PHEV... Hybrid drivetrain has stopped (working)

[philip42h]

Do you guys know what mode your car is in when preconditioning etc.? I can't see any need for the PHEV to charge the auxiliary Battery while charging normally - the HEV obviously doesn't, and not doing so doesn't cause any real problem. There's an awful lot of paranoia about! But, obviously, if the car is set to a 'mode' where it places an additional load on the 12v system then it would be 'madness' not to keep the 12v Battery topped up (else you could get into the situation where the car is nice and warm but won't go into Ready mode!)

But we've got into topic drift here - while there is an "auxiliary Battery capacity" issue of the RAv4 hybrid (plugin or not) it is not a good hypothesis as an explanation for the experience Nick reported at the start of this thread. It isn't supported by any of the reported facts, and is actively contradicted by the level of recent use and the simple fact that the car goes happily into Ready mode.

A better hypothesis might be that the 'car' got confused by the shift pattern between Drive and Reverse and what it wanted to do with  the ICE and hybrid drivetrain - so it sulked and refused to play in order to protect the transmission / drivetrain. And then in keeping with many good software faults, switching off, counting ten slowly and starting again resolved the confusion making everything right again. That at least appears to fit the reported facts - but it's only an alternative hypothesis (aka 'plausible' guess).

[Barney7]

I suspect this is a software glitch as you left it for a while a switched it back on it effectively rebooted.

I have a LEVC electric/ range extender taxi  basically it’s a Volvo XC90 and software glitches are common place, we simply lock the vehicle leave it about a minute for the system to power down then restart, this cures 99% of any issues.

 

[ernieb]

Control-alt-delete or switch the power off and back on again.

[TonyHSD]

Funny but true. The cars these days are tablets on wheels 😂🛞🖥

[DavidinDerbyshire]

• Very basic and possibly naive point but was your door not properly closed so the car went into safe mode...and cleared itself when you got out and later came back and closed the door properly?    

[Lawnmowerman]

10 hours ago, ernieb said:

Control-alt-delete or switch the power off and back on again.

Seemed to work for nuclear submarines according to the advert.🤪

[ernieb]

It seems to work often for Formula 1 cars as well based on the the number of times that instruction is given to the drivers.

As an side I use a PowerTXT device that remotely monitors the mains via a plug with a SIM, it sends a text if the power fails and then again when it’s restored. However, it can also be programmed via a text to power cycle so any connected equipment can be switched on and off. My understanding based on the advertising is that it’s used by many of the of the supply companies to reset equipment with over an 80% success rate in clearing faults.

[Nick72]

On 6/30/2022 at 10:51 AM, DavidinDerbyshire said:

• Very basic and possibly naive point but was your door not properly closed so the car went into safe mode...and cleared itself when you got out and later came back and closed the door properly?    

Nope. Doors definitely shut. Car gets annoyed in other ways if you open the door or it isn't closed properly. 

 

If so I would have expected a message like, shut the door you idiot human as opposed to hybrid drivetrain has stopped. 

 

Note I was driving the car successfully before it essentially and suddenly stopped and then came up with the dungeon master message.

[Nick72]

16 hours ago, ernieb said:

It seems to work often for Formula 1 cars as well based on the the number of times that instruction is given to the drivers.

As an side I use a PowerTXT device that remotely monitors the mains via a plug with a SIM, it sends a text if the power fails and then again when it’s restored. However, it can also be programmed via a text to power cycle so any connected equipment can be switched on and off. My understanding based on the advertising is that it’s used by many of the of the supply companies to reset equipment with over an 80% success rate in clearing faults.

Sold. I want one. Where did you get it Ernie. My Panasonic TV is awesome but now and again it locks up in one of the apps like prime or Netflix. Only fix is to cycle the power with a 5 second wait so the capacitors can discharge. But I just hate having to get off the sofa in my slouch. I'd sooner just cycle the plug socket from my command module tricorder (smartphone).

[ernieb]

You’d probably be better off with a smart plug rather than a PowerTXT which is more suited to working at a remote location.

[DavidinDerbyshire]

On 7/2/2022 at 12:23 AM, Nick72 said:

I'd sooner just cycle the plug socket from my command module tricorder (smartphone).

In a bid to beat the energy crisis and huge bills I have invested in several smartplugs, One turns all my office stuff off (two laptops, printer, tv on standby, chargers etc). My smart meter shows that when I use my smartphone either by timer or press button command I can save as much as 40 pence per day when I am away from home or not using the office....I was shocked to find out how much power I was wasting. The smartplugs (as low as £9 each in a multi-buy) will soon be paid for at that rate. Same applies in the lounge with TV and wall lamps. I just wish I could cut the cost of the fridge-freezer.  (But the really heavy is the standing charges on both gas and electricity....absolute rip-off.)

[ernieb]

19 minutes ago, DavidinDerbyshire said:

In a bid to beat the energy crisis and huge bills I have invested in several smartplugs, One turns all my office stuff off (two laptops, printer, tv on standby, chargers etc). My smart meter shows that when I use my smartphone either by timer or press button command I can save as much as 40 pence per day when I am away from home or not using the office....I was shocked to find out how much power I was wasting. The smartplugs (as low as £9 each in a multi-buy) will soon be paid for at that rate. Same applies in the lounge with TV and wall lamps. I just wish I could cut the cost of the fridge-freezer.  (But the really heavy is the standing charges on both gas and electricity....absolute rip-off.)

Off Topic:

I was looking at this the other day and found an interesting article on the Ideal Home web site. Not as much as I’d have expected. At 20p per kWh

An example F-rated 70/30 287-litre fridge freezer uses 275 kWh per year, making its annual running costs £55.

While an example E-rated 70/30 267-litre fridge freezer uses 232 kWh a year, resulting in running costs of £46.40.

Upgrade to an example D-rated 70/30 294-litre fridge freezer and its usage is 156 kWh a year, costing just £31.20 to run annually.

It's worth knowing that energy ratings changed on December 1, 2021. That's because, under the old system, appliances were increasingly given A+, A++ and A+++ ratings as technology improved, which was confusing for customers. So in 2021, the system was recalibrated, and the ratings given from A to G.

As a guide, products that were previously A+ in 2020, are now likely to be rated F or G. A++ is now classified as D or E, and A+++ translates to a B or C rating.