Auris Hybrid 2011 - new owner - maintenance and improvements...

[TonyHSD]

10 minutes ago, AisinW said:

Does it fit only for Auris1 pre 2013?  is there any similar filter for the Auris 2013-newer?  I only find screen type filter, not paper. 

There are screen types filter for your car only. For previous gen perhaps not available even screen one, but the screen filter only stops hair getting in, the dust is still going into the fan blades easily. As long as interior is kept clean no worries about filters if the car hasn’t got one. 👍

[mtl]

18 hours ago, AisinW said:

Thanks for the clarification. It confimed my hypothesis that the carbon build up in EGR and intake manifolds is related directly with the oil consumption issue.  The battery is the least issues in UK weather. If you are in Slovenia, park the car in the garage.  I recommend we change the oil max at 10k miles/1 year/15k km with high quality oil like certified 508/509 0w-20 (Ravenol, Shell, Total, Castrol, Manol 7722) or Toyota Genuine Oil/Mobil1 ESP X2.  Not all 0w-20 are the same and most oil with VW 508/509 certification has much lower pouring temperature ~ -50 C which means they are very good base oil or probably high % of PAO instead of pure HC synthetic.   For instance, Mannol 0w-20 7918 is a half price of 7722 (VW 508/509) certified.  It could be because of the license fee but also different stock base.  PAO is true synthetic meanwhile HC /group III is not, it depends on the source of the quality of the crude oil. 

This video showed the result from long interval 10k miles/OCI at around 200k miles.  He mentioned that around 100k miles is when it starts burning oil.   It burns oil 1-2L per 1000 miles even with dealership maintenance.  Apparently in USA, most Toyota dealership does not use Toyota Oil but the cheapest they can get the offer from.  He recommends strick 5k miles/6 months interval with decent oil instead of boutique oil 1 year interval. 

 

Thx for your input.

The car is mainly parked in a garage, but sadly this is not possible all the time. So I have taken a few preventive measures (I do not know if they really help, but I feel better :)). I have installed privacy shades at the back and wind deflectors so that every time the car is left in the sun, both front windows remain open for cca. 1 cm, which gets the really hot air out. So this should lower the inside temperature in the car. And first test I think it works. It is still hot, but not as hot as it would be with windows closed and no privacy shades.

I am still on the search for BEST oil for this engine. I have read that Mobile is the choice to go. Any suggestions?

I am really not an advocate for 5.000miles/half a year of oil change. I mean that is crazy. Because for example if you are only using the car for short city driving where there is a lot of heat/cool down cycles, accelerating/braking, etc. that will definitely put much more stress on the oil in comparison with someone that is driving 50miles one way on cruise control on the highway. That is the best possible option for the engine wear and oil wear, because there are two heat cycles per day all the rest the oil and engine work on optimal temperature. So, I would say yes, definitelly change the oil on 5.000miles or even less if you do first option. But changing at that interval for someone that is doing only the second type of driving is for me a waste of money and unnecessary pollution. Also half a year change? Why with todays syntetic oils? I do not get it.
And one other thing: here in Europe for example VW offers variable service interval of 30.000km (almost 19.000 miles). In Slovenia a looooooot of cars are imported used with such service history and there are NO problems with the engines/pistons, etc. So there is a Toyota problem either with engineering or something else that with half of the service interval such problems occur. It could be maybe related also with the eco oil ''soup'' of 0W-20 that is recommmended to get that 1-2% lower consumption. Because other manufacturers usually use 0w-30 oil which protects the car much better in hot operating conditions.

I will stick with 9.000 miles service interval, but the car is used only for longer highway drives at really moderate engine power. Usually drives with CC at 95km/h. But I do always once a drive when it is at operating temperature do a full kick down to rev to the limiter so that all the stuff is burned out :). My other car is Octavia diesel and before it I had two Skodas diesel, all serviced at 15.000km service interval with BEST oil (Motul). Two were sold with 280.000km without any engine problems or burning the oil. Current Octavia is at 240.000km, no problems.

