Hello 👋

[BriansYaris]

Hi everyone I have a broken 2004 Yaris T Sport 😞 

[FROSTYBALLS]

Hello Brian - welcome to Toyota Owners Club.

[Bper]

Hi Brian, Welcome lots of good advice when you need it and always welcome when you give it. What's wrong with your Yaris T sport?

[Derek.w]

Hi Brian sorry to hear you broken your Yaris what is actually broken?.

[BriansYaris]

Hi thanks for the welcome 🤗 Basically I’m broke and it’s failed the MOT with a serious rust problem. I’ve been quoted £1000 all in to get it through the MOT. I was just looking to see what advice you guys might have for me. It’s got a great engine only 76000 but it’s tatty. I’ve never been in this situation before. I don’t need another car right now which is lucky i suppose. 

[Big_D]

Welcome Brian. Where is the rust?

[Mushu84]

Hi Brian 

 

I am in the same situation on my older 2007 1.0 Yaris the car barely has 70k miles but the rust is getting to the car unfortunately 

 

Look for a different garage quote maybe?

[BriansYaris]

18 hours ago, Bper said:

Hi Brian, Welcome lots of good advice when you need it and always welcome when you give it. What's wrong with your Yaris T sport?

Hi thanks for your response.

 It’s pretty bad I’m not a mechanic but here’s what the mot test fail has to say:

Repair immediately (major defects):

• Offside Front Position lamp not working (4.2.1 (a) (ii))
• Nearside Rear Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength (5.3.6 (a) (i))
• Offside Rear Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength (5.3.6 (a) (i))
• Nearside Rear Seat belt anchorage prescribed area strength or continuity significantly reduced (7.1.1 (a) (i))
• Offside Rear Seat belt anchorage prescribed area strength or continuity significantly reduced (7.1.1 (a) (i))
• Central Exhaust system insecure (6.1.2 (a))

Repair as soon as possible (minor defects):

• Nearside Front Outer Drive shaft joint constant velocity boot severely deteriorated (6.1.7 (g) (i))

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):

• Nearside Front Suspension component mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered excessive (5.3.6 (a) (i))
• Offside Front Suspension component mounting prescribed area is corroded but not considered excessive (5.3.6 (a) (i))
• Front Sub-frame corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i))

[Derek.w]

Hi Brian I see your dilemma £1000 this year then next year £xxxx.

[Bper]

Hi Brian, was you given any costs for the work to be done if not I would take it to a couple of garages to get quotes. Based on these quotes and the value of the car you will then be able to determine whether repairs are financially viable. You could of course have what is classed as the essential work done and leave the advisories till later which will lower the cost.

[BriansYaris]

Thank you guys. Great advice. This is a garage that I trust and they also did the MOT. The cost for the work including bay was £840. I can afford that but is it really worth it?

I don’t think I can drive it now as the MOT failed. 😞 I still have insurance till end of November though so taking it to another garage might not be an easy option.
I think the best thing for me might be to just scrap it or 
I’m thinking I could maybe offer it up for spares and repairs on eBay or something. I’d welcome thoughts on this approach too.

[Rhymes with Paris]

4 hours ago, BriansYaris said:

• Nearside Rear Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength (5.3.6 (a) (i))
• Offside Rear Suspension component mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength (5.3.6 (a) (i))
• Nearside Rear Seat belt anchorage prescribed area strength or continuity significantly reduced (7.1.1 (a) (i))
• Offside Rear Seat belt anchorage prescribed area strength or continuity significantly reduced (

Yep , these are the biggies.

Structural rust is the killer of these great little cars,engines and the rest seems to last forever.

My own 2003 Yaris Tsport has had varying degrees of surface rust on the underside, according to different MOT inspectors, improving supposedly in some years, and getting worse in others, subjective some might say.

Fortunately not structural .

Unless you can get a local old school mechanic/welder to cut out the rotted bits and weld steel plates in awkwardly shaped and difficult to access places,it sounds a bit uphill, sorry.

