Used 2014 Auris maintenance

[ThomasBZ]

Hi,

So I just got a used Auris over a month ago. It is a 2014 , 73 kw, 1.8 Hybrid with nearly 117.000 km on it.

So far I am happy with the purchase. Having driven diesel cars before, I have little experience with petrol, leave alone hybrid cars. I have done my fair share of research before the purchase, so I am aware of the most important things to look after. I am sure there are a few things I have missed. My goal being to extend it's lifetime as much as possible, I would like to ask for general maintenance advise, best oil and filter change frequency,  hybrid Battery fan (filter) cleaning/changing frequency, spark plugs, etc. Any weak points I should aware of?

e.g - I've been suggested by someone to change engine oil every 7,000 km. Which I am pretty sure is an overkill.

 

Also any thoughts on rust coating? I've had quite a bit of a rust issue on my previous 2006 Skoda, which is a common issue for that car.  the weather being quite harsh with the salt and changing temperatures where I am from, I am considering getting the underfloor coated.

 

Much appreciated for any piece of advise!

[TonyHSD]

Hi and welcome. 
Good choice for diesel replacement. These cars are as good and as efficient like diesels , even better. For services and maintenance here it’s an interesting and informative post, plenty of info of how to and when to change things in regular service. 

There are two important jobs that require attention to maintain long and trouble free life of your car: 

1. EGR system cleaning usually every 100k miles 

2. Hybrid Battery cooling fan cleaning procedure 

The rest is mostly oil and filters changes every 10k miles or 12 months. 
Best anti corrosion treatment is no treatment but regular car washes under vehicle, engine bay, radiators etc, especially during winter and if you are regular motorway user. 👌

[furtula]

Considering the engine is chain driven, regular oil change intervals are the best preventine maintenance. Every year or 6k miles is what i would do.

Doing 10k miles would be too much for me, especially if you don't control oil that much, or don't bother to top it off.

Spark plugs you can change now, otherwise they have 100k miles lifespan.

For the undercoat i would go with some kind of wax product, if possible.

The black undercoat that everyone tends to use looks nice on the eye, but it tends to crack and let water seep in, and hold it there, which just has the opposite effect.

 

[AisinW]

The auris 2 has pretty good underbody covers. The plastic covers help the underbody from chips and nicks.  The common surface rust area are:

1. Radiator support brace area, bolts and nuts around stabilizer bar links. 

2. Struts tower right under the spring. I scrubs them and apply Nigrin rust stop. 4 hours later spray it with the paint+primer from Lidl/Aldi. It holds well for 2 years already. 

3. Control arms on the vertical sides. Just surface rust, scrub and paint it over after rust stop treatment. 

The crevice and area on the rocker panels, fenders, doors are not prone to rust but you can apply a FluidFilm fat/wool spray. 

[AisinW]

@ThomasBZ i forgot a very important thing for 2ZR-FXE engine pre 2015. Do 5k miles/6 months oil change interval and you can avoid engine oil consumption as long as possible. If you really want to do 10k miles/1 year interval, get higher quality oil than Toyota required (API SN/SP). Certified Longlife IV type oil 508/509 (whatever brand) always has higher standard than Toyota API SN or newer API SP. Either get it from skoda/seat/vw, or Dexos from Voxhaul, they are abundant and not too expensive. Longlife IV oil is designed up to 2 y/20k miles interval and doing 10k miles/1 y give you a bit slack of oil life. Those certified oil has higher ratio of groupIV PAO oil. (Ravenol VSE, Mannol 7722, Mobil1, Castrol Edge LL IV, genuine VAG 508/509, etc.). 

Certification required lab tests and API SP has way more test than API SN. Dexos 1 gen2/3 and VW508/509 test are even more stringent than API SP. 

Oilc consumption leads to clogged EGR valve, and snowball to bigger problems.

 

[furtula]

You can just get one of those oil  pumps and replace the oil like that, without touching the filters. Normal service intervals are 10k, and oil filter is to be done on 2nd oil change, so they expect 20k miles life out of them. So investing in an Battery powered oil pump for a quick and not that messy replacement would be what i would do.

[AisinW]

1 hour ago, furtula said:

You can just get one of those oil  pumps and replace the oil like that, without touching the filters. Normal service intervals are 10k, and oil filter is to be done on 2nd oil change, so they expect 20k miles life out of them. So investing in an battery powered oil pump for a quick and not that messy replacement would be what i would do.

Toyota service manual stated, we must drain it from the drain bolts to remove most of the deposit and filter at the same time with 1y/10k miles interval.  The worst part of the oil is always at the bottom of the oil pan and removing the rain plug takes 1 minutes + 5 minutes jacking right side of the car and open the 3 clips that hold the plastic cover.  I also changed the oil filter every other oil change because I do 6-8 months intervals.  I spent 12k miles a year, oil change 5k miles in winter (December) and 7k miles in summer(July).   So far, 95k miles no oil consumption at all, 3000k miles alone in Alps and Black forest driving with a lot of lugging and steep climbing. I used BluePrint filter, they are well made and still very stiff even when I did 10k miles interval.  Be careful with FAKE Toyota Filter, it is better to buy aftermarket from welknown brand instead buying Toyota filter from unknown online stores. 

