P1346 DTC

[ShiftedReality1990]

I also have a video of the engine after it has warmed up. 

Pete

[ShiftedReality1990]

The engine sounds alot noiser on the video for some reason. Possibly my phone camera has amplified the noise? The engine is really quiet in person.

[flash22]

That plug doesn't look that clever, I can't put my finger on it

you can take the plug apart, hook out the seals in the rear, pull out the white locking tab, flick the tab on the terminal and push the wire

[ShiftedReality1990]

I never considered the wiring to be off but as it is, I'm willing to try anything. I will see what I can do with the plug, try and clean it up and try that. Does it look dirty to you?

 

Pete

[ShiftedReality1990]

Further updates to the saga, 

Ive been busy this week with work so I've been unable to try the wiring advice given by Flash22. I will perform the tests and clean the wiring this weekend and report back. 

 

Just a personal hunch, I've ordered a new Camshaft Sensor to try as well. Might as well change it as I don't know how old the one currently is. The new OCV has definitely improved performance so I might as well try a new camshaft sensor.

 

I'll update as I know, 

 

Pete

[flash22]

A resistance change in the wiring it enough for it to throw a code, The same code repeated times shows it's electrical, the OCV is wired direct to the ECU

A Cam sensor will throw another code, it's worth checking the resistance tho

[ShiftedReality1990]

Hi Flash22, 

I understand what you mean. I'll probably check it tomorrow as it has been a lovely wet day here in West Yorkshire. 🌧️☔ 

Just curious, do you know the correct resistance of the camshaft sensor? I'll test the current one while I'm digging in the engine bay before the new one arrives.

 

Pete

[flash22]

It comes with experience and a little bit of googling or looking up the data

anything <1 ohm or over 10k ohm is a good sign, it's not right

 

Resistance

Cold >950 ohms

Hot <1900 ohms

[ShiftedReality1990]

Hi all, further updates on the saga, 

So I have checked the wiring and connectors as Flash22 suggested, had a look at the connectors and given them a good clean. I didn't want to end up breaking something so I used electrical cleaner for the connectors and made sure they were spotless. I didn't fancy pulling out wires and end up messing them up. I also installed a new camshaft sensor that arrived this morning and yet.... Still remains. MOT on Friday so I know its going to fail as it is with the light on. I've ran out of ideas. I can only think that the timing is off by a tooth. Another person on a forum mentioned that they retimed the timing and that fixed it. The garage I went to last year must have knocked the timing out or something? I really don't fancy paying 100's of pounds for an engine tear down, only for the garage to install a new chain kit again like last year.

 

I'm going to check the wiring loom and see if I can find anything. 

 

I'll keep posting updates when I have them.

 

Pete

[ShiftedReality1990]

Just curious, what should the OCV wiring harness voltage be at at idle? 

 

Pete

[flash22]

It doesn't work that way, it's only 2 wires

if the timing was out, it would run rough and throw codes for the cam/crank, the P1346 is showing an issue with the cam timing when under vvti (actual vs expected)

I would double-check that ocv filter, check the oil level (make sure its near max), too thin/thick an oil (5w30), a bad or leaking Vvt pulley may be an issue

 

disconnect the Battery for 15-20 mins it may have learnt some bad habits

 

[ShiftedReality1990]

Hi again some updates to share, 

So after following Flash22's advice and checking everything (all looks well) I couldn't find anything at fault. Oil level is fine, OCV filter is clean, and I always use quality oils 5W30 but I really don't know about the vvt pulley so I can't say. I'm possibly looking down this route next ....

I took my car for the Mot on Friday and.... she failed.

Some welding work is required (I'll post some photos below) interestingly the garage failed to mention the engine light (I reset the ecu before she went in and the light must not have turned back on during the test) The emissions were absolutely golden so I'm certain that the timing is perfectly fine as Flash22 said. 

The garage has quoted me between £400-£600 for the welding work and they will throw another mot in the price as it'll be after 10 days of the failed test. Garage seems to be honest as I've been with them before for a brake caliper job (whole other subject) and they did a good, honest job. Apart from the welding, everything else is fine apart from a tyre at the front being warn. The work will be done on the 20th October. 

I'm only just getting over the shock of the result but I actually want to keep my car going as it has been so reliable these last 2 years in my ownership. 

I'll update when I have more information, 

Pete

[ShiftedReality1990]

[ShiftedReality1990]

The 1st 2 pictures are in the engine bay near both front struts. The last picture is at O/S/R right at the back near wheel arch. 

The 1st 2 areas of corrosion are where the ground wires are situated so I'm just wondering if this is what could possibly be causing the P1346 in some way? I could be completely wrong about this but if those ground wires aren't getting a proper solid connection given that the areas are rusty, could they be causing some problems?

Pete

[flash22]

yes it looks like a heavy ground and that will cause electrical gremlins, ground with find the path of least resistance

 

not seen suspension towers that bad in a long while, rear arch/seal is very common rot area on the Mk1 - looks like it lived on the coast or a farm

[ShiftedReality1990]

Yeah I'll see if I can get a decent ground for the wires around the area and see what I can do. It might be the cause of the dtc code as you say, electrical gremlins. Worth a try. 

Well I live in West Yorkshire so no coast or farms but possibly the previous owners may have? I'm the 4th owner. The rest of the bodywork is solid and no rust anywhere else given the car age. We've spent a few quid on it with a new exhaust system and timing chain last year, the consumables and other bits and pieces I've done myself in my ownership. I'm in 2 minds about getting it done. I love the car but I'm afraid if the garage find rust further down the strut towers. 143k miles. If I did decide to go ahead with the repairs, I'd definitely get an underseal product on to prevent further corrosion and give it a good sand down underneath 

Pete

[icecreamtruckdriver]

Hello, did you manage to diagnose the P1346? I have an '04 Yaris XP10, 130 kkm with the 2SZ-FE and keep getting the check engine light and P1346. I replaced the camshaft sensor, I pulled out the VVT solenoid, cleaned it with brake cleaner, measured it to 7,5 kOhm, measured the wiring harness earthing points for ground faults. The fault can be cleared and goes away and then randomly pops up again. The car also runs fine. I was wondering is it the ECU? I mean the car is 20 years old so the capacitors are about that age that they get leaky.

[flash22]

7.5k ohm (7500 ohms) is that the OCV or the cam sensor ?

OCV - 6.9 to 7.9 ohms @ 20ºc

Cam sensor - 2.2k ohm (2200 ohms) @ 20ºc

check and clean the grounds on the strut towers

[icecreamtruckdriver]

Sorry, 7,5 Ohms OCV.  I recalled that it was kOhm but luckily I took a picture. I'll try cleaning the ground contacts.

[icecreamtruckdriver]

I tested with a multimeter from the Battery positive terminal to the negative terminal as well as all the earthing points under the hood as well as the engine. Both with the engine off and on. That would suggest that the earthing is okay?

[flash22]

It may be physically connected but may not be able to handle any current try a ground wire between the body and block