T sport clutch.

[Rhymes with Paris]

I think I did post a while ago about a slight difficulty in getting into gear from standstill.

In the past few days it has started to be more difficult especially reverse, to drive round it, I have been warming it up before moving, pumping the clutch , and moving the gear lever into first and second before attempting reverse.

So this is not a slipping clutch,it's the opposite, the movement from fully depressed to bite point is reducing to maybe an inch or so when cold.

The trouble is I simply can't remember what part of the clutch mechanism that this would indicate is worn,or faulty.

Or indeed if there is any clutch adjustment,or even whether it's cable or hydraulic.

Very frustrating,if it's something simple that at one time I could easily taken care of.

Now, it's due it's MOT next month,20 years birthday 🎉, so my thinking is to take it for MOT early,as I usually do, in a week or so to give time to sort any issues.

And decide whether it's the sensible thing to carry out any repairs and service necessary,as I do like the car and want to keep it, but realise if it's going to cost and arm and several legs to do this by paying mechanics, then it might be time to pass this on to a younger enthusiast who can do things themselves.

The car has 54,000 miles, and has had mature drivers who are easy on the clutch from new.

[flash22]

Throw out bearing ? Any loss of brake fluid ? When was it last flushed ? (the clutch master is fed off the brake RES)

The clutch slave is external to the gearbox, so easy to bleed

[Rhymes with Paris]

Hello flash, thankyou for replying.

I don't know what a throw out bearing is,or how to check it.

The fluid level looks ok .

No record of flushing in the service history.

So if I have understood properly, the clutch is hydraulic, the master cylinder fed from a shared reservoir with the braking system.

And the slave cylinder if needs bleeding, is easily accessible.

 

 

[flash22]

Correct. The gearbox is the older style with an arm, the slave is external, mounted to the side of the gearbox

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, so absorbs moisture over time, it should be clear if it's milky it's past its best - water compresses, as does air

first point of call is to bleed the clutch

[Rhymes with Paris]

Right, I have now a plan then thankyou flash.

Will get the early Mot done to make sure that the surface rust underneath from last year's has not turned structural, as that would probably be beyond economic repair, for me having to pay for garages/mechanics.

If it passes ok with no major problems coming up, then aswell as all the other service items, I will get the hydraulic fluid replaced anyway, so presumably that would involve the clutch and brakes being bled and flushed,would it?

 

[paul9]

Flash, water does not compress. The problem with water in the brake fluid is when it boils, it boils at a much lower temperature than brake fluid. Still, it is a bad thing to have water in your brake fluid.

[flash22]

You can bleed the clutch on its own just keep the res topped up, but it's not a bad idea to flush the brakes at the same time

[APS]

 

19 hours ago, Rhymes with Paris said:

I will get the hydraulic fluid replaced anyway, so presumably that would involve the clutch and brakes being bled and flushed,would it?

What Bob said. The clutch circuit is often overlooked and left with ages old fluid. Flush both brake and clutch circuits to be on the safe side. Unless the clutch cylinders have corroded badly (unlikely), it should work like new again.

[Rhymes with Paris]

Ok, thank you flash and APS.

It's so useful having knowledgeable people on here who are willing to share.