Help! Hazard Warning Lights Problem...

April 4, 2003

Hi,

Wondering if anyone on here can help - I've got a Carina E 1.6GLi, K-reg. The indicators work fine, but the Hazards don't work at all - though the switch appears to be working, as it cuts off the indicators when it's pressed in... The Hazards fuse under the bonnet is also intact, so I'm guessing it must be the flasher unit or something...

Anyone got a clue where it might be, so I can run some tests on it? Before my MOT next month :(

Any help much appreciated!

Cheers,

Stu

April 4, 2003

From memory I think its behind kick panel on drivers side :)

Good luck

April 4, 2003

Hazards & flashers run through same unit, so if flashers work it's not your unit.

Basically, your hazard switch is fed from fuse, switch then sends signal to flasher unit when pressed, unit then sends signal back to hazard switch & then to flasher lamps.

Therefore, it is most likely to be your hazard switch which is faulty.

Let me know how you get on.

<_<

April 4, 2003

You're quite right that it's not the flasher unit... After spending about an hour staring at the Haynes manual's circuit diagram I managed to work out what was going on, and that it must be the switch at fault. 'cept that it's not...

The switch has 2 inputs and one output for 12v+ - pin 8 is continuous 12v, from the Battery, via the Hazard fuse in the Engine compartment; pin 10 is 12v from the "ON" terminal of the ignition switch, via the Indicators fuse in the Passenger compartment.

When the Hazard switch is off, it connects pin 10 (green+red wire) to pin 7 (white and red wire, which is the power supply to the flasher unit). When the Hazard switch is on, pin 8 (white wire) is connected to pin 7 instead. I tried shorting out these connections, and lo and behold, it works when 10-7 is shorted, but not when 8-7 is shorted. Bugger. Suggests that there's not 12v in my white wire, though I haven't got a multimeter to test it with...

Another question then:

1) If I haven't got 12v in my white wire, does anyone know what route the wire takes to the Engine fusebox (looks nightmarish to me).

Cheers

Stu

April 6, 2003

Your fuse in fuse box is supplied from permanent live off vehicle Battery circuit.

This is protected by a main fuse, which will be located in same fuse box, but will serve other functions such as cigar lighter & other functions that will operate without key in Ignition cylinder.

Check your diagram to determine which one this is & check if fuse has blown. If not, check hazard fuse by swapping with another of same rating. If all is OK you will need to check circuit from fuse box to switch. This usually runs through bulkhead to behind glovebox, where you will find a junction connector off your Dash harness. You will need to check continuity & more essentially if you have power to this circuit.

A simple test lamp will confirm if you have power, they only cost around £4 from any motor factor.

Keep me informed on your progress.

April 8, 2003

It was definitely a high-resistance connection somewhere between the fusebox and the switch, as the permanent positive supply registered 12v at the switch until the switch was pressed, when it dropped to 1v. Couldn't find where the dodgy connection was, in the end gave up, took the Hazard fuse out, cut the wire and used some terminal block to nick 12v from my radio's permanent supply (which is also covered by 15A fuse) - and it works perfectly. Bodged, yes, but it'll pass its MOT B)