Parasitic battery drainage or just lack of use? Aygo 2010

[Roy124]

And the other makes. 

My neighbour has a Kia hybrid.  His boot light had been on overnight and flattened his 12v Battery.  The good news is he pressed the reset switch (that Toyota do not have) and the car sprang to life. 

The bad news is all his personalised settings were reset, that is a good reason not to disconnect the Battery.  That said, when the Battery was exchanged on my Corolla there was no problem with the settings. 

[martswain]

1 minute ago, Roy124 said:

And the other makes. 

My neighbour has a Kia hybrid.  His boot light had been on overnight and flattened his 12v battery.  The good news is he pressed the reset switch (that Toyota do not have) and the car sprang to life. 

The bad news is all his personalised settings were reset, that is a good reason not to disconnect the battery.  That said, when the battery was exchanged on my Corolla there was no problem with the settings. 

Hybrids are a completely different ball game, the 12V Battery only powers the electronics, it does not crank the engine.

Please keep on topic folks, the OP's vehicle is a 2010 Aygo.

[Roy124]

Laura, regarding your communal car park, is it undercover or open air?  If it is open air then a solar panel connected to the OBD port would work and give you peace of mind. 

[Roy124]

For others, I found this:

The photovoltaic panels used in solar car Battery chargers are small and can only give an output of 1500 mA. Since solar car chargers obtain energy from the sun, they need light to function. Although they are capable to work in low light or cloudy weather, they are likely to give a lower output i.e 500 mA

This suggests you might get some charge from subdued daylight or electric light in a car park.  Anyone experienced this? 

[Laura_]

47 minutes ago, Roy124 said:

Laura, regarding your communal car park, is it undercover or open air?  If it is open air then a solar panel connected to the OBD port would work and give you peace of mind. 

Thanks Roy, it's open air so this could actually be a really good workaround.

[Puglet]

Hi Laura, shame about access to a plug socket. Just to mention our similar vintage/engined Peugeot 107 keeps charge for well over a month and ours does mostly short journeys as well and also is not used every day, so yours running out in a week or so is not right so good you getting it checked out by Toyota as they should know specific issues to look/check for.  To be fair with short journeys and cold weather this time of year I do put ours on charge every 6 to 8 weeks just in case, but ours is still able to start car even after this length of time. 

 

[haelewyn]

https://www.amazon.com/Sunway-Solar-Maintainer-Motorcycle-Snowmobile/dp/B06WP95W51/ref=mp_s_a_1_4_sspa?keywords=solar+trickle+charger+for+car+battery&qid=1674129848&sr=8-4-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExUTU1MklDOFE5Qjc2JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDA3MTk0MUU3SDRNRUMyQllaTyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjA1Njc3Mk42OTJKQU9KTjY2UCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9tdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

You have them as a Battery,no connectionto mains... maybe this type is useful.

 

 

[Laura_]

15 minutes ago, Puglet said:

Hi Laura, shame about access to a plug socket. Just to mention our similar vintage/engined Peugeot 107 keeps charge for well over a month and ours does mostly short journeys as well and also is not used every day, so yours running out in a week or so is not right so good you getting it checked out by Toyota as they should know specific issues to look/check for.  To be fair with short journeys and cold weather this time of year I do put ours on charge every 6 to 8 weeks just in case, but ours is still able to start car even after this length of time. 

 

Thanks again Steve, that's good to know that your 107 does keep a charge with a similar amount of usage.

2 minutes ago, haelewyn said:

https://www.amazon.com/Sunway-Solar-Maintainer-Motorcycle-Snowmobile/dp/B06WP95W51/ref=mp_s_a_1_4_sspa?keywords=solar+trickle+charger+for+car+battery&qid=1674129848&sr=8-4-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExUTU1MklDOFE5Qjc2JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDA3MTk0MUU3SDRNRUMyQllaTyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjA1Njc3Mk42OTJKQU9KTjY2UCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9tdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

You have them as a battery,no connectionto mains... maybe this type is useful.

 

 

Definitely, thanks for the link Ivan will look into getting one.

[haelewyn]

IMHO make sure the device has a built in 12 V Battery that can be charged at home.
If only on solar power : i think the benefit will be extremely small and not worth to buy.

The one link I copied could be a not so great example... just to get you in that direction , I guess...

