XP130 2016 1.4 d-4d (1ND-TV) Oil Service

[rich1e2001]

Just dropping some info here on recent oil service I carried on above engine incase helpful for others.  

• Oil filter element: mann HU 7019z
• Sump plug and washer: PK6300 (used only copper part, it comes with fiber and copper)
• Oil filter housing removal tool: Sealy VS7112
• Oil: Castrol Magnatec 5W-30 C2 4L (3.7l needed for service)

Torque settings used:

• Sump plug: 38 N.m
• Oil filter housing: 25 N.m

Also changed following while I was at it:

• mann air filter: C 3088/1
• mann cabin/pollen filter: CUK 1919

[Guest]

Probably not make any difference but the "genuine" drain plug washer is not copper. Coloured blue. Aluminium?

That's the housing cover tool I use, works very well with those slots to engage the "ears" on the cover.

Best with a socket rather than using the 3/8" square. How do I know? Some 20 stone gorilla at the Toyota dealership overtightened it(to 25Nm?) the final service my car had there. The torque is even marked on the cover. Had to use a 600mm breaker bar to move it but only after "spreading" the square using a 3/8" drive long ratchet!

[rich1e2001]

I did notice the blue aluminium washer that came off, but of course by that point I was already committed with the parts I had.  Seems to be sealing fine so far, fingers crossed.

Sounds like that mechanic is not the only one to over estimate the yield strength of those plastic filter housings; my housing is missing some of it's lugs although I suppose the garage might have gone at it with footprints in lieu of not having the correct tool.  It's at 25 N.m now so hopefully comes off significantly easier at the next service interval. 

[Derek.w]

Yes this is often overtightend I used a 4 foot braker bar on one job and I was moving not the sump plug.  Had to give the braker bar (scafolding pole)  a tap with a hammer.

That worked

If you dont have a special valve relise tool just make one from a mastic tube platic end.

[TonyHSD]

5 hours ago, mrpj1 said:

Probably not make any difference but the "genuine" drain plug washer is not copper. Coloured blue. Aluminium?

That's the housing cover tool I use, works very well with those slots to engage the "ears" on the cover.

Best with a socket rather than using the 3/8" square. How do I know? Some 20 stone gorilla at the Toyota dealership overtightened it(to 25Nm?) the final service my car had there. The torque is even marked on the cover. Had to use a 600mm breaker bar to move it but only after "spreading" the square using a 3/8" drive long ratchet!

Same with my gf Auris previously, I had used 750mm breaker bar to undo the filter housing, and you know the oil filter was not changed on the last few main dealer oil service’s because was about to become to disintegrate itself, definitely a two to more years old. This 25Nm is simply when the housing stop rotating, that’s it, job is done. 👍

[Guest]

19 hours ago, rich1e2001 said:

those plastic filter housings;

Fortunately the 1.33l petrol has an aluminium filter cover. I did own a D4D Yaris and I was always concerned about the plastic filter cover if it had been overtightened. Thumbs up to Toyota because there was a hinged flap for filter access and a hole for the drain plug access, or could be the other way round? Saved having to remove the undertray.

I can understand the urge to tighten it that bit more because 25Nm doesn't seem enough! I've just changed my engine oil and filter and have to confess to using 30Nm, naughty me.

 

[TonyHSD]

31 minutes ago, mrpj1 said:

Fortunately the 1.33l petrol has an aluminium filter cover. I did own a D4D Yaris and I was always concerned about the plastic filter cover if it had been overtightened. Thumbs up to Toyota because there was a hinged flap for filter access and a hole for the drain plug access, or could be the other way round? Saved having to remove the undertray.

I can understand the urge to tighten it that bit more because 25Nm doesn't seem enough! I've just changed my engine oil and filter and have to confess to using 30Nm, naughty me.

 

The seal of the filter housing is done by the rubber o ring around and that’s why is important to be fixed currently and because the housing is made of plastic there is no need to be tightened more than recommended Nm. I am working on the car currently and waiting to finish my engine flush , haha and typing on the forum 👌😂 

[Cyker]

2 hours ago, mrpj1 said:

Thumbs up to Toyota because there was a hinged flap for filter access and a hole for the drain plug access, or could be the other way round? Saved having to remove the undertray.

Yes!! It's little details like this that I love about Toyotas - When they design the car, they think about servicing and put things that need regular maintenance in easier to reach places or put access hatches.

Even the fuel filter in the 1.4 D4D was right at the top of the engine area, immediately accessible, not buried down low in the back somewhere.

It's one thing I dislike about a lot of more modern german cars, as their designers seem to have some fetish with ramming as much stuff into the engine bay in as tight a space as possible in a way that's easy to assemble and install in the factory in one go, but a massive PITA to get at come servicing time when you just want to get at one specific bit, as you end up having to remove half the engine hoses and things to get at it!

I much prefer the spin-on oil filters than the paper-element ones; The plastic housing that gets reused with the paper element filter just gets destroyed as people use tools to tighten them too much instead of hand-tightening them, then when they need to be replaced they're on so tight they get damaged again by the tool removing them!

At least with the spin-on type it doesn't matter if they get damaged on removal since the whole thing gets replaced...

[rich1e2001]

4 hours ago, mrpj1 said:

Thumbs up to Toyota because there was a hinged flap for filter access and a hole for the drain plug access

This is a really nice feature, so simple but saves some faff.  On my car the drain plug flap folds back on itself and can be held there by fastening it onto the undertray with the same plastic pop-fastener things. It's like someone actually thought about the person doing the job for once; the flap is held out of the way AND you know exactly where you left those plastic fasteners!

[rich1e2001]

2 hours ago, Cyker said:

Even the fuel filter in the 1.4 D4D was right at the top of the engine area, immediately accessible, not buried down low in the back somewhere.

This is the next item on my to-do list.  I've see a couple of video's on replacing these and it does look fairly handy where they've located this in comparison to some others I've seen. 

[Guest]

On 8/4/2022 at 11:07 AM, TonyHSD said:

The seal of the filter housing is done by the rubber o ring

As is the round insert(3/8" square hole) where the handy housing drain tube(supplied with the filter)inserts. Smaller O ring supplied with the filter. No torque spec. evident for that. I use the first of the two stage German torque system. Gneisentite and Gutentite.

I can't remember if the plastic cover has a pre removal drain? Does it unscrew a couple of turns and drains? An age thing re memory!

 

On 8/4/2022 at 1:10 PM, Cyker said:

I much prefer the spin-on oil filters than the paper-element ones

Seconded.

[rich1e2001]

On 8/5/2022 at 3:48 PM, mrpj1 said:

I can't remember if the plastic cover has a pre removal drain?

Plastic one doesn't (at least mine doesn't anyway). Filter drain pipe came in the box but assume that filter must be compatible with one of the other housings that have the drain fitted. 

[Guest]

23 hours ago, rich1e2001 said:

Plastic one doesn't (at least mine doesn't anyway). Filter drain pipe came in the box but assume that filter must be compatible with one of the other housings that have the drain fitted. 

Yes, it clicks into the hole where the small access plug locates. Quite useful for draining the housing before removing the cover. If the box contained a smaller O ring, that is for that plug.

Presumably only for the aluminium version.

Just realised how important it is to look at the pretty pictures. The screw in plug is 12.5Nm tightening torque. Not Gneisentite!