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Overheating


Allie87
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Hi. 

I have a 2010 AURIS 1.33  VVT-I TR that keeps overheating and only cold air blowing from the vents, i have replaced the thoermostat and fluid levels seem fine etc. any other ideas what it could be

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Water pump . 
When replacing thermostat, did you do procedure for air bleeding? Test of thermostat works and general check on the whole system, pump, hoses etc? 
If you have no heating you may have air locked in the system or water pump failure and these two can lead to blown head gasket. Better don’t drive before you fix it. 
 

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 If your coolant level is okay, but your car heater is blowing cold air and your engine is overheating, then you have a block in your cooling system. However, if your engine temperatures are unrealistically low after a drive, your thermostat is likely the culprit but you have checked this already.

I would flush the system. Hope this help:smile:

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33 minutes ago, TonyHSD said:

Water pump . 
When replacing thermostat, did you do procedure for air bleeding? Test of thermostat works and general check on the whole system, pump, hoses etc? 
If you have no heating you may have air locked in the system or water pump failure and these two can lead to blown head gasket. Better don’t drive before you fix it. 
 

Im quite a nube when it comes to this sort of thing, when you mean air bleeding i squashed the tubes to try an push air out, is that what you mean

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Tempature goes up pretty quickly but never drops, how do i flush the system? 

Thanks 

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Hi Paul, take a look at these two videos .

https://youtu.be/YQJYaJK3UK4?si=crNHHA6mtXr_M6Po

https://youtu.be/67A0CWnEWE0?si=OD11jW6xOhTx_l2N

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I had drained the system down to empty before replacing the thermostat so hopefully covered that scenario, is there a simpleway to know if the water pump has failed 

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Hi Paul, you could have an air lock, however have you checked or had any of these,Leaking or residue from the front of the engine, overheating, and whining or squealing noises from the engine these can indicate a bad water pump. 

Have a read through this it will help if you do have an air lock. :smile:

https://cararac.com/blog/air-lock-in-cooling-system-reasons-ways-to-fix.html

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Hi, 

no squishing the hoses but a simple and proper procedure that works on almost any car any engine. 
1. Prepare ready mix coolant, open reservoir and top up at max, leave cap open . 

2. Start the engine and let it idle 

3. Set interior heating at max temperature and lowest fan settings 

4. Let the engine running while you stay around, constantly check temperature gauge and coolant hoses, no need to squish them, just carefully check top and bottom of radiator.
After around 20-30 min the engine will be warmed up, you are looking at 95C° most Toyota cars thermostat will open and let second loop coolant circulate through the radiator, the radiator fans should kick in at this moment and spin at high speed. Very likely your coolant will be sacked from the reservoir so you need to be ready to top up. Thos is the correct procedure that needs to be done every time thermostat, water pump, radiator or any components from cooling system been replaced, including coolant. 
If you haven’t replaced the whole coolant, perhaps you can drain it again and refill,, but before you start the important bit is to start engine, set temperature at max hot , fan at low speeds wait 3-3 minutes and turn off the engine. 
It seems to me you have air lock. 
Water pump you can check for grinding noises, leak under it , or whining bad bearings noises while engine is running. 

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Thanks mate, i will give these steps a go on Sunday, will let you know how i get on, appreciate the guidance 👍🏻

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On 12/15/2023 at 1:13 PM, TonyHSD said:

Hi, 

no squishing the hoses but a simple and proper procedure that works on almost any car any engine. 
1. Prepare ready mix coolant, open reservoir and top up at max, leave cap open . 

2. Start the engine and let it idle 

3. Set interior heating at max temperature and lowest fan settings 

4. Let the engine running while you stay around, constantly check temperature gauge and coolant hoses, no need to squish them, just carefully check top and bottom of radiator.
After around 20-30 min the engine will be warmed up, you are looking at 95C° most Toyota cars thermostat will open and let second loop coolant circulate through the radiator, the radiator fans should kick in at this moment and spin at high speed. Very likely your coolant will be sacked from the reservoir so you need to be ready to top up. Thos is the correct procedure that needs to be done every time thermostat, water pump, radiator or any components from cooling system been replaced, including coolant. 
If you haven’t replaced the whole coolant, perhaps you can drain it again and refill,, but before you start the important bit is to start engine, set temperature at max hot , fan at low speeds wait 3-3 minutes and turn off the engine. 
It seems to me you have air lock. 
Water pump you can check for grinding noises, leak under it , or whining bad bearings noises while engine is running. 

