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Dead RAV after boost no EV


varastevens
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My RAV PHEV was dead earlier in the week.

I had to unlock it with the mechanical key to gain access to bonnet catch.

After 12volt boost on recommended fuse box 12 volt terminal it started with car alarm going etc .

I  then accessed the rear 12 volt Battery to charge then car would start to READY.

BUT NO EV  Message to visit dealer and engine warning and hybrid failure.

 Dealer fixed with reset but would not reveal how to reset  EV systems.

Does anybody Know how to reset systems?

Is it OBD task. if so with what and how?

i  

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Sorry to hear of the issue Victor with your PHEV and idea as to what caused the issue, low 12v Battery?

I don’t know how to do a EV reset but I’m sure all PHEV owners would like to know.

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Guys, you can buy a Carista or other obd 2 adapter and with good app you can literally get inside the car brain and see more stuff than you can do with the screen only , plus you can adjust settings for belt alarms , warning beeps, automated functions and best of all read codes like hybrid system malfunction and reset these. Don't know about ev reset but for others I can vouch since I used barista myself, really good adapter. 👍

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Thanks for response.

Has anybody used other OBD 2 Adapters without having to pay for apps for full access to rav4 phev codes, faults and reset functions?

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This residual drain on the 12Volt Battery with the car locked and not used for over a week is a real nuisance!!.

Especially if left in airport carpark for a couple of weeks.

The  YUASA Battery I charged with a NOCO20 to 13.13 volts after 8 days this fell to 11.44.

The following day the RAV was completely dead.

Is there any way to shut down all the accessories that cause this residual drain if they are not wanted?

For jump starting under the bonnet has any one used a NOCO gb20 jump starter?  

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30 minutes ago, varastevens said:

For jump starting under the bonnet has any one used a NOCO gb20 jump starter?  

I bought one for my C-HR which suffered from the same problem if not used for a couple of weeks and it started easily both times I used it. My understanding is that it doesn't actually need much power to start the car, it's not actually powering a starter motor.

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18 hours ago, varastevens said:

This residual drain on the 12Volt battery with the car locked and not used for over a week is a real nuisance!!.

Especially if left in airport carpark for a couple of weeks.

The  YUASA battery I charged with a NOCO20 to 13.13 volts after 8 days this fell to 11.44.

The following day the RAV was completely dead.

Is there any way to shut down all the accessories that cause this residual drain if they are not wanted?

For jump starting under the bonnet has any one used a NOCO gb20 jump starter?  

As Colin says, the tiddliest little 12v Li-ion Battery pack will do. In order to get the car into Ready mode it needs to detect that the brake pedal has been pressed (and the brakes are operational) and there won't be much electrical power needed to do that. Once in Ready mode the auxiliary Battery charges from the traction Battery and you are good to go.

Being really picky, all the Accessories  are shut-down when the car is Off - they power up only when the car is in Accessory or Ready mode. So the drain when the car is Off comes from the alarm system, the remote locking system, the SOS eCall system (used to remote control the PHEV) and the miniscule amounts needed to run the clock etc. and keep the electronic in stand-by.

Obviously you would need to add to that the drain from any user accessories fitted to the always on side of the ignition switch. The obvious candidate would be an incorrectly fitted dash cam ...

Annoyingly, Toyota don't appear to publish the current drain while the car is Off - we can only guess ... it is likely to be around 50mA and certainly should be less than 100mA. Toyota do say that being in Ready mode for around 60 minutes a week (so only 10 minutes a day) will keep the auxiliary battery fully charged - but again we can only guess at the charging rate.

We do know that the OEM battery is 45Ah. If the idle drain were 50mA it should last for 37.5 days; at 100mA that would come down to 18.75 days - so, either way, the car should happily stand idle for a fortnight; leave it for over a month and you should be expecting problems.

Obviously, a faulty battery would cause problems but the only remedy would be to fit a higher capacity battery. Either way, you still need to average out at 10 minutes in Ready mode per day ...

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5 hours ago, philip42h said:

As Colin says, the tiddliest little 12v Li-ion battery pack will do. In order to get the car into Ready mode it needs to detect that the brake pedal has been pressed (and the brakes are operational) and there won't be much electrical power needed to do that. Once in Ready mode the auxiliary battery charges from the traction battery and you are good to go.

Being really picky, all the Accessories  are shut-down when the car is Off - they power up only when the car is in Accessory or Ready mode. So the drain when the car is Off comes from the alarm system, the remote locking system, the SOS eCall system (used to remote control the PHEV) and the miniscule amounts needed to run the clock etc. and keep the electronic in stand-by.

Obviously you would need to add to that the drain from any user accessories fitted to the always on side of the ignition switch. The obvious candidate would be an incorrectly fitted dash cam ...