And final thing regarding The Car Care Nut video: I have watched his videos and kudos for them. Although I do not agree with his oil change replacement, maybe for someone is a good option. But, there is some bull**** in exactly this video that you have linked. His statement: oil is not put in to the nature it is recycled. So what if it is recycled? So much energy, oil was used for manufacturing of the oil, transporting it and than recycling it. That is a waste of resources and the fact that it is recycled does not change that if it is unnecessary. Also one other thing: go watch his videos when he was still working at Toyota dealership. He did gave good advices, but he did not even once disclosed that Toyota dealerships use cheap oil (is maybe this a factor of burning oil issue?), which for me is a very important info. Huh, now when he has his own shop, that is a very loud message from him. Huh...
Btw. I do not know how is in USA, but in Slovenia Toyota dealership would lose license if they would do that.

 

[AisinW]

Well, this is how we are in USA.  Often dealership send us a coupon for $10 or $20 oil change. Not sure how can they make money with it but the idea is bringing our car there and they can look for potential repair with high cost bill. 

Honestly, 5k miles/6 months interval is for people who rarely drive in highway. Highway drive has very minimum wear to the engine. Cold starts and long idling is the worst scenario for any engine oil. CarCareNut lives in Chicago with very cold and long winter, most of his costumer do a short trip and never allow engine to reach optimum temperature.  Condensation from rich mixture in cold starts degrade oil rapidly. 

It is not the 0W-20 problem, but even with 5W-30. Actually Toyota has much less oil consumption issue since using synthetic 0W-20. Camry 2.4L 2007-2009, Corolla 1998-2001 are known for oil drinker with 5W-30. 

Don't compare German post-2008 cars with claiming 2 years/20k miles marketing gimmick maintenance. Because they are design to be disposable after warranty expired.  They claimed 1L/1000 miles is "Normal". 

The problem that CarCareNut pointed out is for the mindset of 200k miles or beyond.  My last 3 Toyotas have more than 200k miles, and only Prius 06 5W-30 consumed oil 0.5L per 5k miles.  My Sienna 04 and Camry 05 do not consume any oil even after 200k miles.  They are all have 5k miles/6 months interval by handbook manual. 

Newer Toyota in USA and Europe both are 10k miles/1 year interval, but if you read carefully, it is only for normal driving, not cold starts, city traffict, dusty area, or towing. 

My opinion, Ravenol and Amsoil make the best PAO oil for 0W-20.  But from https://www.ato24.de/de/blog/vergleich-0w-20-motoroel/ almost all brands with VW 508/509 certification contains high amount of PAO.  I think you are fine with 10k miles/1 year interval with any of those oil. I found VW 508/509 genuine oil is cheap enough. About 40 euros per 5L online. Cheaper and probably better than Toyota Genuine Oil because of huge market size of VAG. 

[TonyHSD]

There we go today I have done my quarterly oil change after traveled total of  9471 miles exactly 3 months from the last change date. The oil looked dark but nothing excessive, I had used wynns friction modifier, very nice additive half way through, makes the oil as good as new 👌. STP engine flush, also a good stuff, mann oil filter and blueprint cabin filter, the air filter still good at 20k miles, therefore I left it for the next service. Overall check underneath, suspension, tyres, brakes all its fine. Here some photos. Oil filter housing easily undone using small 3/8 drive. 

[AisinW]

Thanks for sharing. I still do not believe in additives or engine flush product (harsh chemical).   I believe straight good 0W-20 oil has excellent additives and high quality base stock.   I attached my oil color reading from dipstick at 0 miles and 6k miles/8 months.  The old oil is Mannol 7918 (goldish), $34 for 10 L and the new one is Mannol 7722 0w-20 (bluish).  I only have 130k km or 80k miles and no oil consumption with 10k miles interval in the past 6 years.   At 6k miles, Cheap $3.4 per L oil is still decent, the oil filter is very clean too.  I did 6k miles interval with Mannol 7918 just because I am wondering why it is so cheap. Mannol confirmed that all their oil are Semisynthetic, none of them is Full synthetic/PAO like Ravenol. But it is the same as other bigger name like Castrol, Shell, Motul, etc. HC synthetic with a little bit of PAO and Ester.  

