Auris Oil and Emissions issue

[mikebmanc]

Hi folks,

I know there have been a few threads showing similar problems but I thought I would ask here for some urgent advice.

Our 2013 (1.33 petrol) Auris which has 117,00 miles on it has just failed the MOT on emissions, (all tests - well over on the hydrocarbons)

We have had problems with excessive oil consumption for some time requiring at l.5 ltr every 300 miles.

Regular O2 sensor warnings.

Last summer we had a big problem whilst on holiday, O2 sensors and Cat were changed (about £1000), faults cleared.

Fault light is back on, there is apparently another fault in there - I can't remember what. We were hoping to reset the faults and get it through the MOT but the emissions failure has obviously put pay to that.

Local garage has said probably needs a new engine or full strip down which they can't do and has advised cutting our losses.

RRG Toyota Altrincham (where we bought it) said they are not equipped to deal with it and hung us out to dry.

The MOT expires end of this month so have a small amount of time where we can drive to check out other cars.

It seems crazy to get rid as it runs perfectly smoothly - very frustrating. Our previous Toyota (a Yaris) failed when engine fumes were leaking into the cab and it was going to cost multiple k's to repair leaving me some concerns about sticking with Toyota going forward.

Would the consensus here be to cut our losses or does anybody know of a garage in the greater Manchester / Cheshire are that might be able to do something?

Perhaps at this mileage it's not worth it.

Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

[TonyHSD]

Hi,
it is indeed a now known issue with these particular engines. I don’t know any garage or mechanic to recommend to do an engine repair. I can give you a suggestion what you can do yourself and try to fix the car to pass an mot and keep it for another year. 
First you need to run a diagnostic and get the exact fault codes. If they confirm  the problem it’s related to the oil consumption and emissions thing you can buy wynns catalytic converters and lambda sensor cleaner https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393432200811?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=MQfZam35TmK&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 , add it to the tank half full of petrol , petrol should be no more than 20-30ltr and take the car for a 1hr motorway drive, preferably at night when it’s quiet. Drive 60-70mph whatever is comfortable and safe for you, do a few brisk accelerations 30 to 60 mph just to clean and exhaust system. Do this a week before the the test and finish the fuel in the tank then buy wynns emissions reducer and follow the instructions on the label exactly.

Make sure this particular additive https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232628405586?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=bed5g0agS8m&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

it’s inside your fuel when you take the car to an mot test. Also the day before do a quick 30-40 min motorway drive again. 
If the car is due to service you can do an engine flush and change the oil and filter, so when the car has a new oil in, exhaust system cleaned and special fuel additives inside the tank the chances to pass mot doubles, it won’t be guaranteed but really it doubles. 
Good luck 

[Eddiefh]

There’s a Lexus/Toyota specialist in Sheffield that has a lot of good reviews , many people travel from fare and wide to go to him , obviously after the fuel treatments as that is going to be a lot cheaper 

[Catlover]

Hi Michael, when I saw you were inputting 1.5 litres every 300 miles I went Wow! That is excessive and isn’t really going to better on a long term basis. Try what Tony recommends for sure, but don’t suggest long term results, it may get you through the upcoming MOT but the problem is not going to go away longer term.

The real longer term solution is to recondition the engine or put one in from a scrapper, but that CAT could be a worry again if you just sort the engine.

When did you buy the car, and how many miles did it have on the clock then.?

[mikebmanc]

Thanks for all of the advice - it's most welcome.

The car was bought in May/June 2014 with about 15,000 miles on it.

The MOT fails were

Engine MIL inoperative or indicates a malfunction (8.2.1.2 (h))

Exhaust hydrocarbon content after 2nd fast idle exceeds manufacturer's specified limits (8.2.1.2 (a))

Exhaust carbon monoxide content after 2nd fast idle exceeds manufacturer's specified limits (8.2.1.2 (a))

Exhaust Lambda reading after 2nd fast idle outside specified limits (8.2.1.2 (c))

 

We've been used to carrying a can of oil in the boot and topping up sith every full tank of fuel for quite a while now. The various garages, local mechanic, ATS etc have all said that was the best thing as they felt nothing could really be done - they would usually just clear the warning light for the re-test. This time though it failed on the emissions so can't be done.

