toyota aygo low gears are showing a lot of resistance .

[David31yrs]

I recently bought a Toyota aygo which is still under warranty. 

The clutch broke and was replaced after only a couple of weeks.  

Now I am having problems with getting into first and second gear , first is the hardest.  

I have taken the car back twice and been told by the dealership owner that the car has been fixed and it is fine and the  problem is solved .

But it is still difficult to get into First gear .

They have said that that it is normal with an aygo .

Where do I go and what do I do next ? 

[flash22]

Take it to another dealer, will it go in if you go 2nd to 1st, is 3rd hard to find as well ?

Make sure a mat hasn't slipped under the pedal, take off your shoe and press the clutch and see if it goes in first

[APS]

First has always been stiff on our 2014 Aygo (2nd gen) until it warms up properly. It is more pronounced in colder weather - like this time of the year. Apply pressure, without forcing the gear-lever, and it will slip in after a few seconds. Once the gearbox oil is warm, it is much quicker.  

I only mention this as another data point - it doesn't mean it should be like this. 

[Rhymes with Paris]

Not driven Aygo myself David, but I have read on here that some find the clutch bite point a bit high until they get used to it.

[Cyker]

Your symptoms sound exactly like the problem my Mk2 Yaris' gearbox had.

I have a strong suspicion they've disturbed the clutch (Edit: Sorry, I mean GEAR!) selector cables when they did the gearbox and they no longer move the selector forks properly. If so, they will require recalibrating.

It should be a fairly quick job - My dealer charged me half of what they quoted as it was so quick!

Don't force it in to gear - I was doing that and eventually sheared off a selector fork ...!

 

Edited March 21, 2023 by Cyker
Said clutch selector cables when I meant gear selector cables! Doh!

[Stecha]

11 hours ago, David31yrs said:

I recently bought a Toyota aygo which is still under warranty. 

The clutch broke and was replaced after only a couple of weeks.  

Now I am having problems with getting into first and second gear , first is the hardest.  

I have taken the car back twice and been told by the dealership owner that the car has been fixed and it is fine and the  problem is solved .

But it is still difficult to get into First gear .

They have said that that it is normal with an aygo .

Where do I go and what do I do next ? 

IMHO try tightening your clutch cable adjuster one turn first

Was it the clutch or clutch cable that broke originally ?

[Stecha]

2 hours ago, Cyker said:

Your symptoms sound exactly like the problem my Mk2 Yaris' gearbox had.

I have a strong suspicion they've disturbed the clutch selector cables when they did the gearbox and they no longer move the selector forks properly. If so, they will require recalibrating.

It should be a fairly quick job - My dealer charged me half of what they quoted as it was so quick!

Don't force it in to gear - I was doing that and eventually sheared off a selector fork ...!

 

Not heard of that one before, didn't realise there was adjustment in the cables ??

[flash22]

The Mk2 Aygo uses a clutch cable

The Mk1 is slightly different

 

 

[mrfixer]

People seem to be discussing at cross-purposes here. There are gear selector cables and selector forks and there is the clutch cable and clutch release fok. If the clutch is improperly adjusted then you'll get 'clutch drag' (clutch not fully releasing when the pedal is down). This makes gear selection obstructive and 'hard'. You can easily adjust the clutch cable using the plastic adjuster 'nut' at the bracket on the gearbox.

Gear selector cables are a different thing and if there is wear, binding or stretching in the cables then you'll feel the issue in the gear lever itself (looseness, stiffness, gears 'not where they should be').

[flash22]

TBH it could be either as op has had a new clutch - mk1 has the adjustment at the back of the bracket, mk2 has adjustment at the arm and at the top of the pedal

selector issue in the forwards/backwards motion would show in 1-2, 3-4 and 4-3, 2-1 shifts

there is also adjustment in the pedal and free play

lack of fluid may be another issue

 

i would suspect the pedal and clutch cable need correct adjustment

[Cyker]

4 hours ago, mrfixer said:

People seem to be discussing at cross-purposes here. There are gear selector cables and selector forks and there is the clutch cable and clutch release fok. If the clutch is improperly adjusted then you'll get 'clutch drag' (clutch not fully releasing when the pedal is down). This makes gear selection obstructive and 'hard'. You can easily adjust the clutch cable using the plastic adjuster 'nut' at the bracket on the gearbox.

Gear selector cables are a different thing and if there is wear, binding or stretching in the cables then you'll feel the issue in the gear lever itself (looseness, stiffness, gears 'not where they should be').

Yes! I made a typo in my post and said clutch selector cable when I meant gear selector cable! 

In my Mk2, the problem was the gear cables had slipped slightly or something, so when I pushed the gear lever to the left against the stop, it wasn't moving it enough at the gearbox end, so when I then e.g. pushed forwards to go into 1st gear, it was clipping the gate slightly instead of slotting in properly. It got so bad I started having to pull up the Reverse collet in order to move it left enough to get into 1st gear, and because I didn't figure it out and nobody diagnosed it correctly in time, it eventually caused something to shear off in the gearbox (I suspect a selector fork...).  

The fix was to have the 2 *gear* selector cables adjusted so everything lined up properly (It must have been a common problem as there was a specific TSB for it, specifically for the Mk2 1.33 w/6-speed gearbox)

[mrfixer]

6 hours ago, flash22 said:

TBH it could be either as op has had a new clutch - mk1 has the adjustment at the back of the bracket, mk2 has adjustment at the arm and at the the pedal.

Interesting. It seems the cable on Mk1 and Mk2 is the same. The Mk2 still has the plastic adjuster nut. Why are they now specifying Mk2 adjustment is at the arm? Ease of access or another reason? I know cable adjustment tended to get overlooked...

[flash22]

It's just a change in design, they tend to implement large changes at a model change/facelift the mk2 is the same base Shell as the Mk1, with changes to the bodywork and drivetrain the 1kr got an EGR system the same as the IQ and Yaris, gearboxes also had major changes