Info on Yaris 1NR-FE throttle 22030-47010

[AlfiePJ]

Hi there, I've trawled the web and here but with no success.... does anyone have any tech info or details on any bulletins about the function and/or setup of the above (or similar Denso) throttle bodies?

I'm having a driveability issue at very small pedal positions, where it's abrupt when the throttle seems to close and open .... the final bit of deceleration and first bit of acceleration isn't smooth. I'll add that I have changed almost all the other engine sensors and actuators (for a multitude of reasons) and so am only asking about the throttle body.

I've tinkered with other throttles in the past, mainly cleaning and replacing position sensors, and maybe adjustment of the throttle stop.  But this Denso design is unusual in that there seems to be a throttle stop (grub screw onto black segment in attached pictures) for the conventional 'idle' position - i.e. open a very small amount. The return spring closes against this stop, with the motor having to work in one direction to open the butterfly.

But there is an additional 'almost closed' stop (grub screw on beige segment) where the motor has to drive in the opposite direction to seemingly fully close the butterfly.

My assumption (and it's just that) is that this 'closed' position is related to the EGR system, in working to reduce the fresh air during opening of the EGR (and that the closing function is also not to prevent overrun on engine shut-off like on some diesels).

I'm not sure if the set-up of these stops is causing my driveability issues.

Any tech info greatly appreciated, thanks.

Alf

[paul9]

Could it need a throttle position relearn? Can you see any flutter on the valve when it is idling, or snapped to shut from being revved?

[AlfiePJ]

Hi Paul,

After cleaning or tinkering (or after changing any engine sensors) I use Techstream to 'reset learned values' (I think it's called) and it seems to settle quickly. Also, idle is stable under all circumstances. I don't think it's possible to physically look at the butterfly when the engine is running, as removing the inlet hose to take a peek also takes the MAF sensor out for the loop, and the car gets confused. I was thinking of butchering another s/hand inlet hose to allow an endoscope to view the butterfly while the car is running, but have never done this!

I'll maybe take a note of the butterfly gaps using feeler blades, and then open them up a tiny amount and retry.

I've seen other cars suffer from gear wear which causes issues, but again I've not seen any reference to this on Toyotas or Denso kit...

Cheers...

[flash22]

i would suspect a dead spot in the pedal TBH it's just worn with age/mileage or the grease has gone hard, rather than a mechanical issue

[AlfiePJ]

Hi Bob, thanks for this.

I'd already stripped the pedal assembly a while ago expecting to find something, but there's nothing to wear or adjust.... it was almost identical to this one... so my hunch is the pedal isn't the issue. The spring is strong and the action is smooth.

If the weather improves, I'll take the throttle off again and look more closely at any gear/shaft wear within the throttle body...

Thanks again

Alf

 

[flash22]

In the video is a hall effect pedal, some cars had the wiper/carbon track setup - that still doesn't mean the pedal bushing/pivot is running true what will affect the sensors field

It may need an ecu firmware update (Cal update)

xp130 1nr THROTTLE BODY.pdf

xp130 1nr THROTTLE pedal.pdf

XP130 1nz P0120, P0121, P0122, P0123, P0220, P0222, P0223, P2135.pdf

 

being a 1.33 does it burn any oil ??

[flash22]

Re-reading your first post, the TB and TP may be red herrings

check the resistance of vvti OCV's - there is also an OCV filter but is a pig to get at on the 1NR these can sludge up if you don't keep up on maintenance you should be able to back flush it with the OCV's removed (rag in one and flush, swap to the other and flush)

OCV's can cause the very symptoms you describe as the revs come down the cams don't adjust quickly enough, staying advanced and as you give it throttle again the cams are still advanced and the engine falls on its face, it's more pronounced with WOT snaps what will sometimes cause the engine to stall coming off the throttle

[AlfiePJ]

Bob, thanks for your help in digging out this info on the TB and TP, it's greatly appreciated.

I've tinkered a lot with this car and changed many parts, mainly as it's a hobby (/obsession) of mine.... but it had occurred to me that the VVTI system was one area where I'm unable to determine the true condition of the mechanical system (filters and the variators - not sure of correct terminology on Toyotas. Plus I don't really know  the intricacies of the system - I'd assumed that it was only effective at higher RPM and so might not have caused my low RPM driveability issues?

Luckily, the car had full dealer service history for its 88k miles before I got it. It doesn't consume any oil at all. And I'm running it on some branded 0W-20 stuff right now. And again, mainly because I could, I've already changed the inlet and exh OCVs. Incidentally, I always use original parts, OEM parts, or other top brands when it's obvious that the item is really an OEM in a different box (e.g., a Lemark EGR valve was actually an AISIN unit for a fraction of the price, and the Febi OCVs looked identical to the units I removed, not sure of the actual manufacturer...).

Re the VVTI.... I'd seen elsewhere that the OCV filters we a swine to do, under the cam cover and another cap, from memory? I'd be interested to get more details of your flushing technique. Has it proved successful in your experience? And it had occurred to me that the variators are for sale in plenty of places, so they must fail/wear over time, but I really didn't want to entertain the idea of changing them! Would these be likely to give bother, considering the full service history?

Anyhow, thanks again for your help with the info you've provided, you clearly have experience in this area. What is your background out of interest?

Regards

Alf

PS, it is acceptable to place many images in these posts, or is it frowned upon? I thought my photos might of interest to others...