The mechanic did say that the emissions were so bad that cleaning solutions etc wouldn't work.

2nd Fast Idle Test

CO max limit 0.20% Reading 1.02%

HC max limit 220ppm, reading 413ppm

Lambda limit 0.97-1.03 reading 0.95

This doesn't mean much to me but CO 5 times the limit can't be good.

 

I forget exactly what the codes were as there were a few related to O2 sensors but also another related to maybe something like a "fuel flow sensor". I'll ring and try to find out.

I only really have a week left for the MOT. I'd probably get something for it part-ex (not much I know - but something). If I leave it a week I guess I legally wouldn't be able to drive it to a dealer for a part-ex. This is also my wife's main vehicle which she uses for work and is self employed - so have to work some sort of solution. 

[TonyHSD]

27 minutes ago, mikebmanc said:

Thanks for all of the advice - it's most welcome.

The car was bought in May/June 2014 with about 15,000 miles on it.

The MOT fails were

Engine MIL inoperative or indicates a malfunction (8.2.1.2 (h))

Exhaust hydrocarbon content after 2nd fast idle exceeds manufacturer's specified limits (8.2.1.2 (a))

Exhaust carbon monoxide content after 2nd fast idle exceeds manufacturer's specified limits (8.2.1.2 (a))

Exhaust Lambda reading after 2nd fast idle outside specified limits (8.2.1.2 (c))

 

We've been used to carrying a can of oil in the boot and topping up sith every full tank of fuel for quite a while now. The various garages, local mechanic, ATS etc have all said that was the best thing as they felt nothing could really be done - they would usually just clear the warning light for the re-test. This time though it failed on the emissions so can't be done.

The mechanic did say that the emissions were so bad that cleaning solutions etc wouldn't work.

2nd Fast Idle Test

CO max limit 0.20% Reading 1.02%

HC max limit 220ppm, reading 413ppm

Lambda limit 0.97-1.03 reading 0.95

This doesn't mean much to me but CO 5 times the limit can't be good.

 

I forget exactly what the codes were as there were a few related to O2 sensors but also another related to maybe something like a "fuel flow sensor". I'll ring and try to find out.

I only really have a week left for the MOT. I'd probably get something for it part-ex (not much I know - but something). If I leave it a week I guess I legally wouldn't be able to drive it to a dealer for a part-ex. This is also my wife's main vehicle which she uses for work and is self employed - so have to work some sort of solution. 

Yeah that’s a bit complicated situation, you can’t really do much except a try  wit those additives or one of them and hope to pass the test if not then part ex or we buy any car or similar eBay auction or Facebook sell it and buy another car instead of spending money on. Hybrids are the better one but again if used car it’s a bit of luck involved. 
 

[Mooly]

Interesting as I'm in a not to dissimilar situation. I'm getting through around 1L in around 600-800 miles. Mileage just passed 92k this morning after a 70 mile or so run.

My MOT is due in the next 5 weeks or so and so far emissions have been about as low as they could be......

What I would say to the op is don't be afraid to take the engine right up to the red line once its thoroughly warmed. I suspect my doing that regularly is actually helping. I'm also using 10W40 oil for the last few years. So much better with regards to smoothness and general 'subjective' feel of how the engine runs and sounds.  

Have you got the correct Toyota plugs fitted? as the heat range of these was changed a few years back I think in response to this issue although info is pretty much non available on that. I wouldn't recommend anything other than the Toyota specced part.

I did notice the hotter plugs improved an issue that surfaced when it was still quite new which I won't elaborate on here but that I think even then was related to the first signs of oil consumption. Long story short, reset the ECU by disconnecting the Battery and you might find it runs a whole lot better... using the new spec plugs and having to keep resetting the ECU became a thing of the past for me. It made a big difference.  

[Mooly]

I've just looked more accurately at my oil consumption. I've done pretty much exactly 9k in the last 12 months and have gone through around 11.6 L of 10W40 oil. That works out at 776 miles/L over the year.

