VVT oil control valve filter - 2 SZ FE

[PaulJC]

The engine management warning light on a Yaris 1.3 litre 2SZ FE engine is indicating a problem with the VVT.  Before replacing things, I thought that I would check and clean the VVT solenoid and the associated OCV filter.  Is there an OCV oil filter on the 2SZ FE engine? I can find the VVT solenoid and the filter is usually beneath it, but there is no sign of one.

[TonyHSD]

Hi, 

some engines has these filters removed from outside the engine but some are mounted inside and the only way to take them out and replace or clean is to remove the valve cover and eventually the camshaft. If this is the case with yours you may just run an engine flush and replace the oil and filter and see if anything changes. Usually these metal mesh doesn’t get clogged unless the oil changes been neglected and oil intervals extended by much. YouTube perhaps will have some helpful videos you can search and see from first hand. 
Good luck 

[flash22]

It's on the head its self, the OCV is in the timing cover

Check the resistance of the OCV

 

 

[PaulJC]

Many thanks for your replies. I will check the resistance of the OCV ... do you know what it should be?

[flash22]

OCV 6.9 - 7.9 ohms is the range iirc, it may vary with temperature - below 1 ohm is open circuit over 10k ohm is a dead short

[TonyHSD]

1 hour ago, flash22 said:

OCV 6.9 - 7.9 ohms is the range iirc, it may vary with temperature - below 1 ohm is open circuit over 10k ohm is a dead short

Is my one ok then, I did checked and cleaned last year, measured and showed these numbers 

then I run a test from the 12v Battery and was working ok. 👍

 

[flash22]

Yes that's fine on the Auris as it has slightly different specs on the 1.8 of course you get changes due to wear and temperature, tbh it's a budget meter and more than likely some resistance in the leads/probes

[TonyHSD]

52 minutes ago, flash22 said:

Yes that's fine on the Auris as it has slightly different specs on the 1.8 of course you get changes due to wear and temperature, tbh it's a budget meter and more than likely some resistance in the leads/probes

Yeah, cheapest possible from Aldi if I remember correctly long time ago. 
Will probably buy a better one if I do more work but i only use it so occasionally I will stick with it for now. Thank you for your answer. 👍

[Cyker]

Ha, I have the exact same meter but with a different logo in the bottom left corner  

[paul9]

It seems some of the OCV related faults can be caused by a weak/faulty timing chain tensioner, or a worn timing chain. Just thought that I would mention that.

Do you know the actual code stored? Mine is for the circuit perforformance. I have a cheap AliExpress replacement OCV which I will fit later today, weather permitting. If that shifts my code, then I will probably order a full price original when payday comes around. Otherwise it will be time to investigate the tensioner and get quotes for the timing and water-pump job. At 130k miles, it may need done. 💰💷

[flash22]

Chain tensioner as nothing to do with the OCV, unless you have a chain rattle (stretched chain) that will give a crank/cam correlation code

the chain is in fixed position, the OCV controls oil to the phaser and advances or retards the cam shaft

Ocv can go faulty without throwing a code, classic symptoms if you do a WOT snap the engine will tend to fall flat on its face or not idle

cheap Chinese ocv's are junk your lucky to get 6-12 month out of one

As above, check the resistance of the ocv first

Edit. If you have a P1656 check the pins on the OCV and terminals for corrosion and pin fitment female terminal can spread and not make a proper connection

[paul9]

Yeah, it's throwing the same code with the new one fitted. Turns out that I hadn't checked the resistance on the original, and that was in spec. Never checked the pin fitment, I just hosed the connector with contact cleaner. That is now waiting for a day off with warmer dry weather and a bit of time to myself.