Also the disassembly and reassembly of all the parts to access this takes time, and money,if you can't DIY.

Even then I think that would be temporary,as once structural rot sets in,it usually can't be completely eradicated.

You say a £1000 estimate to get through this MOT, which I would guess is a minimum weld plate over rust job, and you say the car is tatty, so not really worth it IMO.

Such a shame if so, but it might be time to put the £1000 , plus the scrap value into another Yaris.

Yes good, rust minimal rust ones are rare around this money, but they are out there .

 

[BriansYaris]

Duplicate post

[Rhymes with Paris]

14 hours ago, BriansYaris said:

Thank you guys. Great advice. This is a garage that I trust and they also did the MOT. The cost for the work including bay was £840. I can afford that but is it really worth it?

I don’t think I can drive it now as the MOT failed. 😞 I still have insurance till end of November though so taking it to another garage might not be an easy option.
I think the best thing for me might be to just scrap it or 
I’m thinking I could maybe offer it up for spares and repairs on eBay or something. I’d welcome thoughts on this approach too.

I saw this post subsequent to making my previous one.

It does make a bit of difference,as even though I know £840 is not much less than £1000 ,if this includes all the other work needed then may be worth it to get another minimum year of use , maybe more, depends on the quality of rust removal prior to welding.

So thinking about it,say the £840 is looked at over a year of use, then around £16/week ,so might make sense.

And you would still have the scrap or spares/repairs value at the end of that,if that's what it came to.

Sorry if I'm giving you mixed messages here, it is all dependent on the overall condition of the car, aswell as the extent of corrosion.

As always though, it is never worth chucking good money at a bad car,ie unreliable as well as rusty.

If you have time to, have a good think about what's best for you.

 

[BriansYaris]

On 11/14/2023 at 8:23 PM, Rhymes with Paris said:

Yep , these are the biggies.

Structural rust is the killer of these great little cars,engines and the rest seems to last forever.

My own 2003 Yaris Tsport has had varying degrees of surface rust on the underside, according to different MOT inspectors, improving supposedly in some years, and getting worse in others, subjective some might say.

Fortunately not structural .

Unless you can get a local old school mechanic/welder to cut out the rotted bits and weld steel plates in awkwardly shaped and difficult to access places,it sounds a bit uphill, sorry.

Also the disassembly and reassembly of all the parts to access this takes time, and money,if you can't DIY.

Even then I think that would be temporary,as once structural rot sets in,it usually can't be completely eradicated.

You say a £1000 estimate to get through this MOT, which I would guess is a minimum weld plate over rust job, and you say the car is tatty, so not really worth it IMO.

Such a shame if so, but it might be time to put the £1000 , plus the scrap value into another Yaris.

Yes good, rust minimal rust ones are rare around this money, but they are out there .

 

 

On 11/15/2023 at 10:29 AM, Rhymes with Paris said:

I saw this post subsequent to making my previous one.

It does make a bit of difference,as even though I know £840 is not much less than £1000 ,if this includes all the other work needed then may be worth it to get another minimum year of use , maybe more, depends on the quality of rust removal prior to welding.

So thinking about it,say the £840 is looked at over a year of use, then around £16/week ,so might make sense.

And you would still have the scrap or spares/repairs value at the end of that,if that's what it came to.

Sorry if I'm giving you mixed messages here, it is all dependent on the overall condition of the car, aswell as the extent of corrosion.

As always though, it is never worth chucking good money at a bad car,ie unreliable as well as rusty.

If you have time to, have a good think about what's best for you.

 

Thank you for getting back to me. I misled you I think. The price he quoted was just for the welding. I haven’t heard back yet for how much the total is but I reckon about £1000. I’m beginning to think it might be worth it to get another year or 2 out of it. It’s only used to ferry my 90 year old mum around as it’s the only car that she can get in and out of easily as it’s so low and she loves getting out and about. Also, the thought of trying to find another half decent one within a sensible range is daunting.