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door locking clamp on frame


corradovr6
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It seems that the door seal on the passenger side is not sealing as well as it should.  I usually move the door inward slightly to tighten it up.  In this case, how much should the door clamp on the frame move?  Mine doesn't move at all!  I removed the clamp and sprayed the nut faces with wd40 but this doesn't seem to have made any difference. It doesn't move in any direction at all.  I would have thought it would move 3-5mm.

I'm loathe to loosen the mounting bolt and then tap them in an attempt to free something that perhaps is not supposed to move much.

Failing that, i'll stick a length of a D-profile seal around the frame

 

Thanks

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I suggest just easing the tubber up or you can pull it off in the area you suspect the water to be coming in and insert a thin piece of insulated wire in the rubber grove so when its pushed on it has more contact area with the door.

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3 hours ago, Derek.w said:

I suggest just easing the tubber up or you can pull it off in the area you suspect the water to be coming in and insert a thin piece of insulated wire in the rubber grove so when its pushed on it has more contact area with the door.

That's a good idea. I previously pulled a piece of rubber tubing into another door seal to push it out. Good result but really quite difficult. I think the wire trick is a better idea.

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3 hours ago, flash22 said:

does the door sit flush with the other panels ?

Pretty much, yes. Its about 2mm proud so i thought i could make it totally flush and cure the leak at the same time

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23 minutes ago, corradovr6 said:

Pretty much, yes. Its about 2mm proud so i thought i could make it totally flush and cure the leak at the same time

You can olso try pulling the door in by filing the holes in the striker plate.

Somtimes you use a piece of timber against the metal after lifting the rubber and hitting it with a hammer forcing the lip out lets say 1 to 2 mm.

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The play might be built into the lock mounting, rather than the striker. Can you make your adjustment there?

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7 hours ago, paul9 said:

The play might be built into the lock mounting, rather than the striker. Can you make your adjustment there?

Good call there. I'll try that.

Looking at the exploded door diagram it shows the hook on the door frame to be the thing to adjust both for up and down, and in and outward adjustment. No mention of the lock, so thanks for pointing that out 👍🏾

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Back the bolts off and tap the striker back, the door lock has no adjustment, but it could be badly worn

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1 hour ago, flash22 said:

Back the bolts off and tap the striker back, the door lock has no adjustment, but it could be badly worn

thats actually the issue, it doesnt want to move (either way) when tapped.

 

I think i'll try the cable behind the seal trick as per Derek's suggestion and see how that goes, failing which i'll take the seal off and try and see if i can do anything else with it.  Its just held on with some clips around the edge isnt it?

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Back the striker bolts off and give the heads a swift hit

otherwise, take 1 bolt out and loosen the other and have a look at what the nut is doing, a bar and a light tap around to see if the nut is loose

 

Edit. if its a 3 door the striker may not be adjustable via the bolts

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I seem to remember that the rear hatch striker plate is not adjustable and that some hatch doors need a hard slam for them to latch properly Mk3 Yaris.

I would find it strange that the door striker plates also cannot be moved/adjusted.

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The retained nuts in the frame dont move side to.side or up and diwn although the mounting brackets do flex backwards. I'll look into it more when i take the rear quarter panel off.

As suggested above, i removed and refitted to door seal and window seal. Seem to be more snug, but i didn't test it with a watering can.  Let's see next time i use the pressure washer!

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