Auris MK1 "handbrake only met requirements" - anyone else had this issue?

[ziauris]

Hi,

My Auris Mk1 is due MoT soon, at last MoT it said "handbrake only just met requirements" and the mechanic said Auris's usually need new brake discs, pads and handbrake cable to resolve this issue. I have replaced the rear pads around 10k miles ago, discs are original and still within wear limits. 

I'm hoping that it will not need all the above parts. Has anyone else had the same MoT advisory and can let me know their experience of how they resolved the issue.

 

Thanks

[Mooly]

The only comment I could make is that I have observed the handbrake on my Auris when applied at low speed is pretty ineffective. It seems normal and is no different now to how it was when new.

In comparison the handbrake on our old Corolla would lock the rear wheels if you wanted it to.

What I'm saying is that its possible you are chasing a non problem. Before you do anything I would get second test done of the brake efficiency. I believe efficiency is related to the vehicle weight and how much force the brake will resist. A 1000kg car should resist 160kg force if its efficiency is 16% (which is a figure I've seen mentioned as the minimum limit). 

[furtula]

Is there any slack in handbrake? Maybe just needs to be tightened.

I don't really see a need to replace the cable, it's a hassle, and prob it's just there to ramp up man hours on a simple thing.

[ziauris]

On 3/24/2022 at 6:44 AM, Mooly said:

The only comment I could make is that I have observed the handbrake on my Auris when applied at low speed is pretty ineffective. It seems normal and is no different now to how it was when new.

In comparison the handbrake on our old Corolla would lock the rear wheels if you wanted it to.

What I'm saying is that its possible you are chasing a non problem. Before you do anything I would get second test done of the brake efficiency. I believe efficiency is related to the vehicle weight and how much force the brake will resist. A 1000kg car should resist 160kg force if its efficiency is 16% (which is a figure I've seen mentioned as the minimum limit). 

I'll take it in before the MoT and ask that he check the handbrake to see if it's got any worse, I'll also take everything out to make the car lighter.

I posted as I wanted to see what others experience had been of this MoT fail and if there were any easier fixes.

 

On 3/24/2022 at 7:13 AM, furtula said:

Is there any slack in handbrake? Maybe just needs to be tightened.

I don't really see a need to replace the cable, it's a hassle, and prob it's just there to ramp up man hours on a simple thing.

His suggestion did seem a bit excessive, but MoT testers wife had an Auris and he said this handbrake fail is common on the Auris and only way to fix in his previous experience has been complete replacement of cables, discs and pads. 

The rear brakes passed the test (he didn't say any different anyway) and since they are used for the handbrake mechanism, I would think they should be OK too. 

I've already got new discs I bought a while back but did not fit as even after 100k miles the Auris's rear were still within limits (7-8mm), so that it not a big issue and a job I can do myself. The cables are another matter and would need some money spend.

[Rhymes with Paris]

You can have an MOT a month before it's due to give you time to fix if needed.

Or indeed at any time before it's due.

Then if it fails at least you would know if any work or expense is necessary.

As Mooly says it may be a non problem.

My experience of this kind of thing is on an old lexus is200,it went for an MOT and passed with no advisories.

A few days later it went for a "free" health check at the lexus main dealer where apparently it was in a dangerous condition needing 4x discs ,pads all round and new tyres x 4 , around £1000 worth.

So my way of resolving the issue would be take it somewhere else for an MOT early and see if it passes or fails.

MOT is supposed to be objective rather than subjective I know, and obviously you don't want an easy MOT , even if such things exist anymore for safety reasons.

 

[just_jon]

I thought MOT rules had changed and if the car fails on anything deemed 'dangerous' then legally you are not supposed to drive it on the road, even if you've taken it a month early.  Perhaps I'm wrong!

The rear pads & discs are very cheap for good quality replacements.  Likewise the callipers if the handbrake mechanism is sticking.  I haven't priced up the cables yet though.

[Cyker]

No! Never take a car for an MOT if you think it will fail! Even if you take it months before it's due, that will become the new MOT anniversary date, AND, if it fails the MOT, the car immediately looses its valid MOT status even if it had months to go on the old one - The new one, whether it passes or fails, automatically overwrites the old one. 

What you should do is get a pre-MOT inspection, which is basically an unofficial MOT, but if it 'fails' you can still drive the car as it won't overwrite the existing MOT.

As an aside, you can take a car for an official MOT any time you like - However, that will reset the start-date of the MOT to that day (I did mine 9 months early on the last car so that the anniversary would change to being during the school holidays!)

The one-month thing is only if you want to keep the existing anniversary date of your MOT - Doing it within that month stops it being reset to a new date.

 

[Spo2]

6 minutes ago, Cyker said:

No! Never take a car for an MOT if you think it will fail! Even if you take it months before it's due, that will become the new MOT anniversary date, AND, if it fails the MOT, the car immediately looses its valid MOT status even if it had months to go on the old one - The new one, whether it passes or fails, automatically overwrites the old one. 

What you should do is get a pre-MOT inspection, which is basically an unofficial MOT, but if it 'fails' you can still drive the car as it won't overwrite the existing MOT.

As an aside, you can take a car for an official MOT any time you like - However, that will reset the start-date of the MOT to that day (I did mine 9 months early on the last car so that the anniversary would change to being during the school holidays!)

The one-month thing is only if you want to keep the existing anniversary date of your MOT - Doing it within that month stops it being reset to a new date.

 

Who does the pre MOT inspection? Would a Toyota dealer do during the service and i can get the MOT done later by tem or someone else? 

[Rhymes with Paris]

Oops,it looks like my advice was wrong and out of date.

I was thinking of saving the op unnecessary expense as in finding out what the actual situation was before spending much money.

