Auris Hybrid 2011 - new owner - maintenance and improvements...

[mtl]

Thx for this. Well this is a total mess. I really do not get it that Toyota puts different distances on different documents.
I am really interested to see in which state the transmission fluid will be.

[AisinW]

31 minutes ago, mtl said:

Thx for this. Well this is a total mess. I really do not get it that Toyota puts different distances on different documents.
I am really interested to see in which state the transmission fluid will be.

The WS fluid gets dark very quickly but it does not mean bad, just the dye is dark red when it is new and black after only few thousands miles. It has no sparkling stuff, just pure dark fluid after 120t km.  

I followed what actually OEM supplier said. ATF is every 100-160k km by Aisin or ZF said instead of lifetime manufacturer claim. Sparkplugs Denso Iridium 200k km, coolant 5-7 years 150k km. Brake fluid 5 years (recommended 3 years in non hybrid) is more than excellent. 2 years is too often, i prefer to use my time for more engine oil changes.

Things need regular visual inspection: control arms rubber bushings, stabilizer links and bushings, brake disc wear pattern, rust, air filter, and HV air duct, shocks and struts.

Things never need replacements: ball joints.

I only concern about engine oil change since Toyota engines may consume oil if we do not use high quality oil or replace every 10k km or 6k miles under severe condition. 

 

 

 

 

[mtl]

I have another question regarding coolant fluid.
Huh, I have checked and here in Slovenia 1l costs 17 EUR, which means that I would need to spend 170 EUR for 10l of coolant fluid (7,2 engine + 2.1 inverter). I have checked and alternative manufacturers (Febi for example) the cost would be 60 EUR. I will buy the original Toyota coolant, since I have read everywhere to use only original Toyota coolant, but are there any other REPUTABLE suppliers of genuine Toyota coolant in Europe?
Because this has really shocked me. I was paying 30 EUR for a QUALITY coolant for my Skoda car.

If I need to pay so much, I will just replace the coolant on engine part, since it is now due at 150.000km and I will replace the inverter part at 240.000 as it is stated in the maintenance schedule.

[TonyHSD]

50 minutes ago, mtl said:

I have another question regarding coolant fluid.
Huh, I have checked and here in Slovenia 1l costs 17 EUR, which means that I would need to spend 170 EUR for 10l of coolant fluid (7,2 engine + 2.1 inverter). I have checked and alternative manufacturers (Febi for example) the cost would be 60 EUR. I will buy the original Toyota coolant, since I have read everywhere to use only original Toyota coolant, but are there any other REPUTABLE suppliers of genuine Toyota coolant in Europe?
Because this has really shocked me. I was paying 30 EUR for a QUALITY coolant for my Skoda car.

If I need to pay so much, I will just replace the coolant on engine part, since it is now due at 150.000km and I will replace the inverter part at 240.000 as it is stated in the maintenance schedule.

Best to change in both at that age now. Engine coolant max out is 5ltr and inverter max out is 2ltr, basically 7ltr will be just fine but Toyota oem one comes in 5ltr package ready mix is the best. Here you can ask these guys to post to your country or organise postage yourself. I buy from them https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360617583012?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=bL3g3WGPTf2&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=p34UK1z2T4m&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Changing the engine coolant no need to remove the plastic cover under engine, just find clear tube 9mm id long around 20-30cm and empty 5l container. 👍

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222789645286?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=hZPNLKrrSXq&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=p34UK1z2T4m&var=521641695721&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[mtl]

Thx.

Sadly this link does not help, because due to postage + customs costs it is even more expensive than if I just buy here at Toyota dealer.

Well, I will go with 7l for engine coolant and hopefully 2l will remain also for inverter coolant.

I need to remove the plastic anyway, because I need to replace also the transmission oil (this is the most important item, since it is already way overdue). I am still waiting for the delivery of it, crazy times :(.

[TonyHSD]

3 minutes ago, mtl said:

Thx.

Sadly this link does not help, because due to postage + customs costs it is even more expensive than if I just buy here at Toyota dealer.

Well, I will go with 7l for engine coolant and hopefully 2l will remain also for inverter coolant.

I need to remove the plastic anyway, because I need to replace also the transmission oil (this is the most important item, since it is already way overdue). I am still waiting for the delivery of it, crazy times :(.