[paul9]

Pics are always welcome. It could turn the thread into a very helpful tutorial. 😉

[flash22]

iirc the OCV filter lives under the cam end cap/cam bearing cap

Febi - is Bilstein aka BluePrint

Pictures - resize them before uploading them instead of 3-5MB you can crop and resize the same image to <100kb

if you don't have the resize of the right click, you can download Windows Powertoys in the Microsoft Store or from GitHub

Direct link Windows 64 bit - https://github.com/microsoft/PowerToys/releases/download/v0.66.0/PowerToysSetup-0.66.0-x64.exe

GitHub repo - https://github.com/microsoft/PowerToys/releases/tag/v0.66.0

[AlfiePJ]

Re pics, I placed a load under this thread.... 

 

 

[AlfiePJ]

Just a general update on suspected throttle issue. I've fitted another, lower mileage (allegedly!) unit, and it certainly seems better in terms of on/off harshness and general driveability. Both old and new motor resistances were ~2ohms, so consistent, and within the specs listed above.

However, more noticeable is that instead, a rapid release of part throttle/higher revs seems even harsher, so as Bob suggested, I might go looking at those OCV filters.

I've had a closer look at parts on eBay, and it appears that they are accessible under the cam cover, so I'll take a look at some point soon. I'll get a replacement gasket as well. I am planning to clean the filters, they appear to be metal gauze. I have access to a ultrasonic cleaner.

I'm not fully sure of the VVTi system, as the OCVs only seem to have one Oring, so I don't know quite how they function re inlet/outlet and how the oil flow is controlled into the variators. 

And I'm not sure of the function of the filter; is it to protect the solenoids or the variators, or both?!

I'll keep digging online for a schematic or decent explanation....

Cheers again all...

[flash22]

What oil do you use ??

https://toyota-club.net/files/faq/16-01-01_faq_vvt_dual_eng.htm

[AlfiePJ]

Hi again Bob, thanks for sending this link. Explains things very well, I understand the system a lot better now, much appreciated.

The features visible in the above photo makes sense, with two outlet ports feeding thru the cam journal and into either side (advance/!Removed!) of the variators.

And so the filter is on the inlet to the solenoid, protecting everything downstream, which would make sense.

At my most recent service, I actually looked in the manual and used the recommended 0W20 (A Petronas product), whereas I'd used a 5W previously.

And before services I tend to use that Comma oil flush you can leave in for a week or so. Luckily the car had full dealer service, and the oil was very clean before I got it.

I plan on pulling the cam cover off this evening, for a peek at those filters. I'd expect to see any debris on the underside of them.

I'll update on here with any findings....

Thanks again

***Oh, by the way, could anyone please provide a Toyota P/N for the filters if they're able? SY13 JTX. It just occurred to me that the elastomer sealing element around it may be permanently deformed (not being new) and may not seal properly on reassembly, causing a pressure drop just where I don't want one!... thanks ***

***Edit, may have found it....11159-47010?

[AlfiePJ]

For anyone who's interested, I inspected the OCV filters last night. A small amount of debris in one of them, but largely spotless. I've ordered new ones and a rocker gasket, as they've lost their rubberosity in the last 10 years. 

As an aside, it occurred to me when looking at the top of the head that I couldn't immediately see what lubricated the cams.... then I saw the integrated spray bars on the underside of the cam cover. So the sealing from the head to this would also be critical, hence new gasket as well.  The outlet holes in the cam spray are tiny, and reiterates why we should be regularly changing our oil for the correct type!

Some pics attached to help others.

As for my off-throttle sharpness, I'm at a loss. Having seen the general good state of things, I'm inclined to think the cam variators are fine.

Cheers.

[bathtub tom]

20 minutes ago, AlfiePJ said:

The outlet holes in the cam spray are tiny, and reiterates why we should be regularly changing our oil for the correct type!

The Ford Pinto engine suffered cam problems as a result of pinhole oil spray getting blocked. I read it was thought to be water globules from condensation blocking the pinholes and made sure my thermostat was always working well when I had one.

[AlfiePJ]

Just more updates for interest for others...

It's hard to find sound technical info on failure modes of electronic throttle bodies. There's a lot of guesswork where the cause isn't obvious.

I dismantled the throttle my Toyota/Denso units and noted the following.

• Once butterfly cleaned, shaft and butterfly movements are fine without wear/play etc. And in fiddling with throttle stops, I've been on a wild goose chase.
• There is very little visible wear of any gear teeth, as other manufacturers seem to suffer with.
• But there is quite a lot of backlash between the drive motor pinion and any subsequent movement of the butterfly shaft. This seems to be as a result of wear on the bore of the idler reduction gear. I'll try and attach a video.
• My feeling is that with this being a Euro 5 emission engine and the balance of fresh air/exhaust (EGR) being so critical, that this backlash is causing my driveability issues. (BTW, it's had and EGR fitted recently).

Upshot is that I decided to replace the throttle body with a brand new one. I ordered one from AutoDoc, a reputable Italian brand called MEAT+DORIA, 270quid. Most photos appeared to show their product to be a rebadged Denso unit, but alas these later ones aren't. I stripped to examine the inners, and it's inferior in every way. The motor is poor, the positional feedback electronics are inferior and the plastic housing is flimsy. It's a copy of the Denso with all the expensive (i.e., good) engineering stripped out. Only sign of the manufacturer is HK. See photos. My hunch is that it's a Chinese design. It might be satisfactorily for developing markets, but I'm certainly not happy and it's going back .

Denso don't list a unit, so Toyota only, dealer price was ~1300quid, or I've opted for Yam6 for the same thing for under 600. I'll update more once fitted...

 

 

[flash22]

i would go with a good used item over a new one

A quick look the oem number should be 22030-47010

there are companies that do rebuild them in the uk

[mike36]

Hiya 

 

Can any one help where is OCV on 1NRFE and how to clean it  

[flash22]

1nrfe 1.33 is dual vvti both are located in the cam cover on the left clearly pictured above (2 silver valves on the left) - 1 bolt and 1 connector, wiggle and pull

click to enlarge