Alarm Install - Total Closure

[mattmonkey]

Hi Guys.

I've a got a Meta System M928 (pretty basic alarm) and finally hooked it upto my central locking thanks to a post on this site. Anywho, while looking at the specs for the alarm, I found out that it can be hooked up for total window closure on cars with "comfort closure". Does anyone know what this is? and if I can add it to my 1.0L GS without too much trouble?

Matt.

[vmail]

do you know how long it took me to figure it out? there is no total coluser on the yaris you need a windows module, the clock are neg trigger, the module can be +ve or -ve depending on the alarm, just hook up the the control panel on the drivers side, you will need a multimeter

[mattmonkey]

Thanx for the fast reply vmail.

I've just been looking at the window modules but also my alarm details, and I've found out it provides a negative output for as long as the keyfob button is held down (max 12secs). So that got me thinking, if I connect this to the coil of a dual pole automotive relay and then attach the window lines to that it would eliminate the need for the module. Can anyone tell me if this is a good or bad idea? i.e. will it burn the motors out if only one window is open? should I just cough up the cash for the module? and how much is one of those things? And finally (thanx for reading this far btw.) how does the 'Auto' close button thing work on the driver's window? is it timed mechanically/electrically or use a sensor of some sorts? i.e. can i maniplate this for my alarm use?

P.s. this is the sort of relay i was thinking of Maplin Relay

Matt.

[vmail]

ignore the auto close control as there isnt one, auto only opens the window, the window module will only work if the passenger side button is enabled(or you can have a sepate relay for that)

I payed 50quid for my module (you dont need the module to match the make of the alarm)

you might need 2 of those replys(1 for each side), the module shouldnt control the timiming, leave it for the alarm, mine does 1.5sec (15sec) and 30sec

you might want to measure the current first 40A maybe too low, and fit a fuse to it, I cant rember what Ive got

that relay is not dule pole "The relay configuration is SPCO" so you might need 2

Im off to work as I have the safe keys, I finished work 6hrs ago, **** takes the *****

so I'll be back by about 6pm

[jaxx]

you wont burn out the motors when they reach the top as they know to cut out under a certain force, ie when the window stops moving as it hits the top!

[mattmonkey]

Thanx again for the replies guys.

I must have been a bit tired last night posting, I realised how dumb I was about the Auto 'Close'. But for the relay, that was just an example. Anyway I think I'm gonna be brave and get my self down to Halfords for a DPST relay and hook it upto my windows. Should be a fun little day. And If there is no risk of burning the motors out, I can set my alarm to auto and have a 12 second output without me holding that stupid button. (my god, I've got lazy)

Matt.

[jaxx]

ok mate if you get stuck give us a shout

[mattmonkey]

hummm.... didn't take me long to figure out I don't have a clue. Looked under the driver's window controls and there are 5 wires (blue, blue red, green, green white and red). Saw that the solid red and green goto the window motor, but maybe via a relay out of my view. So thought I'd check the passenger control and find out which wires were for that door. And there's the snag, exactly the same wires on that side.

Does the motor take just two wires and use polarity to decide direction or were the two wires I saw only part of the picture, i.e. the motor is separately grounded and one wire is to open and the other to close?

I also tried the old multimeter on the switches, to little effect, I can't figure out which contacts are bridged when the buttons are pushed.

I'd really appreciate it f any one can shed any light on this. And I promise to write up all my findings to help others.

Matt.

[vmail]

you wont burn out the motors when they reach the top as they know to cut out under a certain force, ie when the window stops moving as it hits the top!

not quite, you can still tell that it is still trying to go up when its close becase the lights go dull abit until the alarm has stopped sending the signal

try this have 1 window all the way down and 1 halfway down, lift both swithes and let go until both windows are close, it will make a funny noise when 1 has closed

[vmail]

cant be ubikd taking the car apart again, come to the meet and I'll show you

are you using a digi meter

you need to find a live +ve(on 24/7) and alarm trigger in the main car

earth can be on the door

leave the passenger side

I think you dont cut the blue one so cut the other 4 fat wires

I think you need a 15A or 25A fuse