12v battery maintenance, issues, etc.

[Roy124]

Dala, thanks but that comes under the TFD heading.  Very strange it's not coming up in the searches. 

[Cyker]

Calcium batteries need a higher charge voltage apparently I've seen 14.8v bandied about as a minimum; My Mk4 seemed to max out around 14.7v so I don't think it would support a calcium Battery.

From what others have seen, the Yarisusiesieusues just use a normal flooded/gel lead acid Battery...

 

[Derek.w]

11 hours ago, Roy124 said:

What smart charger has capacity LED?  I don't think CTEK does. 

Some Ctek have a bank of leds on the MXS 3.8 when the 3 led is on Battery capacity is 80%

& the 6 led is fully charged 100% capacity.

It also restarts automaticly if the power is disconnected then teconnected some smart charges dont.

[Dala]

50 minutes ago, Roy124 said:

.....PS, just done a search for a YC battery and several sites say No battery. 

according to this video it should be Yuasa :  https://youtu.be/ZR1nsxCzwy0

[Roy124]

22 minutes ago, Cyker said:

From what others have seen, the Yarisusiesieusues just use a normal flooded/gel lead acid battery...

Although others swear it must be AGM as its inside the car. 

[Dala]

For example, the 2020 Yaris Hybrid is this:

 

 

[Roy124]

Dala, having studied the YUASA info and decoded the info from the Battery photo you sent, I can say confidently that the second label is wrong, 😁. 

The 340 indicates a 12v Battery of 40AHr capacity yet it shows it is a 35AHr Battery. 

Then the other detail is CCA264A and the first Yaris one I'd CCA240A.  One specifies Calcium and the other doesn't. 

The YUASA site helps not a lot. 

I am inclined to decide CCA as Calcium Calcium Acid. 

Not easy  getting the gen. 

[Derek.w]

15 minutes ago, Dala said:

according to this video it should be Yuasa :  https://youtu.be/ZR1nsxCzwy0

I replaced my original Muilu 28800-K0020 Battery (35Ah 264A Battery with a Yuasa type YBX5202 its 45Ah 440amps

Please duble check the poles polarity as it wont fit the Mk3 Yaris.

Note its a double type lid and anti tip proof construction with a vent tube connection going to the outside of the car via a tube running down and under the floor so no need tobe GEL TYPE.

 

[Derek.w]

57 minutes ago, Dala said:

according to this video it should be Yuasa :  https://youtu.be/ZR1nsxCzwy0

The Yaris cross 2021 is fitted with the same spec Battery AS the 2020 Yaris MK4 but from a diffrent supplier interesting!.

[Cyker]

1 hour ago, Roy124 said:

Although others swear it must be AGM as its inside the car. 

Yeah I was guilty of that too - We were told internal batteries had to be AGM for safety reasons, and earlier models with internal batteries did indeed have AGM as standard, so the assumption was all hybrids with internal 12v batteries would, but everyone who's looked at their factory Mk4 Yaris Battery so far has found a bog standard wet-cell LN0-size Battery with not even a vent from what I've seen.

I'm still a bit confused about the whole Calcium thing and how it affects batteries as they have different needs to normal batteries and even AGM, but that does seem to be what they have!

CCA normally stands for Cold Cranking Amps but may just be the model prefix? Who knows in this case!  

[anchorman]

Somebody was worried about acid dripping on the family if the car rolled over.  That Yuasa Battery has a spill proof lid if that is a concern.  I’m personally not concerned about such things.  I’m not concerned about the possibility of my Ctek damaging my calcium Battery either.  I’d rather have a slightly effected charged Battery than a perfect flat one.  This subject gets blown way out of proportion. 

[Roy124]

OK, two simple questions:

What is that Battery type? 

What CTEK mode is the  best? 

[Dala]

According to this table, we can be calm 🙂

https://solarstik.com/stikopedia/battery-care-lead-acid/

[Derek.w]

23 hours ago, Roy124 said:

Dala, having studied the YUASA info and decoded the info from the battery photo you sent, I can say confidently that the second label is wrong, 😁. 

The 340 indicates a 12v battery of 40AHr capacity yet it shows it is a 35AHr battery. 

Then the other detail is CCA264A and the first Yaris one I'd CCA240A.  One specifies Calcium and the other doesn't. 

The YUASA site helps not a lot. 

I am inclined to decide CCA as Calcium Calcium Acid. 

Not easy  getting the gen. 

CCA stands for Cold Cranking Amps its an all types of batterys regardless of having no starter motor.

[Derek.w]

On 5/22/2023 at 9:53 AM, Roy124 said:

Can you expand on this?

What is smart charging the battery, the DC/DC convertor or a CTEK or similar? 

