engaged, wouldn't that be why the tte compressor has a few more HP than the T/sport? anyway i do appreciate the feed back l get, I've learnt so much from this forum. great stuff.

[alexcbx]

P0171 code could be a dirty air filter or dirty MAF sensor. 

[flash22]

i would be looking at the readings from B1S1 o2 sensor and check the resistance

 

hol up edit. did you replace the intake gaskets when you had the charger out - unmetered air with throw the fuel trims

[alexcbx]

Part number for the intake gaskets is: 17376-YW501
These guys used to stock the correct gasket for the TX12 but this is all they have now...
http://www.matrixgarage.com/products/sc14-previa-gasket-kit

[flash22]

IIrc they are Cometic gaskets, But they are not listed

i did find. https://twosrus.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=10&products_id=100

[alexcbx]

2 hours ago, flash22 said:

IIrc they are Cometic gaskets, But they are not listed

i did find. https://twosrus.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=10&products_id=100

That’s a great find, flash22. 
For $24.99 and a little research, they’re worth a try. 
 

[drpete]

Well thats a rum en, Bob, after you pointed out that the s/c bearings are sealed, i came to the conclusion that the bearings would act as a seal. thanks for your reacerch Bob. hey Alex, if your considering buying one of these seal kits? it might work out cheaper on the u.s postal charges to order 2 in one parcel and i could Royal mail it to you or vice versa? As for the intake gaskets, I'm always making gaskets for Tractor's and stationary engine's. I'll check the gasket material and make some up. I had a long run with the lifters working today, serious torque, loved it.. got back with the P0171 up again.. lean fuel, could partly be due to the s/c oil getting through the intake. my air inlet pipes are abit soft at clamp ends, my job list is getting longer every day, its well worth it though.

[flash22]

Had a look at the technical drawings, it does show 3 seals as well as the double row, double grooved rubber/nitrile shielded bearings

 

If you can measure the bearings and seals, I'm sure you can pick up the correct items, I have got hold of bearings for 70-80 year old engines before now

https://simplybearings.co.uk

I have used these for many years, and they have sourced some really odd spec bearings for me

Being a German design (Wan-kle GmbH) and Jap manufactured, I suspect it will be all metric

61100004_01_TX12_CS.pdf

 

 

 

 

[drpete]

On 4/2/2022 at 1:20 AM, alexcbx said:

Pete,

The standard T-Sport and Compressor shocks are different and Toyota will charge you the earth for a set of Compressor shocks.
I wanted a set 6 years ago and they quoted me £1500.00!

So, I

Quote

bought a set of BC's... Car handles and looks 100%

https://gt4-play.co.uk/shop/bc-racing-coilover-suspension

 hey Alex, the link for the coilovers. is the set that comes up the ones for the tte comp?

 

 

[flash22]

Aftermarket fit the ts and comp, for road use uprated shocks and fixed springs will give the best result without the hassle of getting coil overs setup

[alexcbx]

On 4/18/2022 at 12:09 AM, drpete said:

Well thats a rum en, Bob, after you pointed out that the s/c bearings are sealed, i came to the conclusion that the bearings would act as a seal. thanks for your reacerch Bob. hey Alex, if your considering buying one of these seal kits? it might work out cheaper on the u.s postal charges to order 2 in one parcel and i could Royal mail it to you or vice versa? As for the intake gaskets, I'm always making gaskets for Tractor's and stationary engine's. I'll check the gasket material and make some up. I had a long run with the lifters working today, serious torque, loved it.. got back with the P0171 up again.. lean fuel, could partly be due to the s/c oil getting through the intake. my air inlet pipes are abit soft at clamp ends, my job list is getting longer every day, its well worth it though.

I'm up for that Pete.
I just tried to order a seal kit and they won't post to The UK.... Taxes or some stuff!
Would you mind ordering me a set and sending them to me...over the pond?
Cheers,
Alex
 

[alexcbx]

1 hour ago, alexcbx said:

I'm up for that Pete.
I just tried to order a seal kit and they won't post to The UK.... Taxes or some stuff!
Would you mind ordering me a set and sending them to me...over the pond?
Cheers,
Alex
 

Sorry Pete, I've just realised that you're in Norfolk.
For some reason I thought you were in the USA........ Grey matter isn't working today!

As I said previously 'twosrus' won't ship to Blighty.
This is their reason:
>Hello,

We at this time are not shipping to the U.K. Due to the Tax collection requirements. 

Im sorry for the inconvenience.

 

Tyler

@TwosRUs.com<

If you know of anyone that can help us.......

[drpete]

Haven't had time to update lately, been so busy. Then got corona last week, starting to feel better now, any how I decided to tackle the Oil Seals, what a nightmare it's been. The bearing housing has 2 little holes either side of the bearing. Unknown to me each bearing has 2 receses as does the casing, a black liquid is injected into the holes to fill the grooves in bearing and casing, it hardens and retains the bearing in the casing. Only I have found like it is loctite 668. Not knowing about this, on removal of the first bearing I cracked the side of the housing. Lucky for me I have a mate who specializes in these probs. So I take the bearing and old seal to my local bearing supplier. You can't get seals or the bearings. They suppled me with seals that matched ok. Said leave the bearing with them and they will see what they can do. Called me a week later and said the can get 2 bearings from Eastern Europe at £200 each, so ordered then. Need to have a break, feeling a bit weak. I'll post this so far in case I loose it all and carry on in 15 min.

[Derek.w]

Expensive bearings.

It wood be nice to have searched for bearings using the code printed on the edge.

If parts are cemented in a little heat releases the glue.

I can remember using a industrial strength locktight on verious parts over the years.

[drpete]

Cont... with my learn the hard way knowledge of how the bearings are retained, I tackled the second bearing. Just as Derek said, I heated the casing and the black stuff ran out of the 2holes, a bit more heat and the bearing came out fine. The oil seals are made by NOK seal no.AE 1215G I checked the NOK catalog, AE 120 is there and the next is AE 122, no listing of AE121. The bearings are NEK BD17-21aNX, unobtainable. Not to happy with my cracked casing and the copy bearings I ordered, I came across a job lot of 2 complete Volvo Penta blowers and 3 dismantled blowers some clutches and bits n bobs, one of the blowers had water damage on the pistons (turbines) I took the gear box casing of and the oil was like new, the seals had done a good job of keeping the water out. The bearings are in excellent condition and I managed to cancel my ordered bearings. Unfortunately these blowers a fraction bigger, although the bearings ect, are identical. I have carefully cut the bearing out of the casings. The replacement seals I have are PIA. NE 1716. I'm wondering weather to use these or the seals I took out with the bearings. I never want to have to replace them again. Should have casing back tomorrow.

[Derek.w]

Please note slight differance in parts lettering is down to the sealing type on the side of the bearing ie open, plastic & metal plus it can be just one side thats sealed.

A other option go direct to a bearing MFG site and try them ie TDK bearings just to name one.

[flash22]

It may have been a typo, are the bearings are NSK ??

let's break down the code BD21-17-ANX (or is the ANK)

BD21 - DB- back to back, 21mm wide

17 - 17mm internal dia.

A - No filling holes (oil way holes to feed the bearings)

N -

X - special series bearing

 

 

Page B46

https://www.nsk.com/common/data/ctrgPdf/bearings/e1102m.pdf