engine running problem 4zz-fe E11 Corolla

[michael broad]

Hi my 2000 Toyota Corolla 1.4gs vvti 4zz-fe engine has suddenly developed a problem when i change from 1st into 2nd and accelerate the engine starts chugging(spluttering) especially going up an incline,no engine warning light has come on,recently changed air filter as was dirty,also idling fluctuates when started from cold TIA

[APS]

This sounds like fuel starvation when petrol shifts to the rear of the tank. Change the fuel filter. If that doesn't make any difference, inspect the fuel tank. You could have water and rust in the fuel tank that blocks the pickup.

[michael broad]

6 minutes ago, APS said:

This sounds like fuel starvation when petrol shifts to the rear of the tank. Change the fuel filter. If that doesn't make any difference, inspect the fuel tank. You could have water and rust in the fuel tank that blocks the pickup.

Thanks for reply in the haynes manual they state that only the non vvti models had fuel filters?

[michael broad]

Thanks for reply in the haynes manual they state that only the non vvti models had fuel filters?

[APS]

There will be a filter somewhere. However, I think that on some models, Toyota put the filter alongside the fuel pump inside the tank and considered the filter as a 'lifetime' part. If there is no filter in the engine compartment then it will most likely be inside the tank. 

Just to verify the theory of sludge / water in the tank - you can check if the problem is more pronounced when turning a certain direction, going up or down hills, accelerating or braking. Also, these kinds of problems get worse when there is very little fuel left in the tank. I know you gave some details of your own analysis, but it can be good to try to provoke the problem to confirm the diagnosis. 

[michael broad]

Thanks i usually have a quarter of tank full or just over most of the time it usually happens on slight inclines and sometimes on the flat,somebody else mentioned it could be the maf sensor? maybe i should get it plugged into diagnostic computer see if any codes come up first

[michael broad]

14 minutes ago, APS said:

There will be a filter somewhere. However, I think that on some models, Toyota put the filter alongside the fuel pump inside the tank and considered the filter as a 'lifetime' part. If there is no filter in the engine compartment then it will most likely be inside the tank. 

Just to verify the theory of sludge / water in the tank - you can check if the problem is more pronounced when turning a certain direction, going up or down hills, accelerating or braking. Also, these kinds of problems get worse when there is very little fuel left in the tank. I know you gave some details of your own analysis, but it can be good to try to provoke the problem to confirm the diagnosis. 

Thanks i usually have a quarter of tank full or just over most of the time it usually happens on slight inclines and sometimes on the flat,somebody else mentioned it could be the maf sensor? maybe i should get it plugged into diagnostic computer see if any codes come up first

 

[APS]

Could be the MAF - or anything related to the fuel system - although, they normally give more consistent symptoms.

Again, try running the tank a bit lower on fuel and provoke it on steep hills etc. Do be sensible though and consider vehicles around you. If it is a sludge problem the engine may cut out completely. It should be possible to restart it again. 

Yes, it's worth looking for error codes. However, it may not log anything for lack of fuel feed, but may show up as low fuel pressure.

[michael broad]

3 minutes ago, APS said:

Could be the MAF - or anything related to the fuel system - although, they normally give more consistent symptoms.

Again, try running the tank a bit lower on fuel and provoke it on steep hills etc. Do be sensible though and consider vehicles around you. If it is a sludge problem the engine may cut out completely. It should be possible to restart it again. 

Yes, it's worth looking for error codes. However, it may not log anything for lack of fuel feed, but may show up as low fuel pressure.

Thanks very much for your help been very useful

 

[flash22]

Take the plugs out clean and re gap them or replace them - a poor spark under load will cause an incomplete burn cycle reducing power

given the age, make sure there is no oil down the spark plug holes

is it a Jap or UK built car ?

[Emmett.Corolla]

It dose sound like a spark problem to me I had a coil give up on me also new spark plugs. 

[michael broad]

16 hours ago, flash22 said:

Take the plugs out clean and re gap them or replace them - a poor spark under load will cause an incomplete burn cycle reducing power

given the age, make sure there is no oil down the spark plug holes

is it a Jap or UK built car ?

Not sure how do you tell mate what country it's built in?

[TonyHSD]

Hi, 

the symptoms you have points towards fuel filter. Good to check on that. I am not sure on your car if it’s built in the fuel pump housing or outside the tank but 20+ years old car this should be checked and changed. Spark plugs if old too. 

[APS]

30 minutes ago, michael broad said:

Not sure how do you tell mate what country it's built in?

Look at your VIN. If it starts with a 'J' = Japan, 'S' = UK

[Gerg]

We have a near-identical car, it's a 2001 1.4 vvt-i.

The car has 140,000 miles on it.  We have had it from new.

