CVT Gearbox Help Needed 2013 1.6 Petrol

[furtula]

I don't know where you got that gearbox, but it's hard to get any info on it. I see flash posted stuff for K311, i found for K313.

Fill from empty is 7.5L of fluid,owners manual earlier says 7.7, but no info on transmission model.

Here's the complete info about that transmission.

k313.pdf

[stevem9]

Many thanks Dean.  I believe it's just the later K311 as it appears identical on the outside and so far as I can tell just has a few upgraded bits inside and I am told it is a direct replacement for the K311.   It came direct from Japan. If it hadn't had K312 stamped on it I would never have known it wasn't a K311.  I guess I'm going to have to put 7.5l in and hope.  Toyota info does not seem to be readily available which is disappointing.  I'm going to start looking out for anyone with a petrol Auris or Corolla of the same vintage and see if I can persuade them to let me dip their box (should be possible by the roadside) and measure the level and fluid temperature then set get mine into the same level / temp. 

[furtula]

In that case i think you can use this procedure for K311.

Oil capacity specified  is much lower than those 7.5L, but matches what you would see if you checked on youtube CVT fluid replacement on Corola's.

So i guess that 7.5L was not correct, did seem like a lot of fluid.

 

http://zatonevkredit.ru/repair_manuals/raw_content/AWIzruQoBFyj9RK36Pw7

[stevem9]

Thanks again Dean, it does look as if it may only need 3 litres of fluid.  The problem I still have however is not knowing how deep the fluid should be in the transmission sump.  All the versions I can find are either like the K311 one you reference, which has the overflow tube in the sump - which neither of my transmissions have, or show a dipstick with hot and cold markings in the hole where both the old and new transmissions only have a bung.  Without either a dipstick or an overflow level tube I'm still stuck.

[TonyHSD]

26 minutes ago, stevem9 said:

Thanks again Dean, it does look as if it may only need 3 litres of fluid.  The problem I still have however is not knowing how deep the fluid should be in the transmission sump.  All the versions I can find are either like the K311 one you reference, which has the overflow tube in the sump - which neither of my transmissions have, or show a dipstick with hot and cold markings in the hole where both the old and new transmissions only have a bung.  Without either a dipstick or an overflow level tube I'm still stuck.

If you in doubt you may want to pop up into your nearest dealer and ask the service manager or service advisor to talk to them and explain the issue you have they will look for you on their system and give you an advice. I have done that previously regarding different problems at St Albans branch and they explained everything I needed to know and advised me what to take care off myself, 5 min well spent there. 
I can’t help with your work as I never touch a transmission like yours but I know that automatics with torque converter when oil change you need to follow a procedure and there is alway some oil left in the torque converter, therefore you may only add half quantity. Best to speak to people who actually had done it and know how. 👍

[furtula]

Did you check your transmission for the overflow bolt? It's just a normal bolt, so one may overlook it thinking it's for something else.

If we can judge by K311, it's on the outside side, close to the wheel. It should be a bit different than rest of the bolts, maybe a bit bigger, or might have some marking.

Would be weird not to have it, it just makes the job harder for the workers who have to service it.

[flash22]

The bulk of the fluid is fed in via the side fill plug

The fill is on the side of the box, the fill tube is in the pan remove the drain plug and use hex 6mm to remove the fill tube to drain the box - replace the fill tube and tighten leaving the drain plug out fill until it overflows out of the fill tube

then install the drain plug, adding the specified amount through the fill plug -install the fill plug - run through the fluid temp adjustment - then recheck the fluid level via the fill tube - if fluid comes out it's over full, if not top it up until it does

 

The full procedure, read carefully as there are 2 sections for fluid temperature adjustment gts and non gts

https://www.dropbox.com/s/td5b3tj4v3qd64z/k311_2_3 adjust.pdf?dl=0

[stevem9]

Thanks again Bob and Dean.  As I have mentioned before THERE IS NO FILL TUBE.  Not in either the old or new box.  The drain plug is just that.  The sump has been taken off the new box to fit a new filter and off the old box in case there was a level tube in that.  There isn't.  The plug is basically flush with the inside of the transmission sump.  I shall have a good look for an overflow bolt tomorrow, it there is one hopefully this will be the equivalent to the fill tube in terms of level setting, that would make sense to me if I think in terms of a manual transmission and I guess it may be the level at operating temp, but is it worth taking a chance?  Everyone is pointing me to the filler tube, but nothing helps because there simply isn't one. I really suspect this box should be done with a dipstick in the bung hole and maybe Toyota - like Mercedes - don't supply one although Mercedes ones are easily available on the aftermarket, I cannot find a Toyota one.  I think you're right Tony, and a trip to our local Toyota dealer is in order, they're not far from me and I should probably have done that first but I wasn't expecting it to be so difficult to find out how much fluid or how to check it.  Normally if all else fails RTFM but in this case none helps.  I was fully prepared to have to do a negative pressure fill and check, but without knowing the right level even that's impossible, I expect I could make up a fill -level- tube or a dipstick, and I have vacuum and temperature monitoring equipment but without knowing what level it should be at leaves me STILL stuck.  I thank everyone but please remember THERE IS NO FILL TUBE IN THE TRANSMISSION SUMP - on either box.

