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Toyota Yaris MK4 not starting after curtain airbags deployed


James16777
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14 hours ago, TonyHSD said:

Well, the dealer advice may secure or may not a future business with the car owner. The service department can at least give a quick suggestions about the problem and first insight. Perhaps will be very different approach by the different dealers. 

“Steven Eagell St. Albans branch” for example  I visited once and talked to the service department, the man was very polite, he invited me in , took the car details, loaded them into the system and after a 5 min chat he realised I am a diy mechanic and he gave me all valuable information and suggested what should I double check and what do I need to do myself to fix the car. He also gave me a quote  if I want to go ahead with them and let them work on the car instead. At the end he said very honestly, “ to save money and time , simply do all the things yourself and if you still have issues afterwards, you are welcome to book an appointment and we will take care of your car” , this is what I would call a professional approach. Well done 👍 

Since that day I always buy parts from them and they deliver promptly next day. 

 I might have to try them, they sound much better than my local ones!! :laugh: 

 

3 hours ago, James16777 said:

Doesn’t matter they should still give you some insight of what it could be as i always go there to buy any parts that are needed a bit of advice won’t make the business go bankrupt

To be fair they probably don't even know themselves! The Mk4 is quite new and I doubt most dealer mechanics are very experienced with any problems with them that are outside routine servicing.

 

3 hours ago, James16777 said:

I am not sure when i charge the 12v battery and put it back the car runs fine the engine turns and idles as normal but then after 5 mins the car shuts of and displays an error about 12v battery being low.

Is the 12v Battery actually low when it does that? It sounds like driving a car with a failed alternator...

I wonder if there is something wrong with the DC-DC converter and it's not supplying power to the 12v system at all...!

Can you see if the car is actually supplying power to the 12v system or is it just running purely off the 12v Battery?

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10 hours ago, Cyker said:

 I might have to try them, they sound much better than my local ones!! :laugh: 

 

To be fair they probably don't even know themselves! The Mk4 is quite new and I doubt most dealer mechanics are very experienced with any problems with them that are outside routine servicing.

 

Is the 12v battery actually low when it does that? It sounds like driving a car with a failed alternator...

I wonder if there is something wrong with the DC-DC converter and it's not supplying power to the 12v system at all...!

Can you see if the car is actually supplying power to the 12v system or is it just running purely off the 12v battery?

No the 12v batter would be full and then the car will turn on fine for about 5 minutes it drives as well but then message comes up saying 12v batter low pull over so the 12v Battery has no energy supply to it.

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Sound like you have blown the fusible link or 2

 

both doors been replaced ? what did the new doors come off of ? What spec car and what spec is yours

do you have power to the window motors, has it actually been plugged in behind the kick panel on the A pillar

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Fusible links are on the 12v positive Battery terminal, you need to flip the red cover, up to see the links be aware this has multiple fuses in it from 5a to 140a

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3 hours ago, flash22 said:

Sound like you have blown the fusible link or 2

 

both doors been replaced ? what did the new doors come off of ? What spec car and what spec is yours

do you have power to the window motors, has it actually been plugged in behind the kick panel on the A pillar

Only front door and wing was replaced with Toyota genuine parts from dealer and the spec is dynamic 

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3 hours ago, flash22 said:

Sound like you have blown the fusible link or 2

 

both doors been replaced ? what did the new doors come off of ? What spec car and what spec is yours

do you have power to the window motors, has it actually been plugged in behind the kick panel on the A pillar

Also no power to the windows, entertainment system and interior lights

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3 hours ago, flash22 said:

Fusible links are on the 12v positive battery terminal, you need to flip the red cover, up to see the links be aware this has multiple fuses in it from 5a to 140a

I haven’t checked this would i just be looking for blown fuses?

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You can check the DC to DC converter for charging the Battery the 12.5 volts of the Battery will go up to 13.8 to 14 volts.

You can use a multimeter set on 20 volts or higher range or use a device thats plugs into a 12 volt socket.

Multimeter is more useful for fault finding and checking fuses.

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Maybe its time to disconnect electrics to one or two doors to see if its a cross wire fault in a door plug.

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3 minutes ago, James16777 said:

I haven’t checked this would i just be looking for blown fuses?