Are you saying smart charging kills calcium batteries? 

 

Both are smart chargers.

A charger that is micro processor controlled is a smart charger it can change the charging voltage as a example.

Non smart chargers ie standard chargers are just a step down transformer with a diode arangment or a bridge rectifier module containing four diodes plus a ameter or one or two leds for charging state.

[Derek.w]

On 5/23/2023 at 7:50 PM, Dala said:

According to this table, we can be calm 🙂

https://solarstik.com/stikopedia/battery-care-lead-acid/

Yes no problem if you in the green area!

[CruxisCore]

My Toyota dealer offers a 230v engine block heater that can also be split to charge the 12v Battery (and an indoor heater too if you want to spend more). I'm tempted cos it would largely remove this worry for me entirely and since we have cold winters, a warm engine probably helps the consumption and hybrid system too. Just the problem that we only have one of those car heating posts for our apartment (2 parking spots, but only one is within that 230v electricity post). The lady has a biogas operated Volvo V70 and does rather short drives, so it's a pretty massive difference in that big cars consumption on shorter trips, as the biogas doesnt kick in until engine is warm enough and will use petrol until that point.

But maybe I just steal her parking spot a few times a winter and put the Yaris Cross on a charger

[anchorman]

3 hours ago, CruxisCore said:

My Toyota dealer offers a 230v engine block heater that can also be split to charge the 12v battery (and an indoor heater too if you want to spend more). I'm tempted cos it would largely remove this worry for me entirely and since we have cold winters, a warm engine probably helps the consumption and hybrid system too. Just the problem that we only have one of those car heating posts for our apartment (2 parking spots, but only one is within that 230v electricity post). The lady has a biogas operated Volvo V70 and does rather short drives, so it's a pretty massive difference in that big cars consumption on shorter trips, as the biogas doesnt kick in until engine is warm enough and will use petrol until that point.

But maybe I just steal her parking spot a few times a winter and put the Yaris Cross on a charger

You'll have to decide about the block heater but your easiest solution is a jump pack.  It is always available wherever you park.

[Dala]

In the case of regular use of the jump pack - is it necessary to unnecessarily overload the car with a 12V car Battery? 
Unnecessarily carries approx. 12 kg more and increases consumption and thus the environment. 
The car Battery can stay at home in the garage. 😏

[Jasper.]

A modern jump starter is light..

[anchorman]

3 minutes ago, Dala said:

In the case of regular use of the jump pack - is it necessary to unnecessarily overload the car with a 12V car battery? 
Unnecessarily carries approx. 12 kg more and increases consumption and thus the environment. 
The car battery can stay at home in the garage. 😏

I suspect you don’t quite understand the system Dala.  You must have a 12V Battery or the car won’t work.

[Dala]

That was a comment with a humorous text.
For reflection.
Why carry such a heavy car Battery when I use something else to start it (jump pack).
It would then be enough to replace this heavy car Battery with another, with a smaller weight.
 

[Cyker]

I do wonder about that... if you took out the 12v Battery and 'jumpstarted' the car, the ECU closes the traction Battery contactors and the DC-DC system takes over the 12v system, will the car run..?

It wouldn't be great long-term as there's a whole load of stuff the car has to recalibrate when it looses 12v power and it won't run right until that's all done, but I do wonder if it would run...? (Not enough to actually try it myself mind  )

Mine seemed to cycle between using the DC-DC, and presumably when the 12v Battery was full, shut off and used just the 12v battery to power everything, so maybe not...

(Supposedly my Mk2 did that too - To reduce drag on the engine from the alternator, it wouldn't charge the battery unless it was low, or the car was coasting or braking. Never noticed tho'!)

[anchorman]

1 hour ago, Cyker said:

I do wonder about that... if you took out the 12v battery and 'jumpstarted' the car, the ECU closes the traction battery contactors and the DC-DC system takes over the 12v system, will the car run..?

It wouldn't be great long-term as there's a whole load of stuff the car has to recalibrate when it looses 12v power and it won't run right until that's all done, but I do wonder if it would run...? (Not enough to actually try it myself mind  )

Mine seemed to cycle between using the DC-DC, and presumably when the 12v battery was full, shut off and used just the 12v battery to power everything, so maybe not...

(Supposedly my Mk2 did that too - To reduce drag on the engine from the alternator, it wouldn't charge the battery unless it was low, or the car was coasting or braking. Never noticed tho'!)

You’re joking too right 🤷🏻‍♂️🤔😳

[Derek.w]

If you remove the 12 volt Battery I expect you generate a host of other problems like error codes plus run into the liklehood of burning out your dc/dc converter.

Dont expect Toyota will cover this and I dont advise you try it.