Yaris 2017-2019: remote open/close windows & rear fog light

[Vins213]

34 minutes ago, flash22 said:

Driver side front window (front left):
UP yellow/red with red 8
DOWN yellow with green 5

Driver side rear windows (rear left):
UP gray/black with yellow 12
DOWN gray with black 13

Passenger side front window (front right):
UP orange/purple with white 16
DOWN orange with pink 15

Passenger side rear window (rear right):
UP blue/brown with red 10
DOWN blue with green 18

Positive red 12v with 20A fuse to grey 6
Negative black 12v with W-B 1

ACC ON white with ACC ON mirror 21

DOOR LOCK green 12v+ with yellow 4 lock door

Green/black lock 12v- and purple top window not connected

 

So, I have to:
1. reinstall the 20A fuse instead of the 7.5A
2. cut the wires and join the double color to the switch wire, and the single color to the motor wire

 

Correct?

[flash22]

1. reinstall the 20A fuse instead of the 7.5A - Connected to pin 6 grey
2. cut the wires and join the double colour to the switch wire, and the single colour to the motor wire - Yes

[Vins213]

20 minutes ago, flash22 said:

1. reinstall the 20A fuse instead of the 7.5A - Connected to pin 6 grey
2. cut the wires and join the double colour to the switch wire, and the single colour to the motor wire - Yes

Thanks Flash! Tomorrow is the day

[Vins213]

Well...replaced the 30A fuse, but....the driver side window only works in UP, not DOWN, not AUTO UP/DOWN...I checked the main switcher and if I put the little switch on DOWN, I have 0 with + in pin 5 and - in pin 1, also in AUTO with + in pin 4 and - in pin 1...with + in pin 8 and - pin 1, with the little switch in UP position it works

I think the main switcher is dead, the 3-4-13-14 fuses are ok

 

Can I still install the mod?

[Vins213]

On 5/4/2022 at 5:08 PM, flash22 said:

2. cut the wires and join the double colour to the switch wire, and the single colour to the motor wire - Yes

Question: why this installation mode?

[flash22]

As it only needs to power the windows up when signalled by the lock, the window switch changes polarity to make the motor go forwards or backwards

[Vins213]

38 minutes ago, flash22 said:

As it only needs to power the windows up when signalled by the lock, the window switch changes polarity to make the motor go forwards or backwards

Ok thanks! 
 

BTW I think I have to change the main switcher 😞 74232-0D690

[Vins213]

I can still install the mod with the switcher not 100% working, right? The other windows should work fine

[Vins213]

On 5/4/2022 at 5:08 PM, flash22 said:

1. reinstall the 20A fuse instead of the 7.5A - Connected to pin 6 grey
2. cut the wires and join the double colour to the switch wire, and the single colour to the motor wire - Yes

Doesn't work 😔 the windows work but nothing happens when I close the car with the remote..the scheme is this, with the double color wire to the switcher and the single color wire to the motor:

Driver side front window (front left):
UP yellow/red with red 8

Driver side rear windows (rear left):
UP gray/black with yellow 12

Passenger side front window (front right):
UP orange/purple with white 16

Passenger side rear window (rear right):
UP blue/brown with red 10

Positive red 12v with 20A fuse to grey 6
Negative black 12v with W-B 1

ACC ON white with ACC ON mirror 21

DOOR LOCK green 12v+ with yellow 4 lock door

Green/black lock 12v- and purple top window not connected

 

[flash22]

Did you check for the lock pulse, pin4 should be 12v+ when locked, and pin 1 is ground, i take it you left some windows down to test

is this the same module or a replacement ?

 

 

[Vins213]

10 minutes ago, flash22 said:

Did you check for the lock pulse, pin4 should be 12v+ when locked, and pin 1 is ground, i take it you left some windows down to test

Didn't check the lock pulse, I was a little disappointed 😔 
yes I have put down three windows (except driver side), closed the door and locked the car...0 windows movements 

 

 

12 minutes ago, flash22 said:

is this the same module or a replacement ?

same module, the new one I think it will be here on Wednesday 

[Vins213]

34 minutes ago, flash22 said:

and pin 1 is ground

I don't have connected any wires on pin 1, the green/black for -12 lock is unconnected (same for the purple wire for top window)

[flash22]

1 minute ago, Vins213 said:

I don't have connected any wires on pin 1, the green/black for -12 lock is unconnected (same for the purple wire for top window)

Good, leave it like it

 

The reverse voltage probably killed that module, TBH

 

[Vins213]

1 minute ago, flash22 said:

The reverse voltage probably killed that module, TBH

 

Uhm, so can I check the module?

[Vins213]

The 30a fuse is gone again after I have switched down the two rear windows (old switcher, tomorrow I will receive the new one)

[Vins213]

New switcher installed, works everything...but not the mod, how can I check if it is dead or if I have joint everything correctly?

[flash22]

did you change the closer module it killed the window switch so likely killed that too

to test, wind the window down, get out of the car, press and hold the lock button on the fob for 5-10 seconds

 

 

[Vins213]

55 minutes ago, flash22 said:

did you change the closer module it killed the window switch so likely killed that too

to test, wind the window down, get out of the car, press and hold the lock button on the fob for 5-10 seconds

 

 

I have changed the entire master switch assembly (H1), the window (or the windows) doesn't go up even if I press and hold the lock button for 10s

My colors inside the door for the L/UL

 

This the scheme I have followed:

 

 

 

 

[flash22]

 Door lock - Remove the green from pin 4

with a window down, doors closed, ignition off, ground the Green/black

[Vins213]

51 minutes ago, flash22 said:

 Door lock - Remove the green from pin 4

with a window down, doors closed, ignition off, ground the Green/black

So I have to connect the Green/black to the ground of the door? There is a ground point with a B/W wire on the bottom of the door

[flash22]

just for testing only - you only need to ground it for 5-10 seconds

[Vins213]

8 minutes ago, flash22 said:

just for testing only - you only need to ground it for 5-10 seconds

Ok, so I can pin the green/black to the ground of the door and disconnect the green from pin4

[flash22]

the green/black is a negative trigger you just have to ground it for 5-10 seconds - eg. Touch the wire to a ground to simulate a lock signal

[Vins213]

9 hours ago, flash22 said:

the green/black is a negative trigger you just have to ground it for 5-10 seconds - eg. Touch the wire to a ground to simulate a lock signal

Ok, I'll try in minutes...after that what can I see? What can I do?

[Vins213]

10 hours ago, flash22 said:

the green/black is a negative trigger you just have to ground it for 5-10 seconds - eg. Touch the wire to a ground to simulate a lock signal

Nothing happened...cutted the green from the yellow, grounded the green/black in the spot in the photo for 10s, faked a door close pushing the door button