MK3 alternator replacement - advice needed please

[Nattib]

Hello. A few days agao my car dashboard lit up (Battery, power steering, ABS and traction control) whilst driving and it felt like a tank. I was able to park it safely and called the AA, they said that the alternator needs to be replaced. A friend checked the 12v Battery and messured level as 8.9v. 
I have been able to read the label of the current alternator:

Valeo
W35/14
41408666
12V - 85A
27060-0Y120

I have looked for 12v - 85A alternators (on eurocarparts and autodoc) but the websites give me a list of both 12v and 14v which are ment to be compatable with my Yaris MK3. Can I use either a 12v or 14v? Should I be looking at only 12v? That might be a simple question but I am still trying to understand my car so any help will be appreciated.
Thank you.

[Bernard Foy]

I’m no expert, however I would go for a straight 12v replacement.

[Red_Corolla]

I strongly suspect they're both the same specification. 12v is the nominal Battery voltage, 14v is what the alternator actually generates in order for power transfer to take place. Two different ways of quoting the same thing?

[Nattib]

Sorry just to clarify. I have seen some alternators which are 12v 85a and others which ae 14v 85a.

[Nattib]

1 hour ago, Red_Corolla said:

I strongly suspect they're both the same specification. 12v is the nominal battery voltage, 14v is what the alternator actually generates in order for power transfer to take place. Two different ways of quoting the same thing?

Thanks for explaining that bit 😀

[flash22]

The EPC states 12v 85a (1NRFE, 1.33) don't buy the cheapest one you can find, some of these Chinese reman ones are utter junk

be aware most places will have a surcharge until you return the old one

Valeo and a few others will rate their aftermarket alternators at 14v (14v - at 90a or 12v at 85a)

[Max_Headroom]

Before you go out and spend  a chunk of money on an alternator test the Battery and alternator yourself its easy to do and  multi-meters are only around £8 from places like Halfords.

 

 

[wildtapholer]

Most car DIY stores will test the Battery and alternator free.

[Derek.w]

Need it quickly try GSF car parts plus they take the old unit in part exchange at the time of collection or a couple of weeks later if you prefer.

If you have time check out the bearings if its sweet when you spin the shaft then look at the carbon brushes if short in length no spring pressure plus ends of at least one is burnt a new set is a lot cheaper the Battery try charging it ferst you never know it can work sometimes with a new/reconditioned alternator.

[Nattib]

 

On 7/30/2023 at 9:35 PM, Nattib said:

Valeo
W35/14
41408666
12V - 85A
27060-0Y120

Something else I noticed when looking for alternators (12v 85a), my current one has the number "27060-0Y120" but those which I have found so far have the following numbers:

27060 0Y270

27060 0Q200

27060 0J061

27060 0Y130

Can I use one of these or should I just focus on searching for alternators with "27060-0Y120"?

 

[flash22]

Replace like for like - if you are on a budget, buy a used one for £40-60

 

 

For reference

27060 0Y270 - 05/2015 onwards only

27060 0Q200 - 1kr 1.0l only

27060 0J061 - Mk2 Yaris (wrong pulley and offset) Bosch

27060 0Y130 - early Mk3, 100A replaced with 27060 OY160 (cold Spec)

 

 

[Derek.w]

If you cannot find a replacment from a scrapyard then have the old one overhauled new bearings and carbon brushes.

If you going to repair it yourself then you may get away with carbourn brushes but mark the case in someway for re-alightment as you need tobe accurate on re-assembly.

[bathtub tom]

1 hour ago, Derek.w said:

If you cannot find a replacment from a scrapyard then have the old one overhauled new bearings and carbon brushes.

If you going to repair it yourself then you may get away with carbourn brushes but mark the case in someway for re-alightment as you need tobe accurate on re-assembly.

If you do it yourself, make sure you've clean hands. I had an alternator start to fail when on holiday and took it to a local auto electrician (he said). The radio started to crackle in frequency with engine revs on the way home. I took the alternator apart and found greasy finger marks all over the slip rings!

[Nattib]

Sorry for very late response but thank you for the help. Alternator has been replaced and car runs as if nothing happen 🙂 Next thing now is to learn about what things I can change myself for example the car filters as I don't when they were last changed.

[flash22]

Oil, air and cabin filters are all easy items as are oil and plug changes

[Stevie J]

I think you may need a special tool to remove the oil filter on the 1.33 engine, as this is a different design to the previous 1.3 which had a conventional spin on oil filter.

I used to change the oil on my old 1.3 2006 Yaris Mk2 myself and it was pretty easy to do, but the later 1.33 engine found in the Mk3 seems to have a plastic housing that had to be removed with a special tool and be drained before it is removed using a bleed screw. The filter itself is a pleated filter insert that is what is changed.

Cabin filter is simple as it is just a matter of removing the glovebox, and unclipping the cabin filter door behind it, revealing the filter. Not changed the air filter on a 1.33 yet, but I dont think that looks to difficult to do after removing the plastic engine cover.