Another ongoing check is using a micrometer to measure the level on the dipstick. Checked when cold and as the car is parked in the garage in the same spot the reading accurate. Remove dipstick and immediately place horizontal on the bench. 

From the bottom of the stick to min mark is 13 mm and from bottom to max mark is 44 mm. So min to max is 31 mm.

Mileage 92073 and level at 41 mm

Mileage 92124 and level at 38mm

Mileage 92150 and level at 36 mm

Mileage 92200 and level at 34 mm

Mileage 92280 and level at 31 mm

Mileage over test is 207 miles. Level dropped over test is 10 mm. If max to min is 1L (is it though?) then I should be able to do 3.1 times the test mileage which is 642 miles. So the results are fairly consistent.

The last two readings both included some fast motorway and as I have long suspected the consumption is 'worse' at lower 'around town' speeds.

It is perhaps reasonable to suppose the consumption is worse now than year ago.

MOT on Tuesday...... 

At 1000km/L mentioned in the user manual as being 'acceptable' (ha ha) it still meets the manufacturers specification.

[TonyHSD]

34 minutes ago, Mooly said:

I've just looked more accurately at my oil consumption. I've done pretty much exactly 9k in the last 12 months and have gone through around 11.6 L of 10W40 oil. That works out at 776 miles/L over the year.

Another ongoing check is using a micrometer to measure the level on the dipstick. Checked when cold and as the car is parked in the garage in the same spot the reading accurate. Remove dipstick and immediately place horizontal on the bench. 

From the bottom of the stick to min mark is 13 mm and from bottom to max mark is 44 mm. So min to max is 31 mm.

Mileage 92073 and level at 41 mm

Mileage 92124 and level at 38mm

Mileage 92150 and level at 36 mm

Mileage 92200 and level at 34 mm

Mileage 92280 and level at 31 mm

Mileage over test is 207 miles. Level dropped over test is 10 mm. If max to min is 1L (is it though?) then I should be able to do 3.1 times the test mileage which is 642 miles. So the results are fairly consistent.

The last two readings both included some fast motorway and as I have long suspected the consumption is 'worse' at lower 'around town' speeds.

It is perhaps reasonable to suppose the consumption is worse now than year ago.

MOT on Tuesday...... 

At 1000km/L mentioned in the user manual as being 'acceptable' (ha ha) it still meets the manufacturers specification.

Have you ever replaced the pcv valve on your engine? You know these even not blocked with the time and mileage may get weak and stay constantly open letting a large amount of oil getting into intake manifold and burning. At least its the case with 1.8 hybrids gen 3. When I first opened my throttle body to clean at around 80k miles there was around 150-200ml of oil seating at the bottom of the intake manifold under the throttle body., exactly the place where the hose from the pcv goes into the manifold, no question where the oil came from. I did replaced the pcv at 60k miles though as precaution but tbh when compared both old and new they’re were no visible or audible differences. I will be taking apart egr system again soon after 100k miles traveled since last egr service , got a new pcv and will inspect everything thoroughly.
What is interesting to me is that where Toyota engines burning oil they does not smoke like in older cars. Anyone any insight on that and why it is like that? 

 

[Mooly]

3 hours ago, TonyHSD said:

Have you ever replaced the pcv valve on your engine?

I haven't Tony, partly I think because the fault is documented by Toyota and it seems to be basically new rings and I think modified oil jets. 

 

3 hours ago, TonyHSD said:

What is interesting to me is that where Toyota engines burning oil they does not smoke like in older cars. Anyone any insight on that and why it is like that? 

In my case I see zero smoke in normal driving at any speed. No smoke under hard acceleration all the way to the rev limiter in 3rd (and 2nd).

No smoke by suddenly accelerating in 1st to the rev limiter. You sometimes just see a hint of grey but I think you would with any petrol car doing that.

Where it does smoke... drive at 30 mph in 4th and then drop to 3rd and descend a hill using the engine for braking. It doesn't need be a long decent, just two or three hundred meters (or less) and press the accelerator smartly at the bottom of the hill. Large blue smoke release. A lot.

