2007 1.6 Auris rear brakes, caliper rewind

[furtula]

Preparing to replace back calipers on both sides and doing some research.

Supposedly the left side ones retract clockwise, and right ones retract anti clockwise at least according to 

I did find some videos where the left side pads are being replaced and they wound it clockwise. However for the right side i only found one, it says 2006 to 2012, butthe car is facelift model, and the piston is wound clockwise.

So my guess is maybe there was some change there.

 

Can anyone confirm the correct rotation, or if there is some way to find out when i take it out?

 

[Bper]

36 minutes ago, furtula said:

Preparing to replace back calipers on both sides and doing some research.

Supposedly the left side ones retract clockwise, and right ones retract anti clockwise at least according to 

I did find some videos where the left side pads are being replaced and they wound it clockwise. However for the right side i only found one, it says 2006 to 2012, butthe car is facelift model, and the piston is wound clockwise.

So my guess is maybe there was some change there.

 

Can anyone confirm the correct rotation, or if there is some way to find out when i take it out?

 

Hi Dean, 

Take a look at this video it may help.👍

https://youtu.be/ZARSyPYOAb4?feature=shared

 

 

[furtula]

I was searching for videos, but kind of missed this one. It had all the info i need.

I don't have anti clockwise tool ,so i might try needle nose pliers like in the video, or just wide pliers i saw  somewhere else, hopefully it will be enough.

So left is clockwise, right is anti clockwise, will try in a day or two.

Many thanks Bob.

[flash22]

Use the pin tool with an extension bar mine takes a 1/2"

i have the standard tool but use an adjustable pin tool on the rears as Toyota decided it would be good to mix manufacturers, front and rear

eg

https://www.drapertools.com/product/99823/adjustable-2-and-3-pin-brake-piston-wind-back-adaptor/

[TonyHSD]

Just try and see which side the pistons turn , in hybrids both L and R turn clockwise, to the right and go you try to return they stop. 

[furtula]

Tried it now, left side, back caliper, should be clockwise, wont budge. Tried counter clockwise, same.

The cap on oil reservoir was off. I even tried undoing the bleeder screw, oil was dripping a bit, but no help.

Any advice?

[DerekHa]

Hi Dean,

You're having real problems there. If that piston won't wind back sounds as though it may have siezed inside the bore of the caliper opening the bleed valve on the caliper was a good idea and should have allowed the piston to be wound back.

Have you got some locking grips/pliers that you can carefully use on the exposed rim of the piston? You'll need to be careful not to pinch and damage the rubber seal/boot that sits behind it though! Once locked on tight tried applying alternate clockwise and anti clockwise force along with a a few taps on the face of the piston and with a little luck the piston will start to move in the required direction. Also make sure you clean all the dirt and debris away from the rubber boot.

Good luck with things mate.

Worst case is you'll need to replace the caliper

[TonyHSD]

28 minutes ago, furtula said:

Tried it now, left side, back caliper, should be clockwise, wont budge. Tried counter clockwise, same.

The cap on oil reservoir was off. I even tried undoing the bleeder screw, oil was dripping a bit, but no help.

Any advice?

You will need a help from a friend. 
Ask a friend to pull handbrake lever up while you are watching the piston coming out, if no friend available you do it by yourself.
Make the piston moving outward first and then it will eventually go inward, turning clockwise to the right. You may need to rebuild or change the calliper as it seems the piston has got corrosion and it is solid., something to take into account. 

[furtula]

The piston was working fine, however i would say right side has newer pads. On the left side it's gone almost to the metal. 

I was always checking the right side and thought both sides were good, also no sound from the scraper that should notify you about the issue.

Scrapper is there, just worn on the disc.

I don't want to push the piston outwards anymore. I can still put the original pads in, and go to a shop, so that i will keep as backup.

I'll give it a shot with the pliers but i'm not that optimistic in general.

[Mushu84]

Hi all,

 

The same goes from my brother Auris, the inside pad was more worn to the metal then the outside one that is half, check the pad holder sliders are working (:) sliding), for him one is rusted and locked in position, we are currently looking for spare parts as it was impossible to take out 

[furtula]

Put the tool in place, and whacked on the tool. Moved maybe 1mm, and that's about it. Still seized.

49 minutes ago, TonyHSD said:

You will need a help from a friend. 
Ask a friend to pull handbrake lever up while you are watching the piston coming out, if no friend available you do it by yourself.
Make the piston moving outward first and then it will eventually go inward, turning clockwise to the right. You may need to rebuild or change the calliper as it seems the piston has got corrosion and it is solid., something to take into account. 

Won't it just pop out instead?  Or you mean to force it out, take it and clean it, then put it back together?

[TonyHSD]

25 minutes ago, furtula said:

Put the tool in place, and whacked on the tool. Moved maybe 1mm, and that's about it. Still seized.

Won't it just pop out instead?  Or you mean to force it out, take it and clean it, then put it back together?

You can use the handbrake method to push piston out and make it move again, then push it backwards with rewind tool to fit new pads. However if the piston is stuck then it will cause premature wear on the new discs and pads , so best way is to either rebuild it or replace it. 
If you able to make it move again without dismantling the calliper, push out about an 1cm or half an inch and with plastic tool you can lift up carefully the rubber boot, spray some silicone spray and then push back piston in, repetitions that few times and then mount everything on the car and check if piston returns freely, someone needs to press brake and release and you need to watch closely to see actual pads gets pressed and released by the piston. Then spin the wheel and should spin freely with usual slight drag pads on disc as they are new but no resistance. If you do that you can save yourself calliper replacement now but it’s not ideal solution. Very likely you have a lots of corrosion built inside on the tread of the piston and this is what stops it from returning back, or rewind in. 

[furtula]

The inside of the piston looks clean. I soaked it with silicone spray but not much changed.

I've ordered a replacement part instead, so hopefully will fit it Friday. Just hoping the screws won't be a bit stubborn.

Not really worth the hassle considering the price of a new part.

[TonyHSD]

46 minutes ago, furtula said:

The inside of the piston looks clean. I soaked it with silicone spray but not much changed.

I've ordered a replacement part instead, so hopefully will fit it Friday. Just hoping the screws won't be a bit stubborn.

Not really worth the hassle considering the price of a new part.

That’s the best. Some traders offer money back in exchange for your original calliper. , all you need to list to them or take it back to the store. 👍

[furtula]

Gotten around to flitting it.  After fitting the pads, i did take this picture for comparison, the new ones one the picture are for the right side, but you can see the difference. The old ones were so worn out that started rubbing on the disc outside and inside lip.

I've kept the old discs as they were not so used up.

Popped the new cylinder bleeder, put a hose on it and pumped a few times until there was fluid in the hose (hose was pointed upwards), so i think it was bled correctly.

But i still feel like i got more pedal travel than with the old pads. 

The discs are grooved a bit, nothing serious, but maybe it will change once enough material is removed so that they sit flush.

[roks]

Think the pads just needs bedding in, if after a a while its still spongy, you might need to bleed the lot.

[TonyHSD]

New pads best to pair with new discs. 
The old discs has polished surface and this will prevent proper bed in and it will take very long time eventually to bed in the new pads and to restore braking power. New discs usually has some sort of honing lines that helps bed In quickly. 

[Fostel]

I got this from Amazon and it sorts any brake you throw at it. 20 quid well spent.