So go with the better and more up to date information from the other members here.

Sorry to cause confusion.🤐

 

[TonyHSD]

On 3/23/2022 at 11:01 PM, ziauris said:

Hi,

My Auris Mk1 is due MoT soon, at last MoT it said "handbrake only just met requirements" and the mechanic said Auris's usually need new brake discs, pads and handbrake cable to resolve this issue. I have replaced the rear pads around 10k miles ago, discs are original and still within wear limits. 

I'm hoping that it will not need all the above parts. Has anyone else had the same MoT advisory and can let me know their experience of how they resolved the issue.

 

Thanks

When a new pads are replaced best practice is to put a new discs too even the old one been in a good shape with minimal wear on them. The reason for that is that when new pads are installed they need to bed in which actually its a process where a small amount of the pad material is equally layered onto the discs surfaces and they become shiny. Until then you have not good stopping power and can easily make a bed in process to go wrong which will cook the pads and sealed them in which scenario you will not be able to make the pads be able to provide enough friction to stop the car effectively. This is also why many new discs has honing lines on them and some new pads has an abrasive material, to help this process happen faster and correct. Another reason why you may have this advisory is if you have stuck slider pins or stuck piston on the callipers which will prevent the pads to clamp the disc with enough force, reduced braking power. The inner part of the brake  Cables on most cars made after year 2000 are coated with special poly material that prevent rust and stuck in cold and ice conditions, also this extend the life of them and make them maintenance free, no lube needed. 
Here is my suggestion: 

buy a new set of discs and pads , clean the slider pins properly and lube with silicone grease, clean callipers and mounting shimsm double check if pistons return freely and put back in together, dry fit everything, no grease. Bed in correctly, just drive smoothly in the first 200 miles , avoid hard braking and you will be fine. 👍 Good quality discs are blueprint and pads EBC Ultimax, this is what I use and no problems at all. 👍

[Cyker]

Actually, does the Auris handbrake use shoes-in-hub or does it have that weird cam mechanism to actuate the brake pads?

I always get suspicious when someone says a handbrake issue needs new brake pads and discs, as I come from an era where the handbrake had nothing to do with the brake pads - In my day they either operated on a rear drum, or a drum-in-hub for cars with rear discs, as it was physically impossible to apply enough clamping force to a brake pad with a handbrake lever.

I've only recently become aware some actually do actuate the pads using a cam-lock system to magnify the force of the handbrake, but don't know how common this is as this came about about the same time manufacturers started switching to EPBs.

 

2 hours ago, Spo2 said:

Who does the pre MOT inspection? Would a Toyota dealer do during the service and i can get the MOT done later by tem or someone else? 

Any competent garage, esp. one that does MOTs anyway, will be able to do a pre-MOT inspection. TBH, the service is mostly inspecting the car to make sure everything is right anyay (Which is why EV owners are often surprised that the servicing cost isn't that much different than an ICE car - The inspection part of the service takes the same amount of time, you just get less physical consumables for your money because fewer fluids etc. to be changed), so even that should catch any potential MOT fails that are mechanical.

The pre-MOT inspection (I keep calling it that but not sure if that's what it's actually called, maybe a mock MOT??), service and real MOT are independent so you don't have to do any of them at the same time. I usually get the MOT and service done at the same time for convenience tho'.

 

@Rhymes with Paris - Sorry, didn't mean to sound like I was jumping on you - Just wanted to clarify a few things as I know a few people who made that mistake before and then been left without a car!

[TonyHSD]

Auris uses its actual brake pads to hold the car while parking brake is applied, the piston is pivoting and that’s why you need a special tool to turn the piston while pushing in for a new pads replacement. 👌 Hand brake indeed is weak, some other cars with brake shoes for hand brake only have much stronger brake. 👍

[Rhymes with Paris]

Ah no problem Cyker, I can see the logic.

 

[furtula]

Similar topic with good amount of info.

Handbrake does have some grip to it, but yeah, not that much as opposed to shoes in disc setup.

I had mine tightened not to have any slack in the cable anymore, i would call it a decent brake, never had any give even on a 15% degree incline, but yeah, i would definitely not call it anything else than just a parking brake.

Would prefer a stronger pull, in case of emergencies, where it's kinda useless.

.

[Hornet3D]

I have been very suspicious about MOT after I owned a MK 1 MR2.  At that time most cars were set up so three clicks on the handbrake would fully apply and hand brake but the MR2 was different, it was seven clocks if I remember rightly.  It failed on an MOT for not working with three clicks with the recommendation to completely replace the brake parts.   Luckily for me the Honda Dealership was happy to retest and pass the car with no work done, after which I always had the MOT done at the dealership, at least the technicians knew the cars they were dealing with. 

My confidence was further eroded when I worked briefly for another branch of national repair shops that employed two MOT testers.  I was amazed at the number of cars that would fail with steering rack failures, even on some nearly new cars.  I did a little digging and found that for every car one tester failed for steering rack problems the other failed over thirty.  When I raised my concerns with management they did nothing although they were very quick to apply pressure on the same branch if it's tyres sales were down at the end of the month.  A bit rich for an organisation that professes to speak for UK drivers.

It was a situation I could not accept so I left some weeks later.

[Guest]

I

39 minutes ago, Hornet3D said:

At that time most cars were set up so three clicks on the handbrake would fully apply and hand brake but the MR2 was different, it was seven clocks if I remember rightly. 

Yes, I remember taking a 1990 Peugeot 505 Estate for it's M.o.T., years ago, before the computerisation. It failed on the "handbrake excessive travel". Seven clicks. It caused them quite some hassle to re-issue a pass after I pointed out what was written in the driver's handbook! "Handbrake travel, 7 - 11 clicks of the ratchet mechanism".