Gear puller thread size for removing Auris steering wheel

[Microgroove100]

Toyota must have employed a sumo wrestler to fit the steering wheel as it won't budge with normal persuasion.

Looking at the bolt threads to attach a gear puller, I am not sure if a standard size and thread is used. Various comments scattered around the internet suggest 8mm/1.25mm pitch or a 5/16"-18 might be used. Fitting a soft plastic rod screwed into the thread to obtain an impression shows pitch at just over 1.1mm so could be a standard M8 thread but the inside diameter of the thread is 6.8mm (ish).

Does anyone know the correct Toyota bolt size?

Thanks
Rich

[forkingabout]

I've never needed a puller to remove any vehicle steering wheel, it will just be extremely tight on the splines as likely never been removed since it was originally fitted.

Refit the bolt loosely 2 or 3 turns & then try rocking / pulling the wheel firmly towards you.

Make sure the road wheels are pointing straight ahead before removing the steering wheel.

[Guest]

30 minutes ago, forkingabout said:

Refit the bolt loosely 2 or 3 turns & then try rocking / pulling the wheel firmly towards you.

Wise advice because many a nose has been broken or face rearranged if/when it releases suddenly and travels quite rapidly backwards!

[flash22]

As above, mark the position of the wheel and the shaft, put the nut on a few turns so you don't smash your self in the face, wiggle, wiggle, pull

Use a standard 2 legged puller, if you must

It's Japanese, It's metric

the yaris wheel is similar design, note the holes either side of the nut iirc these are threaded

Edit. Checked the yaris and auris wheels i have hanging up in the workshop - grabbed a M8 bolt, fits no issue - double-checked with a thread gauge and verniers

Standard M8 x 1.25

Edit 2. https://www.accu.co.uk/p/117-iso-metric-thread-dimensions

[forkingabout]

31 minutes ago, olonas said:

Wise advice because many a nose has been broken or face rearranged if/when it releases suddenly and travels quite rapidly backwards!

Also prevents all the wiring from the clock spring being ripped out when the steering wheel departs from the spines.

[Microgroove100]

Thanks to everyone for their advice, much appreciated. 👍

Tomorrow I will take another look to see if the steering wheel can be wiggled loose without a puller. Certainly would be better this way as otherwise would have to order a set with inevitable delay. All this in aid to remove, clean, service and re tension contacts in the direction indicator switch!

Rich 

[flash22]

tbh swap the stalk you will only be doing the job again a few months down the road, avoid the cheap Chinese stalks - if budget is an issue get a used item

[furtula]

I've changed the wheel on my Yaris (2005) few months ago. It was a bit tight, but i got it out just using my hands.

Don't forget to leave the nut on, on the last few threads, unless you want a !Removed! nose.

[tavy]

  Few years ago I took my steering wheel out when I wrapped it in leather.

  First disconnected the Battery minus terminal, removed the airbag (it's a bit tricky to disconect airbag connector), loosen the screw, but not completely and finnaly pulled and rock the wheel at the same time; got it out pretty easy.

  Spraying there some WD40 will help.

 The center position is marked if I remember exactly.

[Microgroove100]

Success!😀

This morning I only spent just under three minutes wiggling, pulling and gently tapping the steering wheel for it to detach. Thanks once again to everyone for advice on the procedure.

Removed stalk and looked inside indicator switch assembly and, to be honest, I was less than impressed with the Heath Robinson  construction for an essential item.

@flash22 Although I have managed to get the switch to work properly by cleaning away the green corrosion as a temporary fix I will be looking to replace the stalk at a later date.

Attached picture illustrates the degree of corrosion on third track which proved to be extremely stubborn. Resorted to using an old fiberglass cleaning pen and a drop of Philips contact cleaner until the track looked similar to the upper two. Rich

[tavy]

  Well done ! I think the main problem is grease that is old and dry, that's way corrosion appeared.

  After a proper cleaning, there's no need to change the stalk.

[furtula]

Hope you reapplied the grease, it's there to prevent patina.

 

[Microgroove100]

Yes contact grease was applied to prevent fretting of the surface and to keep the contact resistance low. Measuring this resistance after the stalk was reassembled confirmed repair had worked. Waggling the lever around in either detent position did not change the measurement. Also noted the indicator activated 'tick' is noticeably louder now.

Rich

[forkingabout]

17 hours ago, Microgroove100 said:

Resorted to using an old fiberglass cleaning pen 

I have one in my tool box, purchased a few years ago after seeing James May demonstrate its usefulness on one of his tv programs. 

[RosieandJim]

I'm replacing a faulty indicator stalk on my 2011 Auris TR 1.33 and having problems removing the steering wheel. I've tried wiggling, lots of pulling, WD40, etc. but I can't get it to budge.

Can anyone recommended a particular make of puller that will work best with my wheel? I'm assuming that the type consisting of a rectangular bar with cut-outs either side of the central column spline locating bolt is preferable to the 'star' shaped variety having four cut-outs given that my wheel appears to have two side bolt holes spaced 60mm apart and the horn module is at the top above the central column spline (I guess I can remove the horn module if need be).

eBay has lots of listings for a set in a blue box for around £18 (search for '14 Automotive Steering Wheel Lock Plate Puller Compressor Remover Installer Tool') but I've read some comments that the components aren't particularly good quality.

Thanks!

[tavy]

On 2/15/2023 at 7:16 PM, tavy said:

  Few years ago I took my steering wheel out when I wrapped it in leather.

  First disconnected the battery minus terminal, removed the airbag (it's a bit tricky to disconect airbag connector), loosen the screw, but not completely and finnaly pulled and rock the wheel at the same time; got it out pretty easy.

  Spraying there some WD40 will help.

 The center position is marked if I remember exactly.

 If this doesn't work, try to push the steering wheel with your knees from beneath, put a mandrel in center of the screw and hit it with a hammer.

Steering wheel should pop up easily.