[Laura_]

This AA branded version looks like it might do the job ok https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B084M5ZL5L/?coliid=I1KJPFWPRSXNWD&colid=3QVQW9L4P03SN&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

[Roy124]

Laura, there are others and I am sure someone will give recommendations. 

I don't have one but advice is to unplug from the  OBD socket before starting your car. As an occasional user that should not be inconvenient. 

[haelewyn]

They don't connect to OBD, Roy.
Just to the Battery (normal or extended) or to the cigarette lighter.

Still a good idea to unplug it from the cigarette lighter ... 
To the Battery : some systems are made to stay connected.  So it depends.

I can't advice towards a good one either. I didn't use one / no need to use one here.

[Vandals01]

It could be a number of things.  First of all, Lead-acid Battery does not like being at less than 50% charge capacity.  When the Battery is below 50% charge, it will increase a chemical reaction called sulfation, thereby preventing it from charging back up again.  To reverse the sulfation process, you'll need a put it on a Battery charger and charge it overnight.  So simply an hour or 2 driving will not be sufficient. And it is for this reason, a proper battery Charger (ones that runs from AC main) is not a bad purchase. 

Then to make sure the battery is at is best performance, it is always a good idea to check out the alternator.  Typically, the voltage output should be anything between 13.9 to 14.7 volts.  Then as you crack up the power (Turn headlights on, set blower to Max Power, turn on rear defogger ), the voltage should remain above 13.7v.  Some people might hook up the alternator to an Oscilloscope to make sure it is putting out DC and not AC (it will put out AC when the diodes inside the Alternator goes bad).

Now, the proper battery type for Toyota Aygo MK1 is UK reference 002L.  However, many including myself have upgraded the battery to UK reference 063.  As the extra width will allow for greater capacity while also being cheaper.

Parasitic-Draw is definitely a possibilities.  Sadly speaking, Parasitic-Draw test not a test that will be carried out by RAC or AA.  As their job is to rescue vehicles, not troubleshooting to the root cause.   You'll need to take it to a garage and possibly pay £80+ to diagnose the problem.  Although I must say, it is not rocket science.  Someone who studies GCSE physics and have a £10 multi-meter can do it:

First hook the meter in series to the battery to find out how much current it draws when everything shuts off.  With everything turns off, it should be less than 100mA (ideally 30mA or less). Greater than this number, it means something is drawing power while it shouldn't.  Next will be check for voltage across each fuse OR simply unplug the fuse one by one until the current draw is back to ideal level.  Know which fuse will know which component is draining the battery hence you'll know which item to replace. (I'm sure there are plenty of YouTube Video take you step by step.)

[fossyant]

Worth getting the alternator checked. A diode failed on our alternator, turning it into a 'motor' when the car was switched off. Battery would go flat in 24 hours. I could hear a faint hum from the engine, and upon poking about, the alternator was warm. New alternator fixed it.

[Roy124]

On 1/20/2023 at 9:17 AM, haelewyn said:

They don't connect to OBD, Roy.
Just to the battery (normal or extended) or to the cigarette lighter.

Still a good idea to unplug it from the cigarette lighter ... 
To the battery : some systems are made to stay connected.  So it depends.

I can't advice towards a good one either. I didn't use one / no need to use one here.

Some do.  Generic advice, if you use the OBD socket .....

[Laura_]

Hi all, thought I'd share an update.

My Aygo went to Toyota last week for a Battery test and the Battery came back as 'failed, needs to be replaced'.  So luckily Halfords have swapped it for me and we'll see whether I have any further trouble with it 🤞. Toyota couldn't answer whether there's any parasitic draw so I might still get a multimeter to test this theory.

They did do a safety check and found all kinds of other advisory horrors, like a high and slipping clutch, drop links cracking, brake discs corroded so I'll look forward to those causing me problems at some point(!)

Thanks again for all of your advice!

[haelewyn]

Clutch 'high' is a laugh. They are all as high as you can make them.. Slipping : you should see that yourself when you are in a higher gear and you use the throttle. Do the revs go up high then without power output ?
Brake discs corroded : you can see that for a part through the covers of the wheel.
Try braking a few times firmly and see how much rust is gone 🙂

If you don't drive the car often, you won't use the brakes often.
As long as the brakes do their job and you get through MOT , the car is ok I guess.
If you didn't mind the cracking sounds yourself until today, they are still rather ok.