[TonyHSD]

1 hour ago, AisinW said:

Thanks for sharing. I still do not believe in additives or engine flush product (harsh chemical).   I believe straight good 0W-20 oil has excellent additives and high quality base stock.   I attached my oil color reading from dipstick at 0 miles and 6k miles/8 months.  The old oil is Mannol 7918 (goldish), $34 for 10 L and the new one is Mannol 7722 0w-20 (bluish).  I only have 130k km or 80k miles and no oil consumption with 10k miles interval in the past 6 years.   At 6k miles, Cheap $3.4 per L oil is still decent, the oil filter is very clean too.  I did 6k miles interval with Mannol 7918 just because I am wondering why it is so cheap. Mannol confirmed that all their oil are Semisynthetic, none of them is Full synthetic/PAO like Ravenol. But it is the same as other bigger name like Castrol, Shell, Motul, etc. HC synthetic with a little bit of PAO and Ester.  

I like to experiment and tbh I found some additives really helpful and I tend to use them ever since. Oil is Petronas 0w20, when my car was newer at 7 years old and 50k miles I started to use Petronas as it was on good price and it’s still plus when I first had it I went on Euro trip 6000 miles in 3 weeks during heatwave 40C° Germany and Austria were on record high temp at the time , then Romania and Bulgaria the same hot. The car didn’t burn oil at all 👌 , since then I believe the oil is good quality and I keep using it. Wynns additives helped previously fix an issue with pulsating under hard acceleration, and I do like this brand, recommended few times and people come back with positive results. 
You engine oil looks cleaner definitely, perhaps lower mileage and less abuse  helps a bit, I drive my car relaxed and rarely to the maximum power however sometimes I tend to drive for hours non stop up and down the uk motorways.  Sometimes I have to keep the car in ready mode for hours too, very unhealthy for the engine and oil, but healthier for me, winter nights are cold here. Also my car gets at least 4-5 warming up and cooling cycles per night as I don’t only drive but also do other work and the car seats and wait for me, not like taxis keep driving, therefore it’s long distance but it’s not so easy life. And yes my car is burning oil, around 900ml per 10000 miles.  😂👍

[Devon Aygo]

On 8/3/2022 at 3:16 PM, AisinW said:

Does it fit only for Auris1 pre 2013?  is there any similar filter for the Auris 2013-newer?  I only find screen type filter, not paper. 

The filter part number above is for Mk1 Auris HSD for a MK2 up to April 2014 build when an integrated filter became standard fit use part number G92DH-12010

[mtl]

On 8/4/2022 at 1:44 PM, AisinW said:

Well, this is how we are in USA.  Often dealership send us a coupon for $10 or $20 oil change. Not sure how can they make money with it but the idea is bringing our car there and they can look for potential repair with high cost bill.

Well, that is really crazy. We do not have such bull**** offers, where basically only the oil costs more.

On 8/4/2022 at 1:44 PM, AisinW said:

Honestly, 5k miles/6 months interval is for people who rarely drive in highway. Highway drive has very minimum wear to the engine. Cold starts and long idling is the worst scenario for any engine oil. CarCareNut lives in Chicago with very cold and long winter, most of his costumer do a short trip and never allow engine to reach optimum temperature.  Condensation from rich mixture in cold starts degrade oil rapidly. 

The problem that CarCareNut pointed out is for the mindset of 200k miles or beyond.  My last 3 Toyotas have more than 200k miles, and only Prius 06 5W-30 consumed oil 0.5L per 5k miles.  My Sienna 04 and Camry 05 do not consume any oil even after 200k miles.  They are all have 5k miles/6 months interval by handbook manual. 

Newer Toyota in USA and Europe both are 10k miles/1 year interval, but if you read carefully, it is only for normal driving, not cold starts, city traffict, dusty area, or towing.

I do get about the 200k miles. But if this is related only to his location and the use of his clients, he should have mentioned that of course 5k/6 months is for those who use it like that, not for all. And as I have said, I agree with the shorten service interval for such use. Although the video that you have linked: it was a car used 80 miles (if I remember correctly) per day. That is basically the best possible option and the problem occured. Either the oil was really cheap and bad or they didn't even replace it, but just charged the customer. If not that, then according to my opinion that means that there is a problem with the engineering part of the engine.

