New Clutch

[TaylorM]

I have at 2010 IQ. Yesterday, without warning, the clutch went. I started it up to defrost but when I got in to drive the clutch was no existent, completely loose. My question is, how difficult is it to replace the clutch? My partner is very mechanical but he seems to think there’s something unusual about it? I know it can get very expensive getting it done at a garage. Any advice would be gratefully received. 

[Stivino]

Please define "completely loose.

[dash]

I believe this clutch is hydraulically operated. Check master cylinder and see if any brake fluid in there (it supplies the brake system as well). Are your brakes operating when pressing the brake pedal or has that got a 'loose' feeling too?

 

[Matt_SRD4D]

Just replaced the Clutch on my fathers IQ - Takes a day or two, make sure you get a transmission hoist from eBay!

Looking at £200 for a clutch (Make sure you replace the bearing)

£40 for gearbox oil.

And bleeding the system is easy with two people.

Follow this video and you cant go wrong!

 

[Comfy]

Hi there - ive actually just done this job last week so ive got quite a bit of insight into it...me and my son did the whole job in 12 hours....we would have done it in about 9 but we had stuck bolts, rusted rounded off bolts to deal with. Its good to have a decend impact driver a good trolley jack and axle stands as well. I also used a 3ft long breaker bar as the main engine mount bolt at the back of the engine - 3 different impact drivers werent strong enough to shift it.! - the other thing that took us a while was to relocate the bell housing back on the side of the engine (3 attempts) but we got there in the end....

The main question is....is the bite point of the clutch at the bottom or the top?? the reason that i ask is that while i was thinking my original problem was the concentric slave the problem was in fact the clutch master cylinder...so i didnt need to change my clutch after all, but, now its done (43k) its something i dont have to worry about for the foresable future.!

I got a clutch kit (clutch and concentric slave) for 150.00 - i got a Rymec one which is apparently the OEM that Toyota use. The one thing that i couldnt work out was (in that above video) was that there want any need to drop the engine oil (from what i can see) as the clutch is dry and your taking the clutch housing off of the side, and, at 1hr 08mins he squeezes what it think is transmission oil in the side but no transmission oil came out while i was doing ours... although im more than happy to be corrected though.

Please feel free to ask as many questions as you need to....its a daunting job but, quite simple if you follow the video...just keep pausing the vid to locate (the next thing) and youll be fine....

If im very honest i think he had quite an easy time of it....my car had a lot of stiff bolts that were really hard to undo - my impact wrench earned its money that day!

 

[Matt_SRD4D]

The clutches on Toyota’s in my experience (Done a few Yaris and an IQ now) don’t wear the entire clutch pad before they go, I’ve even had no sign of slippage before the clutch went on a yaris before.

It’s always best to replace both the bearing and clutch plate given the extent of the job.

in relation to the “wet” clutch, it’s hydraulic and uses the same master as the brake system, when bled you should get an inch of play at the bottom and I think it’s half and inch as the top (it states something in the manual).

in relation to the transmission oil… you most definitely should have needed to drain the fluid from the gearbox first, once you remove the drive shafts the seals would no longer be holding it back and it would have poured out the mounts ?

He doesn’t drop engine oil, it’s transmission fluid.. has a similar sump plug.

Did you stop yours and have you put any back?

Manual transmission 2.4L

CVT - 6.2L

[Comfy]

Brilliant - thats answered the engine oil question then....didnt think about that....ive never worked on this car before ever despite owning it 12 years or so now....im a biker and used to working on motorbike engines but when the local garage wanted 1k for the clutch job i thought id try it myself so many thanks for that explanation...!

Could you elaboarate on "It’s always best to replace both the bearing and clutch plate given the extent of the job."? ive replaced the clutch and the concentric slave...not sure what or where the bearing was! (that being said its all back together now!)

right...so hang on....i may have cocked up here.....so i might need to drain the oil again...on both counts.....!! if you could advise..! - ive test driven it about half a mile so not far... so this is my lack of knowledge on the engine...!

When i initially watched the video and watch him take out the sump bolt i assumed that was engine oil (so its not!) id say about 2.5 liters came out...at the time it was high on axle stands so i assumed as the engine was in the air that was why i didnt get the full amount out....(so thats wrong then??)

So ive essentially topped up the engine with more oil than i needed to and, i need to add the tranmission oil back in...!

And just to add where is the actual engine oil sump bolt then?

 

 

[flash22]

3 part clutch kit is the concentric slave cylinder (incorporates the bearing) clutch and pressure plate

an old style clutch uses a forked arm with a throw out bearing, some have a cable clutch, others an external slave, most cars in the last 15 years use a concentric slave - less moving parts increased reliability

check your engine oil with the dipstick too much oil is as bad as not enough - the sump plug is on the engine oil pan on the driver's side, the gearbox has 2 plugs 1 to drain (10mm hex iirc) it - the other to fill it (24mm)

random youtube vid

 

[flash22]

[Comfy]

Thanks very much....yeah i did watch a vid and found the oil drain for the engine is on the back of the sump...went up to Toyota just now to get the transmission oil. Many thanks for your help...one thing i was looking for (seeing your diagram) is an online pdf of the workshop manual....any advice on where to get one as my next job are the rear shocks....one is leaking so im going to replace both...

Thanks again - for all of your help today. Its a learning process...im going to be doing more work on the car myself due to the age and rising garage costs.

Oh - and yes i did get the 3 part clutch.! Very glad to see this is a nice live forum!

[flash22]

I will send you a PM

rear shocks are easy, stick it on axle stands release the top nut (2 nuts locked against one another) accessed through the bulb cover, unbolt the lower bolt, the springs are not under tension/compression

oem are KYB and are a common part, the fronts are a mare to get hold of

 

 

 

[Comfy]

Brilliant thats good to know...do the rear lights come out easily? and if the fronts are hard to get hold of are there any aftermarket parts which can be acquired..?

[flash22]

Access is from the trim covers inside the boot

OEM are getting tough to source there are 2-3 aftermarket suppliers - the fronts are unique to the IQ

[Comfy]

Anything come of the op's clutch issue in the end...?