Vins213 Posted September 2 Author Posted September 2 On 9/1/2024 at 5:42 PM, flash22 said: connect to the car - entry and start - click on utility (left menu) - customise - engine start indicator turn it off I don't have it in 'other' there is no options viewed
flash22 Posted September 3 Posted September 3 looks like the issue is with the certification ECU - not much you can do about that, apart from disconnecting the red from the switch plug - there is a chance there is an internal fault with the switch
Vins213 Posted September 3 Author Posted September 3 1 minute ago, flash22 said: looks like the issue is with the certification ECU - not much you can do about that, apart from disconnecting the red from the switch plug - there is a chance there is an internal fault with the switch Ok, so I have to pull the red wire from the connector
MikeSh Posted September 3 Posted September 3 16 hours ago, Vins213 said: I don't have it Is it not the "Engine/EV System Start Indicator" in picture 2 above?
flash22 Posted September 3 Posted September 3 that is the EV light on the dash 31 minutes ago, MikeSh said: Is it not the "Engine/EV System Start Indicator" in picture 2 above? 1 1
Vins213 Posted September 3 Author Posted September 3 I think I leave it as it is, the led button consumption is very low
MikeSh Posted September 3 Posted September 3 46 minutes ago, Vins213 said: I think I leave it as it is, the led button consumption is very low Presumably disconnecting the red wire will turn it off. Does that affect the button function? If not then you could probably do without the light rather than have that parasitic drain.
Vins213 Posted September 3 Author Posted September 3 15 minutes ago, MikeSh said: Does that affect the button function? If not then you could probably do without the light rather than have that parasitic drain. IDK this is the diagram of the red wire from the power switch
MikeSh Posted September 3 Posted September 3 1 hour ago, Vins213 said: this is the diagram of the red wire from the power switch Certainly looks like it only supplies the LEDs *, so I'd try disconnecting it and see what happens. * I've found that sometimes auto diagrams don't show everything connected to a circuit, though usually they reference another diagram(s) for the other bit(s).
Vins213 Posted September 3 Author Posted September 3 22 minutes ago, MikeSh said: Certainly looks like it only supplies the LEDs *, so I'd try disconnecting it and see what happens. * I've found that sometimes auto diagrams don't show everything connected to a circuit, though usually they reference another diagram(s) for the other bit(s). The problems are: I have to disassemble the dash again I have to pull out the very little wire from the connector I don't know how to re-assemble the wire to the connector if something goes wrong ahah
flash22 Posted September 3 Posted September 3 yes the red wire, the ECU talks via can bus to the certification ecu that controls the illumination you remove the wire by releasing the locking tab you then use a pin/needle or de-pinning tool to flick the hook down through the small hole above that pin while keeping tension on the wire tape up the wire you have removed, push the locking tab back down A quick Bing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QE7DdnD9cto&ab_channel=iWireSubaruWiringSolutions you do not have to strip the whole dash down pop the pad off unclip the heater controls 1
Vins213 Posted September 3 Author Posted September 3 16 minutes ago, flash22 said: you remove the wire by releasing the locking tab you then use a pin/needle or de-pinning tool to flick the hook down through the small hole above that pin while keeping tension on the wire tape up the wire you have removed, push the locking tab back down That easy? Well I try to remove later, thanks as always
flash22 Posted September 3 Posted September 3 You get the knack for it after the first few 😜 you need to stick your tongue out at the right angle too 3
Vins213 Posted September 3 Author Posted September 3 27 minutes ago, flash22 said: You get the knack for it after the first few 😜 you need to stick your tongue out at the right angle too Well it was not so easy ahah!! done, the led button doesn't work but the button works perfectly 🙂 thanks!! 2 2
MikeSh Posted September 3 Posted September 3 4 hours ago, flash22 said: tape up the wire you have removed I find typical insulating tape starts to unravel in time, so I put a small cable-tie over the tape to keep it secure. That is unless it's going to be snugged into a loom with some jacket over it, like spiral wrap, so it can't unwind. If that jacket is made of, or is held by, insulating tape - eg. if repairing an OEM loom I've cut to get to the wiring - then I'll use some ties to make sure that stays firm. 1
Vins213 Posted September 4 Author Posted September 4 9 hours ago, MikeSh said: I find typical insulating tape starts to unravel in time, so I put a small cable-tie over the tape to keep it secure. That is unless it's going to be snugged into a loom with some jacket over it, like spiral wrap, so it can't unwind. If that jacket is made of, or is held by, insulating tape - eg. if repairing an OEM loom I've cut to get to the wiring - then I'll use some ties to make sure that stays firm. I taped up the wire and I tied a little knot, so the wire is firmly and the first thing it can touch is plastic plate 1
flash22 Posted September 4 Posted September 4 it depends on the tape you use and the conditions it is used in, insulting tape comes in all sorts of grades and prices, from wonhunglow 10p a roll to proper 3M or Tesa eg. 3M Scotch Super 88 https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/electrical-tapes/9094521?srsltid=AfmBOornHpHShgDzhH7HP-3JMvcRt8eeklp8Z80Udy8snFyGvddn0hQx if you want to get fancy you can use heat shrink 1 piece over the terminal with 5-10mm extra shrink it down fold it over the end, heat shrink over that self-amalgamating tape is fun too
MikeSh Posted September 4 Posted September 4 32 minutes ago, flash22 said: it depends on the tape you use and the conditions it is used in, insulting tape comes in all sorts of grades and prices, True. The stuff I have is probably at the "insulting" end of the scale and quite old too, so I don't take a chance. I do have some self-amalgamating tape I use for outdoors mainly (eg. protecting aerial connections) but I still finish it with a cable tie. 36 minutes ago, flash22 said: if you want to get fancy you can use heat shrink Of course - I forgot that. Definitely my preference but often not easy or practical. Probably good for Vins' job above where it can be slid on easily, but if I'm T-ing into an existing wire I try to avoid cutting the core so can't usually get a shrink tube over the joint. I'm also a bit chary of using a heat gun in the guts of a dashboard though I have used a soldering iron instead - the results are usually ... let's say 'serviceable' 🤫
MardyMarvin Posted September 6 Posted September 6 I do find it interesting why so many people want to light up the footwells more than they currently are. Never look at mine I get in the car and drive, never need to look at my feet. I am not saying it's daft or anything so please don't take it that way just curious as to why people do this. I can get that they want to replace switches that light up better like the windows etc. Perhaps its because I am more a practical person than aesthetic person on lots of things. 1
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