No worry about been a bit late, some owners never change no coolant no transmission fluid for the entire life and never had any issues, the coolant is more important though but this is good for over 100 miles in engine am 150k miles in inverter. 👍

[mtl]

A quick question.

I have found on eBay this:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/175190138340?epid=1116756924&hash=item28ca255de4:g:Qq4AAOSwpTFgSJxN&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoOQZgr65aye2ftHMkvI%2BeQVvz%2FsIZoHajako%2F57EX1WfbKZKOjGOYh0ukax6y5VeHtPXd4DzlGVGsOWxkyCpYc%2Bg2Ko9x0kvdf9Sumya5AOxIVBucA0gkefcOKy7Ffj7xYxTZmTa0e8VVX39w8lBUNkTaa8RlFCn1oUAGbZQKmXpjM2MUspM8f8xy%2BtEgI0q%2FM%2BWEPcBMq6gOLAcXCFEf7w%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR9b0hvfmYA

So, your part nr.: 08889-80072

But our american colleagues use this part nr.: 00272-SLLC2 and this seller also sells it:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/175009209747?epid=1616803351&hash=item28bf5c9d93:g:FOIAAOSwbUFiRBik&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoF72%2B%2BWkACtUvfRJ%2BwI6Wb68qgtAYJCLJGxwPcBDUBA7q7EDWMrojAFeKJ%2Fo5sHSES1hW4qGZ9mXhHNWl%2B4Vdjh2EW6JZXvGGQm0LHH1dUBrqBY86YKPykx9T1zbgX9RdSEIUan%2FoyMTVVDLamSbG%2BGxfIoSlYt3aeh4NgngxsWQoKiIz2b%2FMHY48pmYSDqHVSAoY6T7Pavhuv7XDPLhBmY%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7i7mvfmYA

Do you know what is the difference (except the quantity)? Is it the same coolant inside? Because this price for 08889-80072 is a little bit more wallet frendly :). And also the seller has a very good feedback.

[TonyHSD]

3 minutes ago, mtl said:

A quick question.

I have found on Ebay this:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/175190138340?epid=1116756924&hash=item28ca255de4:g:Qq4AAOSwpTFgSJxN&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoOQZgr65aye2ftHMkvI%2BeQVvz%2FsIZoHajako%2F57EX1WfbKZKOjGOYh0ukax6y5VeHtPXd4DzlGVGsOWxkyCpYc%2Bg2Ko9x0kvdf9Sumya5AOxIVBucA0gkefcOKy7Ffj7xYxTZmTa0e8VVX39w8lBUNkTaa8RlFCn1oUAGbZQKmXpjM2MUspM8f8xy%2BtEgI0q%2FM%2BWEPcBMq6gOLAcXCFEf7w%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR9b0hvfmYA

So, your part nr.: 08889-80072

But our american colleagues use this part nr.: 00272-SLLC2 and this same sellers also sels it:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/175009209747?epid=1616803351&hash=item28bf5c9d93:g:FOIAAOSwbUFiRBik&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoF72%2B%2BWkACtUvfRJ%2BwI6Wb68qgtAYJCLJGxwPcBDUBA7q7EDWMrojAFeKJ%2Fo5sHSES1hW4qGZ9mXhHNWl%2B4Vdjh2EW6JZXvGGQm0LHH1dUBrqBY86YKPykx9T1zbgX9RdSEIUan%2FoyMTVVDLamSbG%2BGxfIoSlYt3aeh4NgngxsWQoKiIz2b%2FMHY48pmYSDqHVSAoY6T7Pavhuv7XDPLhBmY%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7i7mvfmYA

Do you know what is the difference (except the quantity)? Is it the same coolant inside? Because this price for 08889-80072 is a little bit more wallet frendly :). And also the seller has a very good feedback.

It might be the same but if it’s me I will buy the European version, because we are in Europe and it’s for a European car. 👍 €100 not too bad. 

[mtl]

I agree.

