Loss of power and starting issues (Verso 2010 2.0 d4d)

[Unaz]

It's that time of year again. Getting cold and starting becoming an issue again. Can takes really long crank and starts with plume of smoke. Smells like unburned fuel. One starts runs on but doesn't respond to accelerator padel very well. That's become a bit of problem now. Pulling out of junction is lot more difficult as it takes sweet time for revs to go up. Once revs are up, it does have power. I've looked at possible vacuum leaks. From looking around, I can't see any broken hoses. I unplugged MAF sensor whilst car was running and it made no difference to how it ran. Idled exactly same and responded to gas paddle same way as before. I unplugged map sensor and same result. Took dipstick out and no difference there either. If I take oil cap off, I can hear lot of vacuum but doesn't really affect the running of engine a lot. Just slight hint something has changed. I was looking through maf readings and it's showing at around 10-11 g/sec on idle. It's idling around 770 rpm on cold. Any idea what maf sensor readings should be at idle?

Mpg has always been poor on this car. Returns 28 ish local and 45 ish on long runs.

I have cleaned egr and inlet manifold. In the past year it's had 4 brand new denso fuel injectors, new fuel filter same time as injectors, scv valve, oil and oil filter service. Air filter wasn't done long ago and looks very clean still.

I am absolutely sick of this car. 

Anyone got any suggestions?

[HSJ]

I have the same problem. (2008 Corolla verso 2.2 D4-D.

Under 15 degree centigrade.  I warm up the glow plugs 3 to 5 times before the first start ( don't press the clutch).  But it is getting worse now.

I was wondering if there is a Battery power derating when it is cold, it does not warm up enough the glow plugs ?  Because there is a clear improvement when warming up the glow plugs a few times before starting.  Also I replaced it without any change.

 

[Cyker]

It might just be you need new glow plugs - They do fail eventually.

Some of the problems might just be the cold too - Diesels suck when they're cold as most of the energy goes into warming the big iron block instead of moving the car until the block is nice and hot.

My old Yaris D4D could be super sluggish in the winter until I got it hot enough, and that had an aluminium block!

My brother changed the glow plugs in his as they failed, but it can be a bit of PITA as they are quite fragile and some of them snapped off during removal, and the head had to be taken off to fish the broken bits out of the cylinders.

If you've never done it, I'd also recommend putting a tank or two of some Shell V-Power diesel or some Redex fuel system cleaner through the car - If the injectors are a bit gummed up, the winter cold will make them that much worse, as they will be spraying diesel in a jet instead of a mist, and it won't burn properly.

 

[Derek.w]

Glow plugs, or no voltage to glow plugs then fuel injectors check spray pattern or just replace.

[Unaz]

Sorry forgot to add. All 4 Glow plugs have been replaced and confirmed as working. If I leave it for extra few seconds before I crank it does help but still struggles. Lag in acceleration is becoming a big problem. I just wondered if anyone knew what maf should be at idle? Maybe maf isn't working as it should?

[Cyker]

Hmm, does it run better with the MAF unplugged? If so, the MAF could be the problem. If it runs the same or worse then the MAF is probably fine...

If you haven't, I still think running a few tanks of V-Power or redex through the car might be worth a shot...

[Unaz]

6 hours ago, Cyker said:

Hmm, does it run better with the MAF unplugged? If so, the MAF could be the problem. If it runs the same or worse then the MAF is probably fine...

If you haven't, I still think running a few tanks of V-Power or redex through the car might be worth a shot...

I've used redex stuff for few tanks which made no difference. I used premium diesel for over 6 months with no better results. 

Only thing left is to set on fire I think.

[Cyker]

Hmm, not sure then, the old 2.0 D4Ds are usually pretty solid, although I'm not sure if yours is the older 1CD engine with the timing belt, or the newer slightly less reliable 1AD with the chain.

Would need someone with more experience than me to advise further!!