Yes the high current links are metal, the low current ones are standard fuses

 

when checking fuses there are 2 boxes under the bonnet and one inside the car in the glove box area accessed from the footwell (drop the trim down, then they are under a cover), iirc there is a small one in the boot as well

check the fusible links

i will be happy to diag the other systems with you

 

 

 

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4 minutes ago, flash22 said:

Yes the high current links are metal, the low current ones are standard fuses

 

when checking fuses there are 2 boxes under the bonnet and one inside the car in the glove box area accessed from the footwell (drop the trim down, then they are under a cover), iirc there is a small one in the boot as well

check the fusible links

i will be happy to diag the other systems with you

 

 

 

I appreciate it so much mate and I have checked the fuses under the bonnet and dashboard they’re all fine I just need to check the one at the boot and the 12v positive terminal behind the red cover.

 

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5 minutes ago, Derek.w said:

Maybe its time to disconnect electrics to one or two doors to see if its a cross wire fault in a door plug.

What do you mean mate.

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A second look not sure if they are all used, the low current fuses on the Battery terminal are....................

10a - PCU-RR (Power Control Unit)

5a -Batt-S No1

5a - Batt-S No2

 

Pcu is related to the 12v power control, boost converter, inverter and DC-DC

Batt-S is Battery signal

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8 minutes ago, flash22 said:

A second look not sure if they are all used, the low current fuses on the battery terminal are....................

10a - PCU-RR (Power Control Unit)

5a -Batt-S No1

5a - Batt-S No2

 

Pcu is related to the 12v power control, boost converter, inverter and DC-DC

Batt-S is battery signal

I’ll have a look at them now thank you

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Brake down the system into smaller components parts disconnect electrics to doors then work on the larger faults like Battery not lasting more than 5 minutes get it working then add door electrics one at a time.

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1 hour ago, Derek.w said:

Brake down the system into smaller components parts disconnect electrics to doors then work on the larger faults like battery not lasting more than 5 minutes get it working then add door electrics one at a time.

In a word, No

The elephant in the room is the Battery not charging, if it has dropped capacity as soon as the current rises the voltage drops, it will be enough to light the dash but not pull in the contactor(s) also the Battery has current detection

Pick a circuit and diag it, powers and grounds to start

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I do hope the OP gets this sorted but this thread should serve as a warning to anyone thinking of buying a damaged car to put back on the road, back in the day unscrupulous garages would cut cars in half and weld them back together and they were so simple to work on they would work fine afterwards (as you didn't crash) today's cars are a different kettle of fish.

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Well in the old days you just needed some mechanical nouce; Now you need to have an electricians qualification and a programming degree too :laugh: 

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Really needs a proper diagnostic check to see which vehicle systems are ok & which are reporting faults, at least that would be some help to pinpoint where to start looking for the fault / faults. 

I know certain EV have a way to disable the HV side to make the system safe for Trumpton & such like to work around, I wonder if this Yaris is similar or it's gone in to some kind of protected mode due to airbag deployment? 

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That's my feeling too; I read somewhere modern cars have a killswitch that's triggered when the airbags go off and that has to be reset, but don't know how much truth is in that as they never elaborate on how to reset this killswitch!!

 

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2 minutes ago, Cyker said:

That's my feeling too; I read somewhere modern cars have a killswitch that's triggered when the airbags go off and that has to be reset, but don't know how much truth is in that as they never elaborate on how to reset this killswitch!!

 

AFAIK a lot of vehicle manufacturers now link that function in to the airbag ECU.

Can't remember when I last saw a mechanical type fuel inertia cut off switch on a modern vehicle.

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i have been talking to the op, there are various unrelated circuits that don't work inc the obd2

I just found a fusible link that covers a few circuits in the passenger side under bonnet fuse box so that needs checking - Mk4 tech info is thin on the ground unless you pay for it - it would be nice to find what the fusible link covers

82620-K0040

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I didn't necessarily mean a physical killswitch, but e.g. when the airbag goes off it sets a flag in the ECU so the ECU knows the airbag has gone off and cuts off other functions until the flag is reset.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Quick update for all you guys car is fixed but still need to reset the Airbag ecu because i still have loads of lights on the dashboard, if any of you guys know any place that can reset the ECU for 70 plate Yaris dynamic drop a message please.

also I appreciate all your comments and helping me through this process.

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7 minutes ago, James16777 said:

Quick update for all you guys car is fixed but still need to reset the Airbag ecu because i still have loads of lights on the dashboard, if any of you guys know any place that can reset the ECU for 70 plate Yaris dynamic drop a message please.

also I appreciate all your comments and helping me through this process.

But the boot wont still open am not sure why.

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