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Posted

get a stiff brush and plenty of IPA or contact cleaner and scrub it, and clean out those via(s), if it is heavily contaminated, use a fibreglass pen

it's a multi-layer PCB so be careful and don't sink too much heat in the board


Posted

Managed to repair two out of the three tracks but one of the holes where the track goes to is not holding any solder so I'm going to get the ecu cloned and hope these damaged tracks are the reason for the car not starting 🤞

Posted

you can use a bit of wire (a couple of strands), feed it through the via (hole) and solder on the other side of the board

Posted

The three holes with the damaged tracks are not visible from the other side only certain ones are, I cleaned it up the best could even put a couple of strands of presoldered copper wire pushed into the hole heated the wire up but wouldn't take hold like the other two did , was worth a try. I can get a ecu with exactly the same part number and get it cloned, do you think the damaged tracks would prevent the car from starting. 

Posted

not without seeing it with the schematics to see what is in that area of the board


Posted

had a closer look at your images the chips and components in that area are related to the ECU power supply/driver

Posted

Got the refurbished cloned ECU but it doesn't operate the throttle body but the damaged ECU does operate the throttle body, I can communicate with the cloned ECU and it shows fault code on TB, I spoke to the company who cloned it and sending out a replacement ECU. Has anyone got a wiring diagram and voltage references for the throttle body just for curiosity. 

Screenshot_20240912-121847.png

Posted

Duff ECU by the sounds of it, TB gets its power and control from the ECU directly

Posted

Yeah that's what I thought with it working with the damaged original ECU, the company ECU decode are sending out a replacement as they think it could be faulty or something went wrong when cloning the ECU. I'm going to check the wiring first before I plug in the replacement do you know what voltage should be at the plug and ohms check at the TB, much appreciated if you do know. 

Posted

That's great thanks for that. 

Posted

I've just noticed I've been using *16 Before Dec. 2008 Production as my pin layout because my immo wires are in pins 33A and 6A with orange and pink wires at immo box and the DLC3 are in pins 14A  62A and 63A whereas the TB diagram you posted are showing the pin layout *17 From Dec. 2008 Production, the car was registered March 2008. I'll check tomorrow. 

Peugeot 107 ECS-1KR.pdf

Posted

The cloned ECU has the same part numbers as my damaged ECU but the date and another set numbers are different, haven't plugged cloned ECU in yet I'm going to check TB wires first just to make sure they OK. 

Screenshot_20240914-223919~2.png

PXL_20240914_211928432~2.jpg


Posted

No worries Bob, I've just checked pins 2,3,5,6 at B28 and pins 7,16,31 at B26, pin 29 at B25 (disconnected) resistance below 1ohms, voltage between pins 2 and 3 at B28 5.1v, are the ECU's the same even though the cloned one has a later date on it. 

Posted

Ignition on or off when checking for short on TB wires? 

Screenshot_20240915-142714.jpg

Posted

No power with a resistance checks

Posted

Ah right OK so if I get a reading 10 kohms or higher that indicates at short. 

Posted

Those are wire tests

a good wire will have low resistance, a shorted wire will have a high resistance

 

was those codes generated by the new or old ecu

Posted

IT STARTS,cloned ECU works, so after checking all sensors and wiring it was the ECU that had corrosion on the circuit board. Thanks flash22 for all you help and advice much appreciated, just got to put top the dash on then it's back on the road. By the way the car fired up first time is if they was nothing wrong. 

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