Toyota Aygo 2011 - cranking but won't start, issue comes and goes

[reallyfedupofthiscar]

Hi everyone, 

Toyota Aygo 2011 1.0 sometimes starts, sometimes it doesn't - when the "check engine" light comes on, when I turn the key and all the lights come on, I know it will start, if there is no light, it won't start.

 

Today the car works without any complaints, tomorrow it will be the same issue, I will wait a few minutes, sometimes an hour or two and it will start without problems. I will also mention that the car makes a noise and tries to start but does not start. It drives beautifully, without complaints, but sometimes doesn't want start  at all.

 

New Battery, new alternator, all filters changed, spark plugs changed, computer shows no faults with Immobiliser.

 

Sometimes when I restart the Battery it will also start but I remind you that there is a brand new Battery fitted. 

 

Please help, I've been dealing with this issue for months. Spent hundreds of £ on getting the issue diagnosed and no one can seem to fix the problem

[DerekHa]

Hi Vanessa,

That sounds a very intermittent starting problem you have there.

Would be helpful if you can explain the noise(s) you hear when this happens or anything else you've become aware of?

Without having the car to listen to when this happens, my inclination would be to suspect the starter motor/solenoid.

Sounds a bit like that the starter could have a bad electrical connection internally in a relatively small area hence it will start the car on most occassions but when in the wrong place it decides not to play nicely. Could also be that the starter has jammed on the flywheel starter ring. In either case you will just here a clicking/ticking noise from the starter. Another candidate that could similar issues would be a bad starter motor relay but think that would likely cause the engine to not start.

You may need to replace the starter motor or have it overhauled/reconditioned, another expense I know.

[flash22]

Given the symptoms, it sounds like and electrical issue

Solenoid failing on the starter is the first place to look

do you have a lot of other keys with your car keys ?

[reallyfedupofthiscar]

51 minutes ago, DerekHa said:

Hi Vanessa,

That sounds a very intermittent starting problem you have there.

Would be helpful if you can explain the noise(s) you hear when this happens or anything else you've become aware of?

Without having the car to listen to when this happens, my inclination would be to suspect the starter motor/solenoid.

Sounds a bit like that the starter could have a bad electrical connection internally in a relatively small area hence it will start the car on most occassions but when in the wrong place it decides not to play nicely. Could also be that the starter has jammed on the flywheel starter ring. In either case you will just here a clicking/ticking noise from the starter. Another candidate that could similar issues would be a bad starter motor relay but think that would likely cause the engine to not start.

You may need to replace the starter motor or have it overhauled/reconditioned, another expense I know.

Thank you for your help, I don't have a clue about cars but I will pass on your advice to my dad 🙂 I've attached some videos 

 

 

 

[reallyfedupofthiscar]

10 minutes ago, flash22 said:

Given the symptoms, it sounds like and electrical issue

Solenoid failing on the starter is the first place to look

do you have a lot of other keys with your car keys ?

Thank you for your reply. It means a lot.

i will pass this onto my Dad when he comes back from work. 
 

yes, I actually have loads of keys on my keys, could this be an issue? 

[flash22]

Next time it does it, wiggle/jiggle the key up and down as you turn - if that works, you have a worn ignition switch sadly it's part of the ignition barrel

pics for reference

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314200977078

[DerekHa]

Hi again Vanessa.

Sorry but I missed the all important CRANKING and wont start!

Forget all that I waffled about as that definately isn't your problem having watched your video and realised my mistake!!

Flash is the man around here! So he may be on the right lines.

If the key/ignition barrel isn't the problem, may be a vacuum lock in the fuel tank?

       XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

Have just watched your video again. Normally I'm sure the EML (engine) light should come on when you turn the ignition on! It then goes out once the engine is running if everything is is as it should be. That engine light is the cars computer showing you that it has checked everything and the car should start! If it's not on when you turn the ignition on thats not right!

[reallyfedupofthiscar]

17 minutes ago, flash22 said:

Next time it does it, wiggle/jiggle the key up and down as you turn - if that works, you have a worn ignition switch sadly it's part of the ignition barrel

pics for reference

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314200977078

Ooo, that seems likely because I removed all the additional keys when I took it to the garage and they could not figure out what was wrong with it and gave it back after fitting a new alternator. Shortly after I got the car back, I put the keys back on and the issue returned. I'm no expert on cars but I think you have cracked it. I will keep the forum updated, thank you for all of your effort! Take care 🙂 

[reallyfedupofthiscar]

14 minutes ago, DerekHa said:

Hi again Vanessa.

Sorry but I missed the all important CRANKING and wont start!

Forget all that I waffled about as that definately isn't your problem having watched your video and realised my mistake!!

Flash is the man around here! So he may be on the right lines.

If the key/ignition barrel isn't the problem, may be a vacuum lock in the fuel tank?

Sounds very promising, hopefully you guys are right but I do have a slight feeling this might be the reason. I can't believe it's gone on for so long and it could be as simple as this... thank you so much. Will keep the forum updated. Take care 🙂 

[DerekHa]

I think Flash is right, you likely have a problem with the ignition barrel Vanessa.

[reallyfedupofthiscar]

On 1/23/2023 at 5:06 PM, DerekHa said:

I think Flash is right, you likely have a problem with the ignition barrel Vanessa.

It was working fine for the past 2 days after I removed the keys, no issues with starting and then today I tried to start it to go to work and it wouldn't start, I jiggled the key about a bit and it started but then immediately died. Like I say engine is cranking but no start.

Do you think I should just change the ignition barrel that you sent me the link to? 
 

Appreciate the help thank you :)

[reallyfedupofthiscar]

On 1/23/2023 at 4:41 PM, DerekHa said:

Hi again Vanessa.

Sorry but I missed the all important CRANKING and wont start!

Forget all that I waffled about as that definately isn't your problem having watched your video and realised my mistake!!

Flash is the man around here! So he may be on the right lines.

If the key/ignition barrel isn't the problem, may be a vacuum lock in the fuel tank?

       XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

Have just watched your video again. Normally I'm sure the EML (engine) light should come on when you turn the ignition on! It then goes out once the engine is running if everything is is as it should be. That engine light is the cars computer showing you that it has checked everything and the car should start! If it's not on when you turn the ignition on thats not right!

It was working fine for the past 2 days after I removed the keys, no issues with starting and then today I tried to start it to go to work and it wouldn't start, I jiggled the key about a bit and it started but then immediately died. Like I say engine is cranking but no start.

Do you think I should just change the ignition thingy that you sent me the link to? 
 

Appreciate the help thank you 🙂

[flash22]

The link was an example only

i will find the correct part number - 69057-0H012

I also see you carry 2 keys, these need to be separated as they may cause an immobilizer issue

[reallyfedupofthiscar]

38 minutes ago, flash22 said:

The link was an example only

i will find the correct part number - 69057-0H012

I also see you carry 2 keys, these need to be separated as they may cause an immobilizer issue

Aha, ok so just get that replaced? 
 

I have seperated the keys, just using the main car key - no key rings on it as well.

Thanks again 

[flash22]

Yes, the hardest bit of the job is getting the tamperproof bolts out, be aware of the immobilizer chip in the key when you change the blade over

A decent locksmith can re pin the barrel to suit your existing key if required