Anyway if anyone from EU will need the genuine Toyota coolant, here is the cheapest one:
https://www.ato24.de/de/toyota-kuehlerfrostschutz-super-llc-premixed-pink.html

Basically 110 EUR with shipping vs 170 EUR for 10l of fluid. Still shockingly expensive for a transmission fluid, but much better. 🙂

And they offer also genuine transmission fluid for a very good price:
https://www.ato24.de/de/toyota-automatik-getriebeoel-atf-ws-1-l.html

[mtl]

First I would like to thank you all for your info, it really helped since I am new to Toyota ownership.
I have finally managed to get all the parts and do this ''big'' service. It took me cca. 6 hours of which 1 hour was trimming down the oil filter housing to fit (I will explain more at the end) and 40 minutes to get the lift ready and back to the storage.
I still need to replace the spark plugs and in the spring I plan to clean the EGR. That should be it hopefully.

Car on the lift

All the parts: genuine Toyota coolant (10l, used cca. 7l), genuine Toyota transmission oil (4l), Mahle cabin and oil filter, Bosch air filter, 4x genuine Toyota gaskets: 3x 904301-8008 (1x transmission coolant, 2x transmission fluid), 1x 900804-3037 for oil drain plug

Transmission fluid out

To add the transmission fluid I have used 1m plastic hose and funnel from the top

Comparison of new and old transmission fluid (it is completelly done).

This is where I am mad at the old owner, because it is really bad, since it was supposed to be already replaced. The car has 153.000 km. I really do not know, how some owners drive without replacing the transmission fluid and they do not have problems. I have used all 4l of the fluid, but some then overflowed out. I let it drip out for half an hour. Though it was strange, because according to Toyota service manual only 3.3l of fluid should be put in.
For comparison: replacing the transmission oil on a 22 year old Audi A2 with manual transmission: you can stil see golden reflection at the top

I have immediatelly noticed on the first drive that the transmission is much ''peppier'', it moves much more freely and reacts really immediatelly. I have not noticed this before, but now I see that the transmission reaction before replacing the transmission fluid was much more sluggish, so I am really happy with the result. Also I think that when engine turns on/off while driving is less noticeable.
I hope that no damage was done to the transmission due to this late transmission fluid change.

Air filter replacement

Cabin filter replacement

Inverter coolant replacement

Colour of the coolant is a little different, but this should not be a problem (new is on the right)

Topping engine and inverter coolant

Maintenance mode to allow coolant to the circle

Coolant level on the inverter really drops fast, so you need to be quick to add it:).

New oil filter

Comparison of the old and new oil. On the right side is genuine Toyota oil after 13.000km (8.077miles) service. On the left side is fresh Mobil 1 0W-20 X2 for comparison (first time see green coloured engine oil). The old oil is quite black, but you can still see the golden reflection. It is not burned through and through. Car was mainly driven on a longer trips (cca. 30 miles one way) on highway with cruise control set at 60mph. Very little city or short driving.

I bought this oil filter housing tool but it did not fit, because the outer part was to thick. So I needed to trim it down with a hand iron saw 😓. But at the end everything worked out and now I have a working tool for next oil change.

I have two questions:

1. cabin ventilator is below the cabin air filter. As I have tested it sucks the air from top down through the cabin filter, right?
2. how to reset service interval? Or can you reset it only when the reminder is active? I have tried with the method of holding the button down while turning the ignition on, but it does not work. Also I have not found the instructions in the service manual. Is it possible to reset it via Techstream?

Again thank you all for your info, it was really of great help. Now I am a little bit more comfortable with working on this Toyota. And now that I have all part numbers it will be easy to do the future maintenance.

For coolant replacement I have found this video really helpfull:

For transmission fluid:

 

[AisinW]

Don't be too upset about the transmission fluid. 160k km or 100k miles is actually fine and typical what dealership suggested in my 340k km Prius 06 for the change interval. Some of us do it every 100k km just for a good habit, and some of us never.  Toyota has no fix transmission fluid interval, only inspection every 100k km from the filler hole.  The E-CVT is all gears, no clutch, no belt, no wear materials like torque converter or DSG transmissions, nothing to worry about ATF. 

For the coolant, we have a fix interval 7 or 150k miles/250k km, and 5 years follow up. The color of coolant is typically redish from the engine but the inverter stay pink. 

For a sparkplugs, I am able to get it out without removing the cowl with the trick like Autodoc video, using short extensions instead of long one. Spark plugs interval is 100k km but we actually can do 200k km interval without any issue on Denso Iridium. 