Same remark : if it gets an MOT and it does the job : no worries I would say, in your case of a car doing very small distances.

[Laura_]

7 minutes ago, haelewyn said:

Clutch 'high' is a laugh. They are all as high as you can make them.. Slipping : you should see that yourself when you are in a higher gear and you use the throttle. Do the revs go up high then without power output ?
Brake discs corroded : you can see that for a part through the covers of the wheel.
Try braking a few times firmly and see how much rust is gone 🙂

If you don't drive the car often, you won't use the brakes often.
As long as the brakes do their job and you get through MOT , the car is ok I guess.
If you didn't mind the cracking sounds yourself until today, they are still rather ok, i guess.

Thanks Ivan, I'll keep an eye on those things, particularly the slipping. Yeah, I'm hoping a lot of those things will make it through to the MOT in August and that they were just trying to create more business for themselves!

[Vandals01]

On 1/31/2023 at 6:13 PM, Laura_ said:

They did do a safety check and found all kinds of other advisory horrors, like a high and slipping clutch, drop links cracking, brake discs corroded so I'll look forward to those causing me problems at some point(!)

Thanks again for all of your advice!

Not much of a horror I would say:

1. The clutch are adjustable.  If it was really high, just turn the adjustment nut a few turn.  The only point you should worry is when adjustment is MAXED out.  Then you'll have no other option but to replace it.

2. Drop link can be bought on eBay for £12 for a pair. or £18 each from GSFCarParts.  Changing it will not need more than 2 hour of labour.  (I'm planning to change mine when the weather improves).

3.  Brake disc corroded - a few good stop will make the disc shiny again.  If it comes to the point it needs to be replaced, disc £40 - 61 for a pair, pads 2 pair for £18 to 27.  If you take it to a garage, walk away if they ask for more than £300.  In fact, you may find £200 if you were lucky. (Sorry, just realised you are in London, then scale that up to £450 instead of 300)

[Laura_]

On 2/1/2023 at 11:10 PM, Vandals01 said:

Not much of a horror I would say:

1. The clutch are adjustable.  If it was really high, just turn the adjustment nut a few turn.  The only point you should worry is when adjustment is MAXED out.  Then you'll have no other option but to replace it.

2. Drop link can be bought on eBay for £12 for a pair. or £18 each from GSFCarParts.  Changing it will not need more than 2 hour of labour.  (I'm planning to change mine when the weather improves).

3.  Brake disc corroded - a few good stop will make the disc shiny again.  If it comes to the point it needs to be replaced, disc £40 - 61 for a pair, pads 2 pair for £18 to 27.  If you take it to a garage, walk away if they ask for more than £300.  In fact, you may find £200 if you were lucky. (Sorry, just realised you are in London, then scale that up to £450 instead of 300)

Thanks for the really clear guide Vince, that's so useful.

[Gerg]

As well as all the above advice, if you do decide at some point to get work undertaken on the car by a main dealership, then the Citroen and Peugeot dealers, from very occasional owner's reports on here, are often significantly cheaper.

I seem to remember a few years back that the price for disk pad and rotor work was around 2/3rds the price of the Toyota quote.  Perhaps it still is.

[Laura_]

On 2/7/2023 at 10:39 AM, Gerg said:

As well as all the above advice, if you do decide at some point to get work undertaken on the car by a main dealership, then the Citroen and Peugeot dealers, from very occasional owner's reports on here, are often significantly cheaper.

I seem to remember a few years back that the price for disk pad and rotor work was around 2/3rds the price of the Toyota quote.  Perhaps it still is.

Ooh that's really handy to know, thanks Gerg! Think I have a Citroen nearish. I'll probably look for a regular garage too.

[fossyant]

Discs and pads off eBay were just £38 last year when I did ours.

[Laura_]

Hi everyone, quick update:

The new Battery died on me again this week (having been replaced end of Jan) after I left the car unused Thursday to the following Saturday, so 8 days. I'd used it fairly regularly just before then and it had been on an 400mile trip just 2 weeks before.

So I think I'm back to needing to investigate parasitic draw.

[fossyant]

When the car has been off a while, check if the alternator is warm, or you can hear a slight buzz coming from it.