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Aygo 2007 could anyone check cps resistance values to ground


niceone
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2 hours ago, flash22 said:

It's that OCV, try another one

Got my hands on the original ocv and getting same code, same probs and if I connecting to 12V engine stumbles, so now it cant be the ocv.

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If that is the case, it's a cam timing issue, the chain is in the correct position but the cam in relation to the VVT is not

the exhaust cam is in a fixed position in relation to the chain, but the intake can be advanced or retarded by 10º by means of oil pressure what is controlled by the OCV

remove the chain and re time it to the letter of the instructions

 

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1 hour ago, flash22 said:
1 hour ago, flash22 said:

If that is the case, it's a cam timing issue, the chain is in the correct position but the cam in relation to the VVT is not

the exhaust cam is in a fixed position in relation to the chain, but the intake can be advanced or retarded by 10º by means of oil pressure what is controlled by the OCV

remove the chain and re time it to the letter of the 

The manual never says to adjust the cam when timing the engine. It can be adjusted by the ecu anyways.

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It does

put the chain on with the engine set correctly, rotate the intake cam counterclockwise to put the slack on the tensioner side, do 2 full rotations, check the exhaust cam pulley markings to the markings on the head, then release the tensioner

directly from the service manual

1kr INSTALL CHAIN SUB.doc

 

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2 hours ago, flash22 said:

It does

put the chain on with the engine set correctly, rotate the intake cam counterclockwise to put the slack on the tensioner side, do 2 full rotations, check the exhaust cam pulley markings to the markings on the head, then release the tensioner

directly from the service manual

1kr INSTALL CHAIN SUB.doc 92 kB · 2 downloads

 

All of this is about tension and my tension was tight, I dont think the manual means to !Removed! or to advance the camgear all it says is to put the slack on the left side where tensioner is and thats what I did before. 

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Did you replace the VVT pulley when you "rebuilt" the engine ? What was the reason for rebuilding it ? New chain and sprockets or the old, original ones ?

The inlet cam is in the wrong position, only thing it can be is a bad VVT pulley

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On 5/5/2023 at 4:08 PM, flash22 said:

Did you replace the VVT pulley when you "rebuilt" the engine ? What was the reason for rebuilding it ? New chain and sprockets or the old, original ones ?

The inlet cam is in the wrong position, only thing it can be is a bad VVT pulley

I didnt replace the pulley. I rebuilt it to switch the crankshaft. The chain and sprockets are old ones. I changed out the ECU and same stuff still happens. Idk maby it is the pulley that worked pre rebuild...

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What year was the crank from ? Did you confirm TDC of piston No. 1 via the spark plug hole rather than just the marks

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32 minutes ago, flash22 said:

What year was the crank from ? Did you confirm TDC of piston No. 1 via the spark plug hole rather than just the marks

Its from 2014 but it looked identical. I did confirm the tdc of piston nr1.

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Is that a mk1 or mk2 aygo ?

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33 minutes ago, flash22 said:

Is that a mk1 or mk2 aygo ?

Mine is mk1 and the crankshaft I think is from an mk2, but as I said are identical.

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the mk2 does have a different compression ratio

everything points to a stuck/faulty VVT gear/pulley

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2 hours ago, flash22 said:

the mk2 does have a different compression ratio

everything points to a stuck/faulty VVT gear/pulley

Took the vvt gear out and didnt see anything bad, the locking pin moves up and down easilly.

20230509_170437.jpg

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Are the internal passages clean, do you have the spring, are the passages clear in the cam

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I have the spring on the pin. If the passages were not clean they will sure be now, even though didnt seem clogged

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It wouldn't hurt to clean them out it only takes a bit of gunge to foul an oil way or valve

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On 5/9/2023 at 7:54 PM, flash22 said:

It wouldn't hurt to clean them out it only takes a bit of gunge to foul an oil way or valve

Ok so I've finnaly put it back together and I've checked the timing by removing the whole cover and all was still fine and still gatetting the same code. 

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the mk2 crank sensor is different to the mk1, only thing I can think of is the reluctor ring on the crank is different

what does the ocv filter look like

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2 hours ago, flash22 said:

the mk2 crank sensor is different to the mk1, only thing I can think of is the reluctor ring on the crank is different

what does the ocv filter look like

The rings are idenical and the filter is alright, maby its the crank sensor

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I don't think it is the crank sensor, replace the VVT pulley it may have a mechanical fault when under oil pressure

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On 5/15/2023 at 3:59 PM, flash22 said:

I don't think it is the crank sensor, replace the VVT pulley it may have a mechanical fault when under oil pressure

Ok I think Ive fixed it by adjusting the timing, not sure yet since now I have another problem. The car starts then dies, and there is much fuel, the cylinders are wet, there is spark, but it just always runs for a few seconds then dies, tried to reset immobilizer. Not getting p0011 code or any code anymore.

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Check the earth point on the right side of the head 2 wires 1 white/black and the other is brown

 

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30 minutes ago, flash22 said:

Check the earth point on the right side of the head 2 wires 1 white/black and the other is brown

 

All is good there no rust. The color of the spark is orange, hopefully that's OK.

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Orange ? Clean and gap the plugs, IIRC it should be 1.1mm

sounds like you still have it timed wrong or the reluctor on that Mk2 crank is in the wrong position, there are 3 different cranks and 2 different sensors for the Mk2

the crank chain sprocket may be different in relation to the marks on the engine find TDC on no.1 cylinder preferably with a DTI gauge and see where the marks are

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If I have no code anymore does this mean my timing is correct?

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