I will do brake checks especially the sliding pin bolts greasing and check uneven wear in the inner part of brake pads and rotors/disc. I do not flush the brake fluid for the past 4 years because it is still less than 1% water contamination and the color is still like new fluid, practially the same as new fluid. 

[mtl]

Do you also feel the difference after replacing transmission oil? I was really pleasantly surprised because even before replacement it was nice, but now it is really excellent.

[TonyHSD]

Well done Igor, good job 👏 

The car dives better and it’s peppier because of the new  engine oil and air filter. Transmission fluid really doesn’t do any difference and it is not a big deal if haven’t been change ever. The darker colour on the transmission fluid doesn’t necessarily mean it’s bad but the engine oil doesn’t look good for only 8k miles. I do change mine at 10k miles and it’s much cleaner plus almost no contamination, yours definitely looks like have done more miles. If it’s me on the next oil change I will use engine flush. The new mobile 1 oil looks also super strange, why green is beyond me, perhaps as eco credentials 😂☘️🦖 The oil filter tool was not the exact fit,  that one is for diesel Toyota. No worries, I was sold the same but then after I bought the correct one which has smaller outer diameter.
The hvac system does suck air from top towards bottom and cabin filter correct  installation is with air flow top to bottom., as you did. 👍
 All in all spot on. Thanks for sharing. 👍

[mtl]

49 minutes ago, TonyHSD said:

The car dives better and it’s peppier because of the new  engine oil and air filter. Transmission fluid really doesn’t do any difference and it is not a big deal if haven’t been change ever. The darker colour on the transmission fluid doesn’t necessarily mean it’s bad but the engine oil doesn’t look good for only 8k miles. I do change mine at 10k miles and it’s much cleaner plus almost no contamination, yours definitely looks like have done more miles. If it’s me on the next oil change I will use engine flush. The new mobile 1 oil looks also super strange, why green is beyond me, perhaps as eco credentials 😂☘️🦖 The oil filter tool was not the exact fit because you for some reason had picked one for diesel Toyota. No worries, I was sold the same but then after I bought the correct one which has smaller outer diameter.
The hvac system does suck air from top towards bottom and cabin filter correct  installation is with air flow top to bottom.
 Anything else spot on. Thanks for sharing. 👍

Are you sure regarding the transmission oil and no difference? The old transmission oil was really bad. I have replaced oil on many transmissions and have not yet seen so burned transmission oil. And I do not mean that the car puls better as better acceleration. I can cleary feel the difference when you just sligtly add the throttle and the revs really jump up immediatelly, before the oil replacement this action was much more sluggish. Air filter was fine, not really new, but far from clogged.
Regarding the engine oil: it could be that this is because first 2.000km the first owner did and he had only shorter distances. At least according to official Toyota invoice the oil was replaced at 140.300km, so 13.000km ago. Though I have expected such oil. I did not find it to bad, because it still has that gold glow at the top.
I will do next oil service in 12.000km and see what the oil will be. What do you recommend for engine flush?
Regarding the oil housing tool: I choose this because it was thicker, so though stronger and for both it was stated that it would fit Prius 3. Another example when bigger is not always better 🤣. Anyway, now it fits after 1 hour of sawing, lool.
 

[AisinW]

Congratulations Igor, good job.  Toyota WS gets dark very quickly once it is operated at normal temperature/driving in highway for few hours. That's normal.  I did not feel any difference even after 100k miles/160k km interval on my 06 Prius. I also feel no difference on my Auris 2016 after 100k km ATF change. 

Strangely, i never feel any difference on any fluid change or sparkplus because they are still on time.  

Only when I change my corroded front brake disc+pads and rear rubber on the stabilizer links, the car is sharper on maneuvering and braking in  Alps area.  

[mtl]

50 minutes ago, AisinW said:

For a sparkplugs, I am able to get it out without removing the cowl with the trick like Autodoc video, using short extensions instead of long one. Spark plugs interval is 100k km but we actually can do 200k km interval without any issue on Denso Iridium.

I have looked at the Autodoc video. I will get that extension tool, because removing the whole upper part looks really timeconsuming. Thx for the tip :).