And I must stress again that here in Europe Toyota has problem with oil consumption also on other engines. For example 1.33 litre engines in Yaris cars. And that is not after 200.000 miles, but even before 100.000km, which is cca. 65.000 miles? So there is a problem and I doubt it is because of long oil change intervals. And since Toyota offers 5 year warranty all these cars are serviced at Toyota delaers.

On 8/4/2022 at 1:44 PM, AisinW said:

Don't compare German post-2008 cars with claiming 2 years/20k miles marketing gimmick maintenance. Because they are design to be disposable after warranty expired.  They claimed 1L/1000 miles is "Normal". 

Not really. There are many post 2008 cars here with mileage of more than 200.000 and they are driving without mayor problems. No oil consumption. There are some other problems :). But you must have in mind that EU cars are usually different from US cars. Here VW is not the cheap alternative, it is a high mid car. I am aware of only one oil consumption problem of 1.4TSI engine in newer cars, which was (after a long fight with VW importer) replaced under the warranty. Some older engines had oil consumption problems (also 1.4TSI) besides other problems.

The claimed oil consumption from manufacturer is there only to protect them from this. But check the owners manual of your Toyota and be astonished. In owners manual of my Auris it is stated that 1l/1000km is normal.😓

On 8/4/2022 at 1:44 PM, AisinW said:

My opinion, Ravenol and Amsoil make the best PAO oil for 0W-20.  But from https://www.ato24.de/de/blog/vergleich-0w-20-motoroel/ almost all brands with VW 508/509 certification contains high amount of PAO.  I think you are fine with 10k miles/1 year interval with any of those oil. I found VW 508/509 genuine oil is cheap enough. About 40 euros per 5L online. Cheaper and probably better than Toyota Genuine Oil because of huge market size of VAG. 

Ravenol and Amsoil we do not get here.
I would like to use Motul, but it does not spec any standards:
https://www.motul.com/fr/en/products/hybrid-0w20

Though it is fully synthetic. I am not comfortable using VW speced oil in a Toyota...

What standards are required for the oil from Toyota to be used in 3rd generation Hybrid system?

[mtl]

On 8/4/2022 at 2:19 PM, TonyHSD said:

There we go today I have done my quarterly oil change after traveled total of  9471 miles exactly 3 months from the last change date. The oil looked dark but nothing excessive, I had used wynns friction modifier, very nice additive half way through, makes the oil as good as new 👌. STP engine flush, also a good stuff, Mann oil filter and blueprint cabin filter, the air filter still good at 20k miles, therefore I left it for the next service. Overall check underneath, suspension, tyres, brakes all its fine. Here some photos. Oil filter housing easily undone using small 3/8 drive. 

Huh, you are really doing some serious mileage there :). And you car has definitelly already done its job with such a mileage.

[AisinW]

In Europe,  only with minimum 70% PAO can put full synthetic on the bottle.   If not,  they only put synthetic or HC synthetic.  Not all ravenol is fully PAO like 0W-20 HSE but others (DFE, VSE, ECS) are fully synthetic.  Price difference is also noticeable.  Motul, Total, Mobil1, Shell, Liquimoly, Castrol Edge, Petronas, Mannol 7722 etc are all fine oil.  

VW/Porsche Specs are always more expensive than Asian/American spec. Such as Liquimoly Asian vs 508/509, Mannol 7722 vs 7918, Castrol edge LL IV vs V (Volvo).   That makes me believe VW long life specs are better with up to 30k km/2 years possible interval under ideal condition, 15k km harsh condition.  Asian only 15k km under ideal condition and 8k km harsh condition.  It is just my hypothesis.

I personally believe that 15k km oil change interval is fine if it does not consume any oil.  Once it starts consume more than 1/4 L per 15k km or 10k miles,  i will switch to 8- 10k km and use decent certified oil like Mannol 7722, Total Quartz, Motul, or Mobil1 X2. 

From oil forum, newest Toyota Oil has much lower pouring temperature close to -50C and 6× molybdenum contents.

https://oil-club.de/index.php?thread/3186-toyota-motor-oil-0w-20-08880-12205/

vs https://oil-club.de/index.php?thread/512-toyota-0w-20-api-sn-08880-10505/

The low pouring temp means better stock base or more PAO contents like newest Mobil 1 X2. https://oil-club.de/index.php?thread/5293-mobil-1-0w-20-api-sn-ilsac-gf-5-dexos1-gen2/

If it is sold in US market, everyone will put full synthetic label because group III or HC synthetic is considered to be synthetic too.

