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Aygo Ecu ground location ?


Markie1881
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Tryed upload video of the throttle body but didn't work. 

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Tried a jump start? the Battery may have died

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The Battery is fine as I said it will either start or not start when it does start it will run for about 5 minutes with the engine light on when it stalls that's when the engine light flashes fast along with the throttle body 

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check the alternator output voltage and see what it does in those 5 mins

also fully load the electrical system (lights, fan and rear defrost)

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The voltage is around 14.1v when on idle no load and around 12.4 when engine off, I'll check voltage with load that's if the car starts when I get home tonight. 

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does a scan tool connect to the ECU and you can see live data

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I shall try that as well if the car starts, thanks for the advice I'll be in touch. 

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I left the Battery disconnect last night and reconnected it this afternoon now the engine warning has stopped flashing fast it is now constantly on when ignition is on but still doesn't start just turns over with smell of petrol, I've changed the plugs today still no start, Battery and starter motor are fine no diagnostic codes are shown I've checked all the connections under the bonnet even had the ECU out no sign of water damage, I'm stumped. 

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Had this fault code on the car back in April P0011 camshaft position sensor along with the engine warning light and oil light, my daughter had driven the car back from work with low oil, topped up oil removed error code and all good, if this sensor was faulty would the car get no spark cos I can smell petrol when I try to start it is it possible that the camshaft position sensor could be faulty but show no error code

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If you're smelling fuel then that would suggest that the injectors are firing, therefore it sees the engine turning over and is trying to start. You mentioned you found an intermittent 12v supply in an earlier post, so I would suggest checking your power supply at the ignition coils, using either a test bulb or backprobing. Most designs have a constant 12v while the ignition is turned on.

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Yeah the coils have 12v supply and earth, the earlier post regarding the intermittent 12v supply was the throttle body but that's OK now it's working as it should opening and closing when accelerator pedal is pressed 

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has the key fob had a new case or Battery? any new rings around the ignition barrel

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On my earlier post when said the engine warning light was flashing erratic and throttle body flap was erratic I unplugged the throttle body there was a slight clicking sound coming from around the fuse box next to the Battery, I just found out that there is a internal relay inside the fuse box R3 R4 R5 R6 I've now got the wiring diagram for so I'm check all components that use them relays especially R3 which is connected to the ECU. 

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you will not hear the internal relays click as they are solid-state relays

 

before this issue started did you fill up with fuel? bad fuel or you put diesel in it - would make sense as you have no codes

a bad crank sensor will also cause the same issue and may not throw a code

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My daughter went out in the car when she came back it tried to start it 2 attempts didn't start 3rd attempt it started drove then it intermittent starting now it doesn't start, if take the crankshaft sensor out to check it will any oil come out. 

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Does anyone know the voltage at the crankshaft sensor connector when unplugged 

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2008 is that a 2 or 3 pin sensor (it's a 2 pin iirc)

it's not powered just check the resistance 1.8k to 2.5k ohms

how much fuel is in the tank ??

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2 pin sensor (denso) did a ohms and test was getting OL. and volt test about 2.1v when it was disconnected did the same with the camshaft sensor Bosch 3 pin earth good other two was about 5.1v took cam sensor out and did test with my spanner touching on and off the sensor voltage was going up and down so I think that sensor is ok, the car has half a tank fuel in, I do appreciate you giving me advice. 

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Did you mean check the resistance while it was plugged in or disconnected, I did the test when it was removed and disconnected on the sensor. 

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that voltage on the crank sensor will be a phantom voltage

if you have an open on the crank sensor then it's dead (test the sensor unplugged)

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Yeah I tested the sensor removed and unplugged and the resistance was OL. And tested the wires unplugged that showed the voltage 

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I've just tested the crankshaft sensor with a new metre and a reading of 2.19/2.20 ohms, I had suspicion my other metre was faulty, is that reading ok

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is that 2.2 ohms or 2.2k ohms (2200 ohms)

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It'll be 2.2k as meter was set to this

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How do I check a 3 pin Bosch camshaft sensor and what reading should I get mine has the earth, red and orange wires. 

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