Annoyingly, Toyota don't appear to publish the current drain while the car is Off - we can only guess ... it is likely to be around 50mA and certainly should be less than 100mA. Toyota do say that being in Ready mode for around 60 minutes a week (so only 10 minutes a day) will keep the auxiliary battery fully charged - but again we can only guess at the charging rate.

We do know that the OEM battery is 45Ah. If the idle drain were 50mA it should last for 37.5 days; at 100mA that would come down to 18.75 days - so, either way, the car should happily stand idle for a fortnight; leave it for over a month and you should be expecting problems.

Obviously, a faulty battery would cause problems but the only remedy would be to fit a higher capacity battery. Either way, you still need to average out at 10 minutes in Ready mode per day ...

0.05 amps is maximum allowed this is to be measured 1 hour after shut down and with smart keys out of range and applies to all models except GT86 

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If I keep smart key out of range of car will that reduce drain.?

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On 8/27/2022 at 4:59 PM, varastevens said:

This residual drain on the 12Volt battery with the car locked and not used for over a week is a real nuisance!!.

Especially if left in airport carpark for a couple of weeks.

The  YUASA battery I charged with a NOCO20 to 13.13 volts after 8 days this fell to 11.44.

The following day the RAV was completely dead.

Is there any way to shut down all the accessories that cause this residual drain if they are not wanted?

For jump starting under the bonnet has any one used a NOCO gb20 jump starter?  

So the longest I've left mine was about 2 and a half weeks. Started no problems but I do not know what the 12v Battery state was the last time I used it. Imagine that only short trips and not often followed by leaving the car a week might push it over the edge?

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On 8/27/2022 at 4:59 PM, varastevens said:

For jump starting under the bonnet has any one used a NOCO gb20 jump starter

If anyone has been considered one of these, they have been on offer for the last few days on Amazon with £20 off the normal price. Currently £69.99.

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5 minutes ago, nlee said:

If anyone has been considered one of these, they have been on offer for the last few days on Amazon with £20 off the normal price. Currently £69.99.

Link?

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3 minutes ago, ernieb said:

Link?

Deal of the day: NOCO Boost Sport GB20 500A 12V UltraSafe Portable Lithium Jump Starter, Car Battery Booster Pack, USB Powerbank, and Jump Leads for up to 4.0 Liter Petrol Engines https://amzn.eu/d/3UtqZLC

PS. This is more than enough for a hybrid and small petrol car but if you have a second car that's a diesel, it might be better to go for the next size up.

Edited by nlee
Added PS.
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On 8/31/2022 at 7:35 AM, nlee said:

Deal of the day: NOCO Boost Sport GB20 500A 12V UltraSafe Portable Lithium Jump Starter, Car Battery Booster Pack, USB Powerbank, and Jump Leads for up to 4.0 Liter Petrol Engines https://amzn.eu/d/3UtqZLC

PS. This is more than enough for a hybrid and small petrol car but if you have a second car that's a diesel, it might be better to go for the next size up.

Ordered one and it arrived today - impressed with its quality (will probably get more use on my MGB though 😀). Thanks for the heads up.

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20 hours ago, Lawnmowerman said:

Ordered one and it arrived today - impressed with its quality (will probably get more use on my MGB though 😀). Thanks for the heads up.

Definitely, really good quality. I bought the case as well which is really well built, far better than you'd probably expect for a product like this.

Only had to use it as a torch for now but it'll be there if/when I need it.

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22 hours ago, nlee said:

Definitely, really good quality. I bought the case as well which is really well built, far better than you'd probably expect for a product like this.

Only had to use it as a torch for now but it'll be there if/when I need it.

Thought about the box for a nano-second and then thought - nah.

I'll get a Lock'n'Lock box from the Kitchen department on Wednesday when back at work.

Cheapskate me? - don't you know there is a war on 🤣.

 

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On 8/29/2022 at 4:00 PM, ernieb said:

The key goes to sleep when it’s not moving.

That's a news for me. Are you saying the car is not vulnerable for a keyless car theft, as the key is not transmitting when not moving?

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As far as I know if the key is not transmitting it can not be cloned. There are plenty of RFI screening pouches that are designed to screen the key if it’s transmitting to stop it being cloned.

I use a pouch and the key is motionless whilst it’s in the house, double protection.

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At least some keys stop transmitting when not moving but I still use a pouch plus if your key is located far away from doors and windows let say 3 meters then a signal cannot be picked up if you on a older type of vehicle or a new vehicle and you just come in.

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Its posable you spiked the system when jump starting it.

If its parked up outside you can use a solar panel to keep the Battery charged.

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