Toyota rav 4 iii - electric problem

[SommerIvriRav4]

I have a weird one. 
Toyota rav 4 iii diesel turbo 2005-2010 (133)

I have been trying to fix the problems of my rav4 for a couple of months. 
 

General info. The car was bought second hand, the ecu is manipulated. It had gone through a dpf delete, and mileage was for sure changed, all of this i found out after purchase. 
 

The car now runs a new dpf and a new turbo, after these changes it drove well for a couple of months. But had very little power under 2,000 . 
 

then came a limp mode (without a code) coming again and again when throttle is open.  Looks like turbo overboost. Because of the low power on low revs and other issues i changed the egr valve (no help) 

also changed all filters. 
 

the car was at more then one official toyota garages in germany but as they could not get a diagnosis (no code) they all gave up and said i should get rid of it.  On top of it all the cruse works occasionally and sometimes won’t switch on at all. 
 

last and most important detail- 

i have recently noticed that the car drives completely well when it rains and the road is wet. It has complete power, doesnt go into limp, and cruse works. Just perfectly functional. This brings me to the theory that a bad e connection is the cause of it all. 
 

my question, which wiring area or part in the car is low enough to get wet when driving and would cause the cruse to not work + engine to not run currectly. 
 

Any help is very appreciated. 

[flash22]

2AD-FTV or FHV? an electrical fault would be made worse in the wet

do you have a scan tool ? check the intake air temp, MAP, mass air flow, and coolant temperature

colder air is denser

 

As for cruise control, the car needs to meet certain criterial to enable it

when was the fuel filter and air filter last changed ?

Has the ecu been re-flashed to factory settings ?

 

[SommerIvriRav4]

im sorry i don’t understand the first question. I can add the vin number. 
it is a 2.0 liter diesel turbo
 

No the ecu is not re-flashed. I wouldn’t know how to do that and in Toyota they said it’s impossible : 0 . 
 

air and fuel filter were changed before less then 100 kilometres. 

[SommerIvriRav4]

it was scanned many times in many garages and i dont have a scanner of my own. Just a multimeter and two hands. 
the scanner shows dpf always at 750 degrees even when cold, and ideal results everywhere even though it’s obviously not the case.

 

[SommerIvriRav4]

Can it not be that a loose connection is made better through water? You mean its and air intake problem?

[Dippy]

Water conducts electricity better. That’s the extent of my knowledge!

[SommerIvriRav4]

Ya that is my thought process, on top of it, the engine behaves completely different in these conditions.  As i said, without water it seems to be dead untill 2,000 and then it suddenly has way too much power. With wet conditions it is smoothly delivery power from the beginning (obviously becoming stronger at 2,000 but not suddenly. Turbo starts working at around 1,4000 and everything works perfectly. It also has to do with wet- not cold conditions. Cold and dry is bad .. wet and warm is perfectly good.  
 

im still thinking that a loose connection might be the cause of it all. Are there any active valves or electricity harnesses that can get wet while driving? In the lower parts of the motor? Either this or o2 sensors with the same problem. Could that not be the case?