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Aygo 2007 could anyone check cps resistance values to ground


niceone
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Hi, the 3 wires, black and white, red and orange to ground resistance. Thanks

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Crank or cam position sensor ?

You should have voltage, ground and signal

what codes do you have, what are your symptoms

 

Open would be < 1 ohm, short would be > 10K ohm you only need to check pins 1 and 3

 

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On 4/25/2023 at 12:06 PM, flash22 said:

Crank or cam position sensor ?

You should have voltage, ground and signal

what codes do you have, what are your symptoms

 

Open would be < 1 ohm, short would be > 10K ohm you only need to check pins 1 and 3

 

Its a camshaft sensor. I have code p0011 but vvt and ocv work fine. I get 3000 ohms on orange, 1600 on red and a short on black and white which I suppose is ground. My engine lacks power and sometimes shakes even though its not misfiring.

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What is the resistance of OCV aka vvt solenoid ? Have you removed the OCV filter and cleaned it ?

Any chain noise ?

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3 hours ago, flash22 said:

What is the resistance of OCV aka vvt solenoid ? Have you removed the OCV filter and cleaned it ?

Any chain noise ?

The ocv is brand new, the filter js clean. No chain noise.

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New doesn't mean it's good, especially if it's a no name Chinese one

have you pulled the cam sensor and checked the end is clean  ?

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27 minutes ago, flash22 said:

New doesn't mean it's good, especially if it's a no name Chinese one

have you pulled the cam sensor and checked the end is clean  ?

Well I put 12 volts on it in the car and the car started bogging, so its a clear indication that it works, however I dont think its being opperated by the ecu at all since I dont see the valve moving the slightest bit when watching it outside and revving the car.

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Just now, niceone said:

Well I put 12 volts on it in the car and the car started bogging, so its a clear indication that it works, however I dont think its being opperated by the ecu at all since I dont see the valve moving the slightest bit when watching it outside and revving the car.

I cleaned the cam and even tried another used one with same results.

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Check the resistance of the OCV if It's pulling too much current, the ecu will disable it

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When you pulled the filter out of the head, did you clean the oil way's out with the OCV out ?

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18 hours ago, flash22 said:

When you pulled the filter out of the head, did you clean the oil way's out with the OCV out ?

I got 9 ohms on the ocv so its not gonna pull much current. Oil ways are clean since I have cleaned the whole block when rebuilding the engine.

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Seems out of spec, it should be 6.9 to 7.9 ohms at 20ºc

did you use the correct locking tools when doing the chain and vvt

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2 hours ago, flash22 said:

Seems out of spec, it should be 6.9 to 7.9 ohms at 20ºc

did you use the correct locking tools when doing the chain and vvt

Its like 10 degrees at my place. I didnt need any special tools to just get the vvt gear on, only 2 wrenches and same for the chain, you just put it on and tighten the tensioner, rotate it a couple of times, all was good, I checked timing rn and its still good.

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1 minute ago, niceone said:

Its like 10 degrees at my place. I didnt need any special tools to just get the vvt gear on, only 2 wrenches and same for the chain, you just put it on and tighten the tensioner, rotate it a couple of times, all was good, I checked timing rn and its still good.

I doubt one ohm is gonna be much different and the ohm messurement wasnt quite stable.

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When you time the chain to the marks on the sprockets, you turn the intake cam back, so any slack is on the tensioner side guide

if you don't do this before releasing the tensioner, this puts the vvt/intake cam in the wrong position as much as +/- 10 degrees (inlet cam in relation to the vvt pulley not the chain)

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20 hours ago, flash22 said:

When you time the chain to the marks on the sprockets, you turn the intake cam back, so any slack is on the tensioner side guide

if you don't do this before releasing the tensioner, this puts the vvt/intake cam in the wrong position as much as +/- 10 degrees (inlet cam in relation to the vvt pulley not the chain)

Yeah, I did that out of common sense, just made sure all slack was tensioned when spinning everything, so I needed to put all slack on tensioner side, all should be good. 

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On 5/1/2023 at 8:50 PM, flash22 said:

Yeah thanks, I've used this manual, and all good, I have checked the timing after installing the chain by turning it over and all was good.

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1 minute ago, niceone said:

Yeah thanks, I've used this manual, and all good, I have checked the timing after installing the chain by turning it over and all was good.

I really think it's just the ecu not operating the ocv like it should since the valve doesn't appear to move when revving the engine.

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If the vvt is full advanced or retarded, the OCV will not be able to work, you need to re time the engine and follow the instructions to the letter

the P0011 is telling you that

 

either that or you got a junk vvt pulley from china

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1 hour ago, flash22 said:

If the vvt is full advanced or retarded, the OCV will not be able to work, you need to re time the engine and follow the instructions to the letter

the P0011 is telling you that

 

either that or you got a junk vvt pulley from china

Well as I said before, the ocv does work with the vvt since when I put 12 volts directly the engine starts stumbling, but when looking at the ocv outside the engine it doesnt move at all, like ecu is not sending any signal.

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It will only do its job in the right conditions it does not slam open or closed also you have a p0011, so it will not actuate due to the ecu seeing it's already advanced/retarded - check the live data with a scan tool

 

As i have said before, you have it timed incorrectly or you have a bad part

 

let's back up a moment, the engine runs and idles fine ? Give it any sort of throttle, and you get the p0011 or does it fall flat on its face ? if you do a WOT snap and it doesnt idle or takes too long to return to idle its a bad OCV

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4 hours ago, flash22 said:

It will only do its job in the right conditions it does not slam open or closed also you have a p0011, so it will not actuate due to the ecu seeing it's already advanced/retarded - check the live data with a scan tool

 

As i have said before, you have it timed incorrectly or you have a bad part

 

let's back up a moment, the engine runs and idles fine ? Give it any sort of throttle, and you get the p0011 or does it fall flat on its face ? if you do a WOT snap and it doesnt idle or takes too long to return to idle its a bad OCV

Intresting. All parts except the ocv are original and I dont understand how could I have not timed it correctly if after spining it over, the timing marks all lined up and the chain was tight. My engine runs fine in neutral, even if I press wot, everything is fine and returns to idle fast. Problems arrise with load, it seems like it has not much power and engine shakes when stopping quickly or pressing the gas a little bit, also the acceleration is very slow and only accelerates quicker or lowest gears. 

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13 minutes ago, niceone said:

Intresting. All parts except the ocv are original and I dont understand how could I have not timed it correctly if after spining it over, the timing marks all lined up and the chain was tight. My engine runs fine in neutral, even if I press wot, everything is fine and returns to idle fast. Problems arrise with load, it seems like it has not much power and engine shakes when stopping quickly or pressing the gas a little bit, also the acceleration is very slow and only accelerates quicker or lowest gears. 

The engine shaking part however is I think iac valve, so its just the bad acceleration is the symptom.

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It's that OCV, try another one

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