Although mobil1 used better molybdenum compound, not simple MoS2 and need only 100ppm instead of 700ppm. 

I just don't like to have oil consumption issues, i drive only about  15 k km per year and €30 4.2L more oil per year is fine. Only €300 more per 10 years.   

CarCareNut has his own experience as toyota mechanics,  2 others Video on oil consumption is related to Uber like drivers including endoscopy video. He recommends engine flush if it is not too bad yet. Engine flush product is not good unless we have sludge or heavy oil consumption to dislodge piston rings but harmful to rubber seals.

[mtl]

Interesting: I have checked the Mobil oil selector and for this engine it does not state any engine oil as compatible. Only brake fluid and ATF oil.

https://www.mobil.co.uk/en-gb/recommendations?query=api/v1/en-GB/khws/equipment/FawEcWbIh/1/b2c

 

[AisinW]

For ATF, just buy genuine Toyota WS oil from any Toyota dealership. It is about €40. We can buy it from ATO24.de too.  Alternative from Aisin ATF6+ is also cover WS oil. Ravenol WS is also available as aftermarket but it cost more than Toyota WS. Mobil makes Toyota WS but not sold outside Toyota brands. I changed mine at 100k km with Ravenol WS, it works fine. I used Valvoline Maxlife Dex/Merc in the past 10 years on my Nissan, Toyota, and Honda, it costs only $22 for 4 L in Walmart. 

[mtl]

Thx, for ATF I always use manufacturer oil.

Huh, tried for Prius and again for Auris and now it shows Mobil 1™ ESP X2 0W-20:
https://www.mobil.co.uk/en-gb/b2b-product-recommendation?query=api/v1/en-GB/khws/equipment/FawEcWbIh/1/b2b

[TonyHSD]

6 hours ago, mtl said:

Huh, you are really doing some serious mileage there :). And you car has definitelly already done its job with such a mileage.

Hi,

my car hasn’t already done anything except been run in properly 😂,

200000 miles for these cars is just the beginning of their journey 🚘🛣

Toyota UK gives car owners stickers for reaching milestones 150, 200 and then 300k miles. I have collected only two of these and until I have received the third one mission is not completed. 
To date I have only changed few things: rear springs, brakes, wheel bearings, and a new set of alloy wheels, anything else is still original from 2010. Only regular 10k miles service. 👍

For your engine oil if you don’t drive as much as myself you probably be better of buying and using Original Toyota Engine Oil 0w20 , this oil it’s made by Mobil but it’s not X2 spec, it’s different A5 . 

[AisinW]

Toyota 0w-20 in Europe is made by Mobil with API SN or ILSAC 5 specs and updated oil  is SP or ILSAC 6A similar to european ACEA C5. It is only relevant with turbo engines with low rpm preignition problem.  Any 0w-20 with a good base oil will do. 

TonyHSD 2010 2zr-fxe is unique. The engine has normal minimal wear 0.1L oil consumption per 1k miles. Majority 2010-2011 Prius owners in USA had oil consumption, head gasket, EGR, catalytic converter, etc. at around 180k miles or 300k km.  I am not sure why we have tons of posts in USA. It could be just large samples, the use of  mandatory E10 since 2008, regular AKI 87 fuel or RON 91. Or just Americans do not care their cars as much as European in maintenance. But if I own 2010-2014 2ZR-FXE, I will be more careful watching oil consumption issues. In 2015, Toyota updated piston and piston rings.

https://m.carcomplaints.com/Toyota/Prius/

Some owners use cheap quicklube shop that use non synthetic oil for 1 year. With coupon, typically Americans pay $25-35 for oil change. Such as

 https://www.jiffylube.com/coupons

https://www.tiresplus.com/offers/#

I am not sure how these shops make money from oil change $27 including filter up to 5L. 

