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New to Yaris.


paul9
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So I got an 05 UK Yaris, 1.3 vvti. Would this be a Mk1 or Mk2 or what? Also, what would the engine code be on this wee beastie? TIA for any clarification. Also, at 127k miles, would I be using 0W/30 or thicker or thinner oils? And would a modified oil choice play fine with the vvt control system?

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Hi if its a jap machine its mark1 if its French its mark2 as thats the year of the changeover.

Engine oil SEA 5w30 or 10w30  specification API SJ or SL

On a new car in 2014 I was using oil AG 5w30.

You have no problems with 0W30 just keep to one of the prifix codes.

 

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48 minutes ago, paul9 said:

So I got an 05 UK Yaris, 1.3 vvti. Would this be a Mk1 or Mk2 or what? Also, what would the engine code be on this wee beastie? TIA for any clarification. Also, at 127k miles, would I be using 0W/30 or thicker or thinner oils? And would a modified oil choice play fine with the vvt control system?

2005 is a change over year between mark 1 & mark 2, if it looks like:

This Used Toyota Yaris 2005 for Sale | Motors.co.uk its a late mark 1 model and will be built in France, Chassis number starting with VNK the 1.3 vvti will be a 2SZFE 

This Toyota Yaris (2005) - HD Picture 1 of 11 - #77828 - 2100x1268 its an early Mark 2 built France the 1.3 vvti is also a 2SZFE 

 

As for oil as mentioned Engine oil SEA 5w30 specification API SJ or SL

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Without going outside to the carpark to look right now, I think it is the MK1, although the alloys are like those on the MK2 picture. Thank you, guys.

Anything in particular to be mindful of on these cars? At the moment, it seems like it could benefit from new bushings etc. in the suspension system and some exhaust work.

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Is this Badge a trim level indicator?

Also, it seems someone blacked out part of the dash display on the right of the speedo. I suspect there was some hiding of faults and warning lights going on, lol.

 

IMG_20220718_062021.jpg

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Suspect it's a Mk1; If it has the World's Shortest Bonnet it's a Mk2.

Biggest killer of the Yaris is rust, esp. around the rear and the suspension arms and subframes. Basically the whole bottom of the car :laugh: 

Other killer is neglect - The Yaris engines are virtually bullet-proof, but only if they've had regular quality oil changes; Their only weak point in old age is the chain, which needs regular good oil to stay in good condition, esp. with the petrol engines.

 

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Think the Badge is for the 'Colour Collection' version of the Yaris. 

Toyota used this trim level for the 2005 Yaris, 2005-06 Corolla and 2012 Auris first generation - limited edition models with added equipment, etc when the models were nearing the end of production.

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Yeah, further inspection with the provided information reveals it to be a French MK1 with a bad vvt sensor code. Is the vvt oil filter screen just underneath the control solenoid on this one? I'm wanting to inspect and clean it when I change the oil tomorrow.

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Yaris 1.3

Japanese engine code for 1.3  is 2NZ-FE

for French built models 1.3   2SZ-FE

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Paul9 are you burning oil if not don't use a heavier oil you have other problems then like making it harder to start.

At over 100K its time to change timing chain.

vvt error can be caused by a loose rattling timing chain.

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I haven't noticed any smoke, and haven't had it long enough to say if it burns oil. That said, it is pretty much a disposable until I repair the Merc, although I am thinking of keeping it or something similar. I did get a filter and some Magnatec 5/30 for it. The Merc is a bit thirsty, and the new E10 petrol substitute doesn't do it any favours. I wasn't noticing any chain rattle, but it may be masked by the exhaust leaks, lol.

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Somtimes the exhaust leaks at the ball joint joining rear part to front part it has a type of asbestos o ring inside and a grooved clamp going around its mating surfaces  with a bolt through two lugs.

If you dont think its your exhaust is rusted out cut through this bolt with a angle grinder (you need goggles on) and replace the bolt.

Note if its leaking at this point you see some soot markes.

 

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Just to jump in on this thread, I've got the same car as Paul, a 1.3 05.

Can anyone shed any light on the chassis numbers? Mine comes up as an "SPC12" - is this the same as an NCP10? Are there any differences at all? Or is it due to the change over year? 

Thanks

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2 minutes ago, JamesRP said:

Just to jump in on this thread, I've got the same car as Paul, a 1.3 05.

Can anyone shed any light on the chassis numbers? Mine comes up as an "SPC12" - is this the same as an NCP10? Are there any differences at all? Or is it due to the change over year? 

Thanks

SCP12 is for cars built in France with 2SZ-FE engine, NCP10 is the code for earlier Japan built cars with the 2NZ-FE engine.
There are quite a few differences between them but mostly in the electrics and accessories fitted.
French builts have Valeo and Bosch parts whereas the Japanese use Denso and Koito.

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21 minutes ago, lani100 said:

SCP12 is for cars built in France with 2SZ-FE engine, NCP10 is the code for earlier Japan built cars with the 2NZ-FE engine.
There are quite a few differences between them but mostly in the electrics and accessories fitted.
French builts have Valeo and Bosch parts whereas the Japanese use Denso and Koito.

Thanks for the fast and detailed response Ian, much appreciated.

Would you know if there would be any differences in the suspension at all? I'd assume they'd be the same?

 

Thanks

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1 hour ago, JamesRP said:

Thanks for the fast and detailed response Ian, much appreciated.

Would you know if there would be any differences in the suspension at all? I'd assume they'd be the same?

 

Thanks

Same height and spring rates etc. but p/n's are different but can be interchanged

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By P/N's, do you mean part numbers? 

Sorry for all the questions! 

 

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Just changed the oil and filter. Does anyone know where the last moron who changed the filter would have bought the oil filter impact tightening socket?🤬

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Yes, that would be the Acme Company. Same place Wile E Coyote buys his anvils

wile-e-coyote-acme.jpg

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Yeah, the new filter said tighten by hand on it, apparently the incredible Hulk took those instructions to heart, lol.

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