Yaris MK1 questions

[Ollyc90]

Just bought an SR and it drives like a dog so I've ordered new shocks, wishbones and roll bar links which will hopefully freshen things up. 

While installing my radio and sub I noticed the ECU has a plug missing, can anyone tell me the purpose of this empty socket please.

Also does anyone know what chassis stiffening was added to the t sport from factory.

Thanks

[corradovr6]

front drop links will make a big difference, see if you can get some PU ones.

 

There is an empty socket on the back which i believe is for the satnav.

The t sport has slightly lower suspension but the main effect you'll feel is from the seats which are a lot more supportive.  You may also want to uprate the rear ARB to a slightly thicker one - which will help with roll immensely.  Do post up some photos of the car and your activities

[Ollyc90]

22 hours ago, corradovr6 said:

There is an empty socket on the back which i believe is for the satnav.

Sorry not on the radio, on the actual engine ECU. 

I'm sure pics will follow once I get started.

[flash22]

Empty port on the back of the radio is for the factory CD changer

eg. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154641636797

[flash22]

Extra socket on the ecu is for an auto/freetronic gearbox, being on a 2000 it will be a jap built car - be aware these cars use a lot of different parts compared to the French built cars (2001 onwards) especially brakes

[Ollyc90]

17 minutes ago, flash22 said:

Extra socket on the ecu is for an auto/freetronic gearbox, being on a 2000 it will be a jap built car - be aware these cars use a lot of different parts compared to the French built cars (2001 onwards) especially brakes

Thanks so much, any chipping options for these ECUs? And does anyone have a pinout for the ECU? I've ordered a Haynes manual but doubt there would be one in it.

Lucky I read this before ordering brakes, I had this issue with the jap built verso I own.

[Cyker]

Yes! ESPECIALLY the brakes!!!

I have totally not been caught out by this in the past and gone through a tedious and irritating process to get them exchanged for the correct ones. Nope. No sirree.

(Even the discs are different !! All because of rules for locally sourcing components!!)

A popular upgrade back in the day were whiteline ARBs front and rear and polybushes, but that was mainly for the T-Sport. Not sure what a 2000 SR is; The only Yaris SRs I know of were the Mk2s which were the 2006+ model

I actually had polybushes on my Mk1 Yaris D4D's front ARB droplinks because the OEM ones are well known for being made of grape jelly   (They were also insanely expensive for some reason at the time; The polybushes were like half the cost  ).

They made the car ride noticeably harder over bumps tho' (Also, if you do this, don't forget to grease them when installing unless you get the carbon impregnated ones as I forgot on my 2nd D4D and they were squeaking and creaking something awful!!

[flash22]

mk1 SR is a 1.3, it will be the 2SZFE, not exactly easy to remap, for the cost you might as well buy a 1.5

have a look at fensport or dc performance

[Cyker]

Cheers, never seen one of those!!

[Ollyc90]

16 hours ago, flash22 said:

mk1 SR is a 1.3, it will be the 2SZFE, not exactly easy to remap, for the cost you might as well buy a 1.5

have a look at fensport or dc performance

Not afraid of not easy. I took the ECU on my civic apart to solder on a chip and bunch of resistors. Went from 36mpg to 23mpg so it definitely worked right? 

Honestly I'm not looking for more power, it does alright with the Aircon off. Just looking to delay fuel cut so maybe that tidy TTE exhaust may give me a little burble on overrun, oh how I miss carbs.

[Richard Davies]

I remember the rear wiper on my Japanese 2001 Yaris was different from the French made ones.

It was hard to find replacement blades, but my local Toyota dealership is within walking distance so I would go there to get a new one.

[Derek.w]

I just replaced the rubber somtimes new rubbers then on accasion just cut down a front rubber where the end had torn away because it was frozen to window at some point.

A drop of glue stops it working out of the track if you find it moving along the track.

[Ollyc90]

Can't remember the last time I used a rear wiper, all the years of driving vans have given me a rear window blind spot.

[flash22]

You can over fuel any petrol engine by just with a resistor across a sensor you are not altering the map just fooling the input to the ecu, potentially causing mechanical damage like bore washing and dumping raw fuel into the cat, you will not find a TTE exhaust as they just don't exist, TTE doesn't exist - exhaust wise, custom made or fox are about the only options, imports from Japan get pricey quickly with shipping a HKS or Fujitsubo are in the £500+ range

 

[lani100]

ECU's are locked and cannot be mapped, TTE exhaust have to be lucky but they are still out there.
A good used backbox from Japan isn't that expensive either

[Ollyc90]

1 hour ago, lani100 said:

ECU's are locked and cannot be mapped, TTE exhaust have to be lucky but they are still out there.
A good used backbox from Japan isn't that expensive either

That's disappointing. I already have the TTE exhaust, was just looking to get it's full sound potential. It's very tame at the moment 

[flash22]

Remapping depends on the part number of the ecu if it can be done, if not you're into piggyback ecu's like AEM F/IC 6

[Ollyc90]

1 minute ago, flash22 said:

Remapping depends on the part number of the ecu if it can be done, if not you're into piggyback ecu's like AEM F/IC 6

No chance of adding an eeprom chip to the standard ECU then I take it. The Honda's had space for it and everything. 

 

Piggyback it shall be. Thanks for your advice.

[flash22]

You must have deep pockets, these are not cheap

[Ollyc90]

Nope, but I have a bad habit of spending many times the cost of the car to chase what I want from a car.

[lani100]

21 hours ago, Ollyc90 said:

That's disappointing. I already have the TTE exhaust, was just looking to get it's full sound potential. It's very tame at the moment 

Remove the center silencer.
Also don't bother with piggybacks on these ecu's even with good ones you are constantly fighting issues, by the time it's all installed and properly mapped you've spend a lot of cash with barely any increase or benefits.
Better invest that money in something like a supercharger and get real gains.

[flash22]

26 minutes ago, lani100 said:

Remove the center silencer.
Also don't bother with piggybacks on these ecu's even with good ones you are constantly fighting issues, by the time it's all installed and properly mapped you've spend a lot of cash with barely any increase or benefits.
Better invest that money in something like a supercharger and get real gains.

But you need to map the engine for the fuelling and ignition. OP has a 1.3 SR 2SZFE

[lani100]

2 hours ago, flash22 said:

But you need to map the engine for the fuelling and ignition. OP has a 1.3 SR 2SZFE

He said it's a my2000 so then it will be a 2NZ-FE jap built.
Blitz, TTE, Jimze, Greddy chargers etc. all come with pre-configured bolt on fuel/ig controllers.

[flash22]

Try finding one that's complete, these are not cheap, ecus are getting on a bit as well (15-20 years old)

[lani100]

4 hours ago, flash22 said:

Try finding one that's complete, these are not cheap, ecus are getting on a bit as well (15-20 years old)

Have one available here 😀