[Devon Aygo]

1 hour ago, stevem9 said:

Thanks again Bob and Dean.  As I have mentioned before THERE IS NO FILL TUBE.  Not in either the old or new box.  The drain plug is just that.  The sump has been taken off the new box to fit a new filter and off the old box in case there was a level tube in that.  There isn't.  The plug is basically flush with the inside of the transmission sump.  I shall have a good look for an overflow bolt tomorrow, it there is one hopefully this will be the equivalent to the fill tube in terms of level setting, that would make sense to me if I think in terms of a manual transmission and I guess it may be the level at operating temp, but is it worth taking a chance?  Everyone is pointing me to the filler tube, but nothing helps because there simply isn't one. I really suspect this box should be done with a dipstick in the bung hole and maybe Toyota - like Mercedes - don't supply one although Mercedes ones are easily available on the aftermarket, I cannot find a Toyota one.  I think you're right Tony, and a trip to our local Toyota dealer is in order, they're not far from me and I should probably have done that first but I wasn't expecting it to be so difficult to find out how much fluid or how to check it.  Normally if all else fails RTFM but in this case none helps.  I was fully prepared to have to do a negative pressure fill and check, but without knowing the right level even that's impossible, I expect I could make up a fill -level- tube or a dipstick, and I have vacuum and temperature monitoring equipment but without knowing what level it should be at leaves me STILL stuck.  I thank everyone but please remember THERE IS NO FILL TUBE IN THE TRANSMISSION SUMP - on either box.

Being of the same family the K312 uses the principal mentioned by @flash22 with a fill tube inside the sump drain hole, it took a bit of finding as the K312 is used sparingly and most worryingly only on 1.5 NZ engines in smaller models like Vitz ( Japanese Yaris )

the fill tube being 35125e, as a non UK/EU type part dealers will not be able to source specific repair instructions as Toyota only provide technical information for models we sell within the EU/UK

[stevem9]

Thanks Lee.  Wow now this is weird. I'm going to get a fill tube (or more likely a sump pan complete) from a UK vehicle. It is the same as the K310/311 so I guess it will give me the correct level.  I know a local breaker has (had??) one in stock when I was looking for a new transmission as they had a complete car with the right transmission but knew it had failed as that was why the car was scrapped.  They are open this morning so that'll be my first stop.  Mine is a 1.6 petrol, not hybrid.  The torque converter that was with the box had K311 on it and - as mentioned - the only reason I know the box to be a 312 is because it's stamped on it, otherwise it appears externally identical to the 310/311.  Hopefully today I'll know if all's good or not.  Will keep you posted.

[stevem9]

Well I've now got a sump with a tube! feel like I've robbed as when I told them what was going on with mine and they wouldn't take any money for it!  But what a mess, loads of cr*p in the fluid and on the magnets so I guess the box it came off was truly mullered.  I thought the fluid in mine was bad, burnt smelling and black but at least it wasn't gritty and gunky.

[flash22]

That's very odd, they must have used the 312 box for a very short period as they may have had a shortage/supply issue with Aisin

 

Just had a look on the epc JDM Auris use the K312 on the 1.5 and 1.8

 

Burnt and black fluid - burnt out clutch packs possible due to the lack of fluid changes

[stevem9]

Well.  transmission is now in, all wired up and with the 'new' sump fitted.  Removing the rear crossmember made the job ridiculously easy, literally a straight lift on the transmission jack, push it to the engine and bolt it up, then bolt on the torque converter.  Wish I'd taken the rear crossmember off before taking the box out.  How on earth are you supposed to do the rear transmission mounting and keep sane though? It seems to be the one piece of bad design.  With the rear crossmember (to which it mounts) in place you cannot get it out except with the box, even when unbolted, and you have to put the bits up before putting the rear crossmember back on if, like me, you've taken it off.  I think it would have been almost impossible, or required the worlds strongest men to get the box back with the crossmember on.

Had enough for today, most everything under the car is now done with the exception of tightening the hub nuts and replacing underpanels so having a day off tomorrow and Monday will be fill transmission and do the topside stuff then fingers crossed.

[stevem9]

Job now completed. Everything back together and all running and seems OK.  Transmission filling with overflow tube in sump went well but was surprised that it took about 7 litres at 40deg C before it started to come out the fill tube given that the initial fill recommended was only 3 litres after transaxle and torque converter change.  MANY THANKS to all who helped me find the information for this.  Getting a gearbox sump with the overflow tube was absolutely vital as the base of both the old and new sumps originally fitted had no provision for this and had flat bottoms.  I'm now virtually certain that there is a dipstick for these and there is a whole procedure for filling when there is a dipstick that I found, but without the dipstick or its specification I was stuck.