[TonyHSD]

100% transmission fluid doesn’t do any difference in driving characteristics because as mentioned there are no gears, no clutch slip, no cons or belts , or chains, nothing. There is power split device which is open differential and another standard open differential that drives the wheels. Oil gets darker from heat but this is usually if the car is driven in mountain regions with a lot of high hills climbing or constant high speeds on motorway and revving up the engine. 
The engine oil is different story. When engine oil gets older it loses a bit of lubricity , gets thinner from fuel contamination, then the friction increase and makes the engine running a bit hotter plus a bit noisier. Also there is more apparent transition between electric and petrol while driving, very similar feeling is when you use E10 vs E5 petrol, the lower ethanol content equals lower engine noise and better response, more power and the car feels lighter and peppier. This process with engine oil can occur as early as 5k miles or after 8-9k miles, this will depend of how new the car is and how been used. More short town trips, excessive idle (in this cars long time in ready mode) , all that will shorten the engine oil life. 
For engine flush I use stp red bottle. It’s cheap and good quality flush. You can also try wynns, these are one of the best on the market for fuel and oil treatments. 👍

[mtl]

Yesterday was a good day. I remembered that I have some ''twisty'' tools in my toolbox, so I have checked and with some improvisation from different sets I ended up with this :):

Coils are out. The third one has rust on it. Should I leave it or it will be a problem in the future?

Spark plugs removal

Original factory spark plugs look healthy (if we ignore the upper part):

Fresh spark plugs ready for installation

I had to improvise a little bit with the spark plugs installation #DIY 🙂

A question: what is the torque that you have tightened the spark plags to? On Denso spec sheet is 17Nm, but Autodoc video says 27Nm. I have checked the official Toyota maintenance guide and I have not found a torque spec for this.😡

I have not noticed any difference in driving with new spark plugs.

Videos used:

 

 

[TonyHSD]

5 hours ago, mtl said:

Yesterday was a good day. I remembered that I have some ''twisty'' tools in my toolbox, so I have checked and with some improvisation from different sets I ended up with this :):

Coils are out. The third one has rust on it. Should I leave it or it will be a problem in the future?

Spark plugs removal

Original factory spark plugs look healthy (if we ignore the upper part):

Fresh spark plugs ready for installation

I had to improvise a little bit with the spark plugs installation #DIY 🙂

A question: what is the torque that you have tightened the spark plags to? On Denso spec sheet is 17Nm, but Autodoc video says 27Nm. I have checked the official Toyota maintenance guide and I have not found a torque spec for this.😡

I have not noticed any difference in driving with new spark plugs.

Videos used:

 

 

Good job 👏 

I do them 25Nm , however I read somewhere the 25Nm been previous spec and since some time ago they have changed to 17Nm. Not a big deal either spec you use as long as it’s not too tight to cause a damage to the head. I have a precise torque wrench for low setting and did tried both 17 and 25, while 17 seemed very light fit on new plugs. What I also read is that many Toyota owners get trouble undoing the plugs, plugs seized inside, some even had broken plugs , damaged threads, etc trouble again mostly from USA market. It might this be the reason why Toyota has lowered the torque settings. Your Spark plugs look goo indeed 👍

[mtl]

2 minutes ago, TonyHSD said:

Good job 👏 

I do them 25Nm , however I read somewhere the 25Nm been previous spec and since some time ago they have changed to 17Nm. Not a big deal either spec you use as long as it’s not too tight to cause a damage to the head. I have a precise torque wrench for low setting and did tried both 17 and 25, while 17 seemed very light fit on new plugs. What I also read is that many Toyota owners get trouble undoing the plugs, plugs seized inside, some even had broken plugs , damaged threads, etc trouble again mostly from USA market. It might this be the reason why Toyota has lowered the torque settings. Your Spark plugs look goo indeed 👍

For me 17Nm was also to light, so I ''gambled'' with 22Nm :).

[mtl]

3 minutes ago, TonyHSD said:

Good job 👏 

I do them 25Nm , however I read somewhere the 25Nm been previous spec and since some time ago they have changed to 17Nm. Not a big deal either spec you use as long as it’s not too tight to cause a damage to the head. I have a precise torque wrench for low setting and did tried both 17 and 25, while 17 seemed very light fit on new plugs. What I also read is that many Toyota owners get trouble undoing the plugs, plugs seized inside, some even had broken plugs , damaged threads, etc trouble again mostly from USA market. It might this be the reason why Toyota has lowered the torque settings. Your Spark plugs look goo indeed 👍

For me 17Nm was also to light, so I ''gambled'' with 22Nm :).

