Rear foglight not working MK1 Yaris

[flash22]

Time to replace the light................. £95 new

[Yaristotle]

23 hours ago, stantheman1 said:

The bulb holder on the right is badly worn and needs replacing but can be fixed as a temporary measure by prying out the contact points so that a physical connection can be made.

I should have made clear that the bulbholder on the right is actually a spare. In addition to the point you raise the slots for the ‘lugs’ on the bulb are not diametrically opposite so it is difficult to get a bulb in place and then impossible to remove without breakage. S0 this item will be dustbinned.

[Yaristotle]

7 hours ago, flash22 said:

Time to replace the light................. £95 new

Anyway, the issue is resolved for the moment. It was only upon fully removing the light unit from the car that I could appreciate the problem. The section of conductive strip had come adrift from its fixing so when the bulbholder is popped into place and turned slightly clockwise the contact fails to connect with the strip. No idea why this has happened but perhaps I was too heavy-handed on a previous bulb change, though, it would have worked at the time. As a temporary measure I have implemented a rather unpleasant bodge using a tightly fixed cable-tie to pull the strip onto the contact. This should suffice for the MOT but I will do something more definitive in the next couple of weeks, perhaps soldering in a 50mm or so section of 5 amp cable twixt contact and strip.

Replacing the light is entirely reasonable. I think you can obtain a light unit from Autodoc or some such for around £45 - £60, but I would not begrudge £95 as the car does not owe me a penny. Is £95 for a Toyota item, do you know?

I wanted to post a video of the wobbly strip but cannot see how this is done. No worries.

Thanks to everybody for all the advice.

 

 

 

[Derek.w]

So bulb works with jump leads attached so look at bending the contacts out slightly.

You can also use your meter on low ohms to check that the track is making contact with the its mating part. DONOT USE OHMS SETTING WITH POWER FROM CAR Battery TO LIGHT.

If you have to to gain access to the electrode you testing use a multi core wire and thin out the ends and insert this onto copper track.

[flash22]

28 minutes ago, Derek.w said:

So bulb works with jump leads attached so look at bending the contacts out slightly.

You can also use your meter on low ohms to check that the track is making contact with the its mating part. DONOT USE OHMS SETTING WITH POWER FROM CAR BATTERY TO LIGHT.

If you have to to gain access to the electrode you testing use a multi core wire and thin out the ends and insert this onto copper track.

We have diag'd the issue, replacement light required, its not copper, its galv coated stamped steel its a pig to solder you will melt the plastic before anything else

 

[Derek.w]

No need to solder inserting a copper wire is just for test perposes.

It just wont solder unless you use a stanless steel flux and that corosive but its not for electrical circuits.

Once you know what contact is faulty you can decide bend it or make your own jump lead from just pressure contact on bulb ground to copper wire contact going to plug wire on harness or just any earth point you choose.

[Jimota]

Well, I’ve thoroughly enjoyed following this topic.  I have no electrical knowledge or experience but it was good to see everyone offering their viewpoint and trying to come to a successful conclusion.  Best of all was the eureka moment at the end!

Cheers