Three of the four ignition coils have failed, the first one about 5 years ago.  These would normally put an error code in the ECU, and usually (but not always quickly) an engine management error light on the dash.

The coils are easily seen after the black plastic decorative cover is removed off the top of the engine. If it's a 'liftback' (hatchback with big boot), then it'll be UK-made and the coils are Bosch-branded when new, and will clearly have this written on their upper face. 

You might look to see if any your coils have been replaced i.e. probably no longer Bosch-branded.  Obviously, only replace one if you have evidence of a defect!  (Logged error code etc.)  But on our car we only have one 'original' coil fitted now.  And the replacements (NGK, Interpart) are working fine.

I'm not saying that your problem isn't what has been suggested by other posters above, just to be aware that the coils don't last forever...

The main dealer price for a coil is nearly £200, an aftermarket one can be bought (an NGK branded one, even!) for around £50, if it was that.

With age, the wiring loom to the coils can get a little fragile and easily damaged.  And the coil connections to the loom are very stiff  to remove.  If you can, try to give the loom an 'easy time of it'; some owners, I understand, have had breaks occur inside the insulation. 

When checking the condition of the spark plugs, it might be easier and quicker to remove the securing fasteners to that  loom and remove the coil whilst still connected, especially the last spark plug, nearest the 12v Battery, which has a tightly bent, short loom, with limited length on the cable.

The 3-door cars and the estates are made in Japan, IIRC, if you have one of those, quite a few of the parts can be slightly different to the (more common) UK-made liftbacks.

The only other problem we have ever had with the car, was the idle contol valve misbehaving for a couple of minutes after a cold start (stalling engine and later an error code; car drove fine when in motion).  This was about 8 years ago.

Replacing  the valve with one from a scrapyard fixed this immediately; cleaning it up didn't make any difference.  This is a rare fault, I suspect.  (In this case, a stepper motor made by Denso, in Japan.  Who'd have guessed that?!) But this does't sound like your problem.

[michael broad]

6 hours ago, APS said:

Look at your VIN. If it starts with a 'J' = Japan, 'S' = UK

Starts with an S mate

[michael broad]

6 hours ago, APS said:

Look at your VIN. If it starts with a 'J' = Japan, 'S' = UK

Starts with an S mate

[michael broad]

On 9/22/2022 at 4:33 PM, flash22 said:

Take the plugs out clean and re gap them or replace them - a poor spark under load will cause an incomplete burn cycle reducing power

given the age, make sure there is no oil down the spark plug holes

is it a Jap or UK built car ?

SB So japanese

[michael broad]

7 hours ago, Gerg said:

We have a near-identical car, it's a 2001 1.4 vvt-i.

The car has 140,000 miles on it.  We have had it from new.

Three of the four ignition coils have failed, the first one about 5 years ago.  These would normally put an error code in the ECU, and usually (but not always quickly) an engine management error light on the dash.

The coils are easily seen after the black plastic decorative cover is removed off the top of the engine. If it's a 'liftback' (hatchback with big boot), then it'll be UK-made and the coils are Bosch-branded when new, and will clearly have this written on their upper face. 

You might look to see if any your coils have been replaced i.e. probably no longer Bosch-branded.  Obviously, only replace one if you have evidence of a defect!  (Logged error code etc.)  But on our car we only have one 'original' coil fitted now.  And the replacements (NGK, Interpart) are working fine.

I'm not saying that your problem isn't what has been suggested by other posters above, just to be aware that the coils don't last forever...

The main dealer price for a coil is nearly £200, an aftermarket one can be bought (an NGK branded one, even!) for around £50, if it was that.

With age, the wiring loom to the coils can get a little fragile and easily damaged.  And the coil connections to the loom are very stiff  to remove.  If you can, try to give the loom an 'easy time of it'; some owners, I understand, have had breaks occur inside the insulation. 

When checking the condition of the spark plugs, it might be easier and quicker to remove the securing fasteners to that  loom and remove the coil whilst still connected, especially the last spark plug, nearest the 12v battery, which has a tightly bent, short loom, with limited length on the cable.

The 3-door cars and the estates are made in Japan, IIRC, if you have one of those, quite a few of the parts can be slightly different to the (more common) UK-made liftbacks.

The only other problem we have ever had with the car, was the idle contol valve misbehaving for a couple of minutes after a cold start (stalling engine and later an error code; car drove fine when in motion).  This was about 8 years ago.

Replacing  the valve with one from a scrapyard fixed this immediately; cleaning it up didn't make any difference.  This is a rare fault, I suspect.  (In this case, a stepper motor made by Denso, in Japan.  Who'd have guessed that?!) But this does't sound like your problem.

Thanks for info mate chassis number begins with SB which i've been informed from members on here that it's a Jap built car.

[flash22]

See my signature

SB1 - UK

JT - Japan