[flash22]

It's 3 litres plus the initial fill the pan must take 3-4L to fill it, the book spec is 7.7 IIRC that's total dry fill with new TC

Glad you got it sorted in the end

 

I had a good hunt around and the instructions are the same for the K311, 312 and 313

i can't find any reference for that plug, other than it being an alternate fill point - same box, different car

Plug assy - 35150-48010

[flash22]

Pan pressure test point or pressure relief

[stevem9]

Thanks Bob,

There do seem to be a few odd things with the Auris 1.6 and nothing really seems to cover it.  It's supposed to be on a Corolla platform but there are a number of differences going by the manual where the Corolla stuff does not tie up with the Auris.  It's been a learning curve, there is actually nothing difficult changing the transmission and having done it once I would be able to do it again in a fraction of the time but I'm glad I did it rather than have a specialist even though they do not charge huge sums.

There are so many really nice touches in the design and it's obvious Engineers not accountants had considerable input.  There are the odd stupidities, m6 mickey mouse metal bolts on the front undershield that shear as soon as you look at them, the dreaded rear transmission mounting, the left hand drive shaft where there isn't room to get the separator in (but once you realise there is room on the right you can take off that shaft and give it a tap through so no real problem) The front mount where you have about 20deg of swing so it takes ages, but all in all one of the better ones to work on.

I cannot believe how much information is available on the diagnostics, I had to page through a huge amount of stuff on live data before getting to the ATF temperature, I thought Mercs were good but Toyota... WOW!  Everything available, readable and playwithable.

[flash22]

20º of movement you need a flat ratcheting spanner or ratcheting open-ended spanner, the Auris is a mixed bag it shares parts with the yaris, corolla and CH-r, never liked MB or BMW late 90's onwards they turned to very brittle plastics and very complicated systems in the last 7 years or so they are using more fibre optics for their data buses and tons of modules

 

[stevem9]

12 hours ago, flash22 said:

20º of movement you need a flat ratcheting spanner or ratcheting open-ended spanner, the Auris is a mixed bag it shares parts with the yaris, corolla and CH-r, never liked MB or BMW late 90's onwards they turned to very brittle plastics and very complicated systems in the last 7 years or so they are using more fibre optics for their data buses and tons of modules

 

Have both Bob but there is no room for the head of a ratcheting ring of any sort (well Halfords expert or Snap-On) and my ratcheting open enders need a tad more swing than available given the head size.  An obstruction ring spanner at least allows you to do it albeit swapping it each time (need both a left hand U and a right hand U - most have a different size at each end which does not help with these so you're best off with an ordinary non offset combination ring and swap sides each movement for maximum turn.  It's obviously do-able without but very tricky.  I tried all sorts.

Re the MBs - I've been running them since the late 60s and there was a really dodgy era from 1995 to 2003 with the W210, Rust and over complicated hydraulic suspension but bullet proof drivetrain, and W211 where there were so many really stupid design features needing specialist tools on the running gear, and still body rust issues. The most recent ones I agree may well be overcomplicated but I have resisted updating mine as I'm getting to the point I haven't long left so why bother, I'd rather spend the money having a lot of fun in my last few years. The W212 up to 2016 is a better beast, I currently have a 250cdi which has 230,000 miles on it and a 350cdi ed125 which has been lightly breathed on and has over 300,000 miles. Both have been meticulously serviced and apart from timing chain issue with the 250 (at the back of the engine, but so long as the guides and cogs are OK chain and tensioner are do-able without removal) the only real problems have been wear parts.  Suspension Air Bags are now a breeze, both rears can be swapped out in less than an hour, as can rear shocks, which I think is a masterpiece of design and the front struts are bolt on in place of pinch bolt systems, but I digress, this is a Toyota forum.

[flash22]

Have you seen the Wera Joker spanners the open end has both a trad open end and 12 point, with a nut/bolt holder and teeth to tackle those worn/rusted nuts and bolts - they are not cheap tho

[stevem9]

3 hours ago, flash22 said:

Have you seen the Wera Joker spanners the open end has both a trad open end and 12 point, with a nut/bolt holder and teeth to tackle those worn/rusted nuts and bolts - they are not cheap tho

Just looked at them, seem nice and I do like the idea of the toothed bit on the open end and the offset made up by the design.  Knowing me I'd probably get the nut stuck a few times by putting the spanner the wrong way round but that's just me and anyone sensible would be fine, I may invest in a set so they are to hand if needed in future.

I couldn't find any ratcheting open end spanners in their range though, I love my Chicago ones, they were not cheap and only require 30deg to ratchet but that's 10 more than was available.  I have slim ratchet rings which look a similar thickness to the Wera ones but sadly they did not fit. If I could have had the depth to get a socket on with either a sidewinder or twist handle it would have made life easier but no room.  The job got done though, and next time (if there is one) I will investigate how much could be attached to the box before offering it up as that may be the answer.  As I took it off with the rear crossmember in place and only removed the member to re-fit I stupidly did not think to do a proper investigation.