[mtl]

On 8/9/2022 at 4:38 PM, AisinW said:

Some owners use cheap quicklube shop that use non synthetic oil for 1 year. With coupon, typically Americans pay $25-35 for oil change. Such as

 https://www.jiffylube.com/coupons

https://www.tiresplus.com/offers/#

I am not sure how these shops make money from oil change $27 including filter up to 5L. 

I would say that this definitelly can be an important factor that could be a cause of the oil consumption...

[Guest]

On 7/10/2022 at 1:07 PM, TonyHSD said:

Lol, lots of sand indeed

@mtl, Enjoy your dune buggy 🙂

This car is beautiful, nice work!

[mtl]

Thx.

It is wife's car and she drives it mainly and she loves it. Me, not so much ;). I am more sporty car driver and I have Octavia with upgraded suspension. Though the Auris was bought for a second cheap and reliable commuter car, so that is the only thing expected from it. But after thorough cleaning/detailing and all the upgrades I must say that I do like the look of it ;). And I like the engine/transmission combination for normal driving. Now, I have a problem in city driving and on the traffic lights that the sound of the engine in my Octavia annoys me. Lool.

For weekend joy I have Audi A2 :). Now that is a car that puts a smile on my face...

[mtl]

On 8/9/2022 at 4:38 PM, AisinW said:

Toyota 0w-20 in Europe is made by Mobil with API SN or ILSAC 5 specs and updated oil  is SP or ILSAC 6A similar to european ACEA C5. It is only relevant with turbo engines with low rpm preignition problem.  Any 0w-20 with a good base oil will do.

I am still struggling a little bit with the best engine oil. With VAG cars that I had in the past, I just took a look at the required VAG standard, went to Motul web site and select the best oil that met that standard. With Toyota I am still confused.

I am able to get Toyota genuine 0W-20 08880-83885 oil (https://toyotadirectparts.co.uk/?attachment_id=158452) for the same price as Mobil 1 ESP X2 0W-20 (Mobil 1™ ESP x2 0W-20), which is fully synthetic. If I understand correctly Mobil 1 oil is better and 100% compatible with Prius 3 engine, so it is a better choice?
I also have an option to get MOTUL HYBRID 0W-20 (MOTUL HYBRID 0W-20 - Motul) which is slightly more expensive. Motul is my preferred choice since I use it on all other cars. As far as I have found out both Motul and Mobil 1 meet API SP standard, but I cannot find which standard does Toyota require. Is this the SP? So, I could just compare.

Added later: after some more research I have found a photo of the Toyota oil and there are two standards stated at the back: ILSAC GF-5, API SN PLUS (I now see that you have already stated that in your answer ;)). So basically Mobile 1 should be a safe bet since it is stated on the specs page.

 

[TonyHSD]

For these engines pretty much all 0w20 oils are suitable, just buy the one you like. I am using petronas syntium 0w20 since 2016, its been good oil for me on competitive price and widely available in uk. These days I can see even car parts and oils are on short supply therefore buy for two services in advance and some extra filters. I did so and I am covered for my next 3 services. 👌

[mtl]

4 hours ago, TonyHSD said:

For these engines pretty much all 0w20 oils are suitable, just buy the one you like. I am using petronas syntium 0w20 since 2016, its been good oil for me on competitive price and widely available in uk. These days I can see even car parts and oils are on short supply therefore buy for two services in advance and some extra filters. I did so and I am covered for my next 3 services. 👌

I am just putting together all the parts needed for this and I also usually order for at least 2 services to save on postage costs :). I have checked with the Toyota service and it looks like the gearbox fluid and spark plugs were not yet replaced😡, even though the car was serviced by them and both should be already replaced. So I plan to do this at 150.000km, together with coolant fluid. And after that only normal service items.

Do you know which spark plugs were from factory fitted? NGK? I get different models stated on different sites. On NGK site I get ILKAR7B11, but on autodoc it states DF6H-11B. For factory part nr. I got two part nr. 90919-01253, 90919-01275.

[TonyHSD]

59 minutes ago, mtl said:

I am just putting together all the parts needed for this and I also usually order for at least 2 services to save on postage costs :). I have checked with the Toyota service and it looks like the gearbox fluid and spark plugs were not yet replaced😡, even though the car was serviced by them and both should be already replaced. So I plan to do this at 150.000km, together with coolant fluid. And after that only normal service items.