[TonyHSD]

6 minutes ago, mtl said:

For me 17Nm was also to light, so I ''gambled'' with 22Nm :).

I was thinking the same but because I had them out so easily after 60k miles  I thought just do them as I always do.
 

The trick to undo the plugs is on cold engine, start the car and let it idle for 2-4 minutes, turn off , wait 2 minutes. The engine should be slightly warmed, like room temperature and be able to touch it by hand without getting burned. Then the plugs are easy to undo. If the engine is too hot or too cold undoing plugs may become a challenge. 👌

[Gerg]

14 hours ago, mtl said:

Coils are out. The third one has rust on it. Should I leave it or it will be a problem in the future?

One or two other Auris Mk1 hybrid owners have had water ingress onto the coils, similar to yours.

The circular rubber sealing ring, on closer inspection, has an intricate channel cast into it to allow the spark plug area to vent (when heating and cooling?). Perhaps you've spotted this.

I have a suspicion that a combination of the windscreen wiper scuttle, the rocker cover plastic cowling, and the trough around the spark plugs can unintentionally direct rainwater to drip onto the coil areas, particularly when parked. 

If the engine is cooling down and the vent hole in the rubber seal is pointing the 'wrong' way, then it could draw any water in the immediate area into the spark plug void as it cools, and the air contracts a little.  This is just a theory!

The cure?  If there is any credibility in the above theory, then you could clean the rubber seal on the problem coil, and turn it so the vent hole points 180 degrees the other direction.  

I would be tempted to put a very light smear of silicone grease on the affected rust areas of the coil shroud, and also a very thin smear on the seal itself.

I've not seen or read of a Mk 2 Auris hybrid do this coil rusting yet, and I've just changed the plugs on both of ours (2013).  Perhaps the different windscreen wiper scuttle shape is some benefit?  The plugs are also a little easier to access than they are on the Mk1, I understand.

I imagine you already knew that the brown staining on your ceramic insulator base is a corona effect and is quite normal.

No difference noticed on either of our Aurises after the plugs were replaced with new Denso ones at 75,000 and 87,000 miles.

[TonyHSD]

20 minutes ago, Gerg said:

One or two other Auris Mk1 hybrid owners have had water ingress onto the coils, similar to yours.

The circular rubber sealing ring, on closer inspection, has an intricate channel cast into it to allow the spark plug area to vent (when heating and cooling?). Perhaps you've spotted this.

I have a suspicion that a combination of the windscreen wiper scuttle, the rocker cover plastic cowling, and the trough around the spark plugs can unintentionally direct rainwater to drip onto the coil areas, particularly when parked. 

If the engine is cooling down and the vent hole in the rubber seal is pointing the 'wrong' way, then it could draw any water in the immediate area into the spark plug void as it cools, and the air contracts a little.  This is just a theory!

The cure?  If there is any credibility in the above theory, then you could clean the rubber seal on the problem coil, and turn it so the vent hole points 180 degrees the other direction.  

I would be tempted to put a very light smear of silicone grease on the affected rust areas of the coil shroud, and also a very thin smear on the seal itself.

I've not seen or read of a Mk 2 Auris hybrid do this coil rusting yet, and I've just changed the plugs on both of ours (2013).  Perhaps the different windscreen wiper scuttle shape is some benefit?  The plugs are also a little easier to access than they are on the Mk1, I understand.

I imagine you already knew that the brown staining on your ceramic insulator base is a corona effect and is quite normal.

No difference noticed on either of our Aurises after the plugs were replaced with new Denso ones at 75,000 and 87,000 miles.

Thanks for sharing this information 👍 Very interesting and helpful. Can it be the issue of coils been over tighten, they only need very little torque 10Nm which is as soon as the bolt stops spinning. My spark plugs has rust on the threads, the coils looked clean to me. With one has a bit of rust up near the seal. Also is it possible if water enter the tube to go down the cylinder via the spark plug  thread and to cause misfire at cold start? 

[Derek.w]

I used 18Nm on all my Yaris spark plugs since 1999 the 2014 model I used a longer spark plug tool its 10 inches long with a magnetic pick up for holding spark plug.