The worn parts are rear stabilizer links bottom rubbers (2 sets), fron brake disc/pads (from rust and uneven  pads etching).  Everything else are still original including the 8years old 12V Battery.  I drain the coolant couple weeks ago and it is still redish clear (new is pink) without any deposit, I probably did it a bit too early (10y/100k miles interval).  Yes, the rear stabilizer links bottom rubbers always looks fine but after about 50k miles, they are swell and replace that rubber alone increase the handling dramatically.  I think because I went downhill in Alps at high speed 50-60 mph and the front tires side tread are chewed.  I did not change my brake fluid for the past 5 years but I will in the 7th year.  It is still at very low wear with <1% water content and no burning color at all. Still amber like new fluid.

Don't replace the rear stabilizer bar links with inferior aftermarket. The original Toyota metal parts alone cost more than £300 (2 needed), aftermarket is only £30 or less.  We need only the bottom rubber parts either from FEBEST (£10) or Toyota (£60) or buy links and swap only the rubber parts.

 

     

[Saxmaniac]

Pre 2015 1.8 engine is known to be an oil burner if oil changes are neglected, I'd opt for 5000 miles and filter as they're cheap, also drain from sump not pump out, it's not difficult. Strip, clean the brakes, lube sliding pins, change brake fluid, while you're messing around testing it, you might as well just change it, easy and cheap. I've been using fluid film lately for rust prevention, suspension, subframe, inside box sections etc. It reminds wet and is thin fluid. Battery fan/filter depends on how much dirt you generate but inspect and form your own idea of how often it's needed 

[AisinW]

Just keep in mind, 5000 miles is 8000 Km.  I also agree that we should change oil more often for pre-2015 1.8L.  Although the post 2015 engine batch has less tendency to burn oil, 7500 miles or 12 000 Km/8 months interval or less will keep the engine piston rings clean.  Any API SP or ACEA C5 grade is enough for that interval. 

[TonyHSD]

If you drive only up to 10k miles per year,  either is 2, 4 or 6-7k miles , anything really up to 10k miles and you do service once as recommended by the manufacturer within these 12 months time intervals you won’t have any issues. 10k miles aren’t high mileage intervals.
Todays cars, engines and oils are different from 20-30 years ago and 10k miles intervals counts as normal. 
But if you really want to do early oil changes , add any anti corrosion protection, paint protection, wrapping, ceramic coats etc feel free to do so. It’s your car, your investment and your joy of working on. 👌👍

[Eddiefh]

Hi Tony when should I change coolent on a 1.6 petrol 2017 ?

[TonyHSD]

44 minutes ago, Eddiefh said:

Hi Tony when should I change coolent on a 1.6 petrol 2017 ?

Good question.

I don’t know the exact answer though., perhaps the car manual will have some information. 

I know about hybrids with pink coolant first change is at 100k miles or 10 years for the engines and then after every 50k miles or 5 years.
Perhaps the 1.6 if it has the same pink coolant will be the same intervals.  👌

[AisinW]

6 hours ago, Eddiefh said:

Hi Tony when should I change coolent on a 1.6 petrol 2017 ?

All Toyota has 10y/100k miles interval for coolant post 2004 with super long life phospated HOAT (Pink). The red coolant for older Toyota is 5y/50k miles interval.   However, after the 1st change, the next one is 5y/50k miles interval.  Unlike German cars who claim has lifetime coolant by either adding silica gel on the tank or plainly their lifespan is not that long anyway.  Pentosin, the makers of G12++ and G13 for VAG stated that the lifespand for the additives is also about 100k miles, not lifetime.  Some VW owners destroy their heater core because the silica gel ruptures and clog the heater core. Easily £1000 job to change a heater core.  So, just plain simple, drain from the radiator faucet, and refill from the reservoir.  Toyota SLLC coolant is not cheap but still ok. About £35 per gallon.  

[Eddiefh]

11 hours ago, AisinW said:

All Toyota has 10y/100k miles interval for coolant post 2004 with super long life phospated HOAT (Pink). The red coolant for older Toyota is 5y/50k miles interval.   However, after the 1st change, the next one is 5y/50k miles interval.  Unlike German cars who claim has lifetime coolant by either adding silica gel on the tank or plainly their lifespan is not that long anyway.  Pentosin, the makers of G12++ and G13 for VAG stated that the lifespand for the additives is also about 100k miles, not lifetime.  Some VW owners destroy their heater core because the silica gel ruptures and clog the heater core. Easily £1000 job to change a heater core.  So, just plain simple, drain from the radiator faucet, and refill from the reservoir.  Toyota SLLC coolant is not cheap but still ok. About £35 per gallon.  