Do the same on some proper hills (like half a mile or a mile of decent) and it is a total wipeout of the area with smoke when you do the same at the bottom of the hill. Think of the worst cars you used to see in the 70's and 80's where it stops the traffic behind from even being able to see. It looks as bad as that to me. It doesn't last long though if you quickly rev it and accelerate.

Go up hills with foot to the floor and no smoke at all.        

[Mooly]

Its difficult to describe how bad it looks. Just a picture from the web but I would say it is every inch this bad after a decent. In fact the more I look and I'd say its a lot worse than in this picture. 99% of the time though and you see nothing.

Remember when we used to put Red-X into the plug holes back in the day, spin the engine, refit the plugs and start it up. Remember the clouds and clouds of smoke as the Red-X burned off. It looks like that. Every bit as bad as that.   

 

 

 

 

[mikebmanc]

Ok - so quick update.

We tried to use the additives but unfortuantely it didn't work so we took the decision to replace the vehicle.

We Buy any Car offered £1600, FOW offered £2600 part ex so that's the route we took. A difficult decision but in the end my wife needed the security for her work. (She's a lower strings teacher so has to carry around either cello or double bass - so she couldn't use public transport or taxis etc for the time it would have taken to rectify.

We never had any issues with the car visibly smoking, just continuous failed O2 sensors etc.

 

 

[TonyHSD]

58 minutes ago, mikebmanc said:

Ok - so quick update.

We tried to use the additives but unfortuantely it didn't work so we took the decision to replace the vehicle.

We Buy any Car offered £1600, FOW offered £2600 part ex so that's the route we took. A difficult decision but in the end my wife needed the security for her work. (She's a lower strings teacher so has to carry around either cello or double bass - so she couldn't use public transport or taxis etc for the time it would have taken to rectify.

We never had any issues with the car visibly smoking, just continuous failed O2 sensors etc.

 

 

That’s good to hear at least you had sometimes for the car.
What have you bought in exchange for the Auris ? Have you stay with Toyota or moved away? Just interesting. 
Thanks 

[AisinW]

On 2/18/2023 at 5:47 AM, mikebmanc said:

Hi folks,

I know there have been a few threads showing similar problems but I thought I would ask here for some urgent advice.

Our 2013 (1.33 petrol) Auris which has 117,00 miles on it has just failed the MOT on emissions, (all tests - well over on the hydrocarbons)

We have had problems with excessive oil consumption for some time requiring at l.5 ltr every 300 miles.

Regular O2 sensor warnings.

Last summer we had a big problem whilst on holiday, O2 sensors and Cat were changed (about £1000), faults cleared.

Fault light is back on, there is apparently another fault in there - I can't remember what. We were hoping to reset the faults and get it through the MOT but the emissions failure has obviously put pay to that.

Local garage has said probably needs a new engine or full strip down which they can't do and has advised cutting our losses.

RRG Toyota Altrincham (where we bought it) said they are not equipped to deal with it and hung us out to dry.

The MOT expires end of this month so have a small amount of time where we can drive to check out other cars.

It seems crazy to get rid as it runs perfectly smoothly - very frustrating. Our previous Toyota (a Yaris) failed when engine fumes were leaking into the cab and it was going to cost multiple k's to repair leaving me some concerns about sticking with Toyota going forward.

Would the consensus here be to cut our losses or does anybody know of a garage in the greater Manchester / Cheshire are that might be able to do something?

Perhaps at this mileage it's not worth it.

Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

I suggest you sell the car instead of dumping too much money on it.  Sometimes we are just unlucky and get a LEMON.  Generally, all cars can have oil consumption issues but certain model are more prone than others.  If you stay with Toyota, you should go with hybrid.  Either any Auris post 2015 or  Yaris hybrid are not oil burner.  However, you should check how is your driving behaviour. If you do a lot of short trips/cold starts < 5 miles on each way, you should change the oil every 6 months/5k miles instead of 1y/10k miles. That's the only way to avoid high oil consumption issues. You can use any longlife oil 5W-30 if it is cheaper and easier to find in any oil shop but do it every 6 months instead of luxury 0W-20/1 year in dealership.  But if you DIY, 0W-20 is not that expensive. It is about $40 from reputable brands (Shell, Total, Mobil1, Ravenol, Castrol, etc.).