Do you know which spark plugs were from factory fitted? NGK? I get different models stated on different sites. On NGK site I get ILKAR7B11, but on autodoc it states DF6H-11B. For factory part nr. I got two part nr. 90919-01253, 90919-01275.

The second number and best to stick with them. If you buy them from place different from main dealer make sure its a reputable seller and the parts are real because there are too many fakes and some look very much like real. 

Here the exact plugs u need https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254376840140

[AisinW]

1 hour ago, mtl said:

I am just putting together all the parts needed for this and I also usually order for at least 2 services to save on postage costs :). I have checked with the Toyota service and it looks like the gearbox fluid and spark plugs were not yet replaced😡, even though the car was serviced by them and both should be already replaced. So I plan to do this at 150.000km, together with coolant fluid. And after that only normal service items.

Do you know which spark plugs were from factory fitted? NGK? I get different models stated on different sites. On NGK site I get ILKAR7B11, but on autodoc it states DF6H-11B. For factory part nr. I got two part nr. 90919-01253, 90919-01275.

You should replace ATF WS fluid every 100-160k km. Just drain and refill 3.4L fluid. For spark plugs you can either use Denso Iridium SC16HR11 or Iridium IXEH20TT and the actual interval by Denso is 200k km, european manual said 90-100k km, USA and Denso said 200k km or 120k miles. I will replace mine at 200k km with IXEH20TT which is the most modern design that becomes standard in all newer Corolla 1.8L. I opened mine at 100k km, everything looks perfect and no noticeable gap wear, so I cleaned and put them back. Always buy Denso sparkplugs from reputable dealer, Autodoc is also good although the shipping may take time. Local national chain stores are still the best. Avoid Toyota parts if they are not actual real toyota dealership with physical address and phone number. It is better to get the OEM directly which is Denso and sold at often much cheaper price. The same thing with Aisin waterpump, AC Denso parts, and Aisin suspension parts. 

 

[mtl]

In my service book it is stated for spark plugs to replace every 90.000km and for transmission fluid every 60.000 or 4 years.
For coolant is first at 150.000 for the engine and 240.000 for inverter, after that every 100.000 km. There is also item container with activated coal to be replaced every 2 years or 45.000 km. Is this connected with EVAP system?

[AisinW]

10 hours ago, mtl said:

In my service book it is stated for spark plugs to replace every 90.000km and for transmission fluid every 60.000 or 4 years.
For coolant is first at 150.000 for the engine and 240.000 for inverter, after that every 100.000 km. There is also item container with activated coal to be replaced every 2 years or 45.000 km. Is this connected with EVAP system?

It is true, european manual recommends 1/2 time  just because 200k km may take a long time here. The EVAP never need to be replaced if we never overfill the fuel and have check engine light about EVAP. Only Aygo need EVAP regular changes.  The coolant is every 7 years 150k km for engine and probably 200k+ km for inverter. Always use original super long life coolant (pink) or Aisin coolant (blue). It contains phospate, not the same as european cars. 

I change brake fluid only when it gets dark or water contains above 2% or 5 years. The european manual said 2 years (overkill). Even after 5 years/110k km, the water contamination is still below 2% and still very clear amber color. Any cheap tester (black pen) from Autostore or amazon/eBay are actually very accurate within 1% accuracy. 

Check the brake slide pins every 5 years (14mm front, 13 mm back), and add some silicon grease on it. Some Corolla 2.0L develop classic 3rd gen frozen rear brake pin bolt, adding silicon lube fix it. Clean the cabin filter annually, you can replace or wash it with laundry detergent (only Bosch and Denso) and  HV Battery intake at the rear seat too.  The engine filter has 4 years interval or 60k km under normal condition. Denso, Blue print, Bosch, Mahle, Wix/Filtron are great. Don't use KNN filter, it allows more dirt in. 

Rear wiper insert Windscreen wiper Replacement... https://www.amazon.de/dp/B098L7YLRR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share is my solution for fragile easily torn rear wiper. Front wiper from Bosch, Denso, or Michelin are great, no insert is available.  

maintenanceAurisTS2016.pdf