So to drain through the yellow looking tap on radiator near bottom and then fill through expansion tank with pink coolent until it reaches max level in expansion tank at 10 year point ? 

[furtula]

Coolant flush is done on cold engine, and the levels should be measured when engine is cold, just something to bear in mind when doing the flush.

You can flush it anytime, no need to wait for exact dates.

[TonyHSD]

41 minutes ago, Eddiefh said:

So to drain through the yellow looking tap on radiator near bottom and then fill through expansion tank with pink coolent until it reaches max level in expansion tank at 10 year point ? 

Yes, it is actually not a flush but drain and refill only. 
Before you start the process make sure your heating is set to max temperature, AC off, fan speed 1. 
Open reservoir cap , place a 9mm ID tube into the radiator drain and a suitable container 5ltr minimum capacity. Undo the yellow tap, you may need to use gloves for extra grip or even pliers carefully to crack it open. Do not fully remove , just few turns and make sure it stays securely on the tap. Let it drain completely, 5 ltr in hybrids. After you finish, re do the yellow tap, do mot over tight, remove clear tube, and now you are ready to fill up new ready mix pink coolant. When reservoir is full and it does not take more , start the engine and let it run at idle to reach work temperature, keep an eye on the coolant level and top up to the max as necessary. After around 20 min or so the engine temperature should reach around 95C° and the radiator fans should kick in and spin, the system will suck more coolant from the reservoir so be prepared to top up. Check heating is blowing hot air and if yes you can wait until radiator fans stop spinning and switch off the car. Wait 10-15 min and re check level, add more if necessary up to the max level.
Place the cap on the reservoir, job done. 👌

[Eddiefh]

Hi Tony , can I just check the 9 mm tube goes into / where the yellow tap/ drain plug is ?

[TonyHSD]

3 hours ago, Eddiefh said:

Hi Tony , can I just check the 9 mm tube goes into / where the yellow tap/ drain plug is ?

Yes. If you don’t change transmission fluid or have any other work that require to remove the whole engine under tray there are holes for that drain and you can access the yellow plug too without removing the tray.
Just lift the car up and secure safely, have a look and you will see how the things are set. I like how Toyota does the things, with few exceptions their cars are easy to work on. 

[Eddiefh]

Thanks Tony, I’ve not got a visual temp gauge on verso dash so like you say run for 20 minutes and keep an eye on the fan coming on ? Would that be correct 

[AisinW]

7 hours ago, Eddiefh said:

Hi Tony , can I just check the 9 mm tube goes into / where the yellow tap/ drain plug is ?

You can put a wide engine oil pan under the radiator. It is not that messy and all fluid will be contained.  It works flawlessly in Auris 2.  I don't  need to open any plastic cover either. From the 2nd hole under the foucet, we can snake in our hand there. 5 -10 cm jacking the car up make it a bit easier for our hand to grab the faucet.  The SLLC coolant is a bit expensive in Europe, do 10y/100k miles is more than enough. 

I found no debrees and it is stil very clear. The pH is also identical to the new one. Only the dye is getting redder. 

[Eddiefh]

40 minutes ago, AisinW said:

You can put a wide engine oil pan under the radiator. It is not that messy and all fluid will be contained.  It works flawlessly in Auris 2.  I don't  need to open any plastic cover either. From the 2nd hole under the foucet, we can snake in our hand there. 5 -10 cm jacking the car up make it a bit easier for our hand to grab the faucet.  The SLLC coolant is a bit expensive in Europe, do 10y/100k miles is more than enough. 

I found no debrees and it is stil very clear. The pH is also identical to the new one. Only the dye is getting redder. 

10 year point ? So no requirement to do early as long as it’s not over 100k 

[AisinW]

If you have non hybrid model, it has regular belt driven water pump. Some suggest to change the water pump at the same time on the 2nd change 15y/150k miles. Typically the water pump start leaking at around 150-200k miles in Toyota. Replacing the thermostat and thermostat housing at the same time is a good idea too. The plastic pipe right after the thermostat in V6 3.3 L were famous for sudden burst at about 200k miles. But it is not common in 4 cylinder Toyota. I personally had one and the coolant are all gone in seconds. Fortunately, I cought it within 5 minutes later because the AC is suddenly warm too and the temperature gauge go to 0/cold because no coolant left to read.  The engine was saved and run for another 30k miles before I sold it and moved to Europe. 

[AisinW]

I just bought Toyota OEM clip on screen for Auris 2 hybrid Battery cooling intake.  I added a dried wet wipe on it because Toyota has no filter on our Auris. I plan to replace that custom filter every year. Therefore, no more dirt and dust on the fan and intake.