Update, i have had a go at these steps today but problem still exists, ive also flushed through all the pipes separately to give them a good clean, i think next step maybe to try a new water pump as ive noticed today all the pipes are hot but the bottom left pipe coming from radiator is cold so im thinking the problem is water pump

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19 hours ago, Allie87 said:

Update, i have had a go at these steps today but problem still exists, ive also flushed through all the pipes separately to give them a good clean, i think next step maybe to try a new water pump as ive noticed today all the pipes are hot but the bottom left pipe coming from radiator is cold so im thinking the problem is water pump

Thermostat stuck closed will prevent second loop opening and circulate through radiator. Sometimes even brand new thermostats can be faulty. You can test both old and new with boiling them into vessel filled with hot water and see if they open when at 95C°

If you have no heating in the cabin then it might be an issue with heater core, this should have two hoses in and out at the firewall inside engine bay. Perhaps open both and try circulate some water with a hose to see if it’s running freely. 
And water pump if faulty not sure about it. 
If your problem happened after thermostat replacement I think it is more likely to be an issue caused by the new thermostat or something along installation. Try watch videos in YouTube about thermostat replacement, there is a specific way how to place thermostat in the housing, any other way may cause issues. Not sure if you paid attention when removing the original one. 
I haven’t worked on these engines so I can’t be of any further help. 
Good luck 

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6 hours ago, TonyHSD said:

Thermostat stuck closed will prevent second loop opening and circulate through radiator. Sometimes even brand new thermostats can be faulty. You can test both old and new with boiling them into vessel filled with hot water and see if they open when at 95C°

If you have no heating in the cabin then it might be an issue with heater core, this should have two hoses in and out at the firewall inside engine bay. Perhaps open both and try circulate some water with a hose to see if it’s running freely. 
And water pump if faulty not sure about it. 
If your problem happened after thermostat replacement I think it is more likely to be an issue caused by the new thermostat or something along installation. Try watch videos in YouTube about thermostat replacement, there is a specific way how to place thermostat in the housing, any other way may cause issues. Not sure if you paid attention when removing the original one. 
I haven’t worked on these engines so I can’t be of any further help. 
Good luck 

Thanks Tony didnt manage to get the water pump fitted today going to give it a go tomorrow, i watched a few videos before replacing the thermostat so was aware on which way to put it in made sure it went in the exact same way as it came out. Since flushing all the system i do seem to now have warm air in the cabin now thankfully but still have the overheating problem, water pump is my last option to try before i bite the bullet and put it to the experts 🙈

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update, water pump out and new one installed everything is now working perfect, waterpump wasnt making any unusual noise but as soon as i took the old one out i knew it was the problem, thanks everyone for your help and guidance 

IMG_20231219_123629.jpg

IMG_20231219_123626.jpg

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Thanks for posting back how you got on! :thumbsup:

Wow that impeller is rusty... you might want to check your coolant; It's supposed to have corrosion inhibitors specifically to prevent things from rusting like that! It's like someone filled it with tap water instead of coolant! :eek:

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Use the proper Toyota pink long life coolant, otherwise you could block up  or spring a corrosion leak hole in the heater matrix. Which is a dash out job.

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Long life pink coolant has been added, not sure why the rust has happened but all sorted now back on the road, been a really good solid car 13yrs old had it since new 85,000 miles, had a new timing chain and new clutch within the last 3yrs nothing else major has needed to be done so not too bad , just plodding along with it for now 

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Was that the original pump or been replaced previously? 
Sometimes and very often with Toyota cars if you install a non original part and some particular low quality brands these will be no surprise results. Through the years as driver and diy mechanic I learned my lesson, go oem or best possible aftermarket quality. 

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23 hours ago, TonyHSD said:

Was that the original pump or been replaced previously? 
Sometimes and very often with Toyota cars if you install a non original part and some particular low quality brands these will be no surprise results. Through the years as driver and diy mechanic I learned my lesson, go oem or best possible aftermarket quality. 

Its the same pump since new so just over 13yrs it was 

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If you watch "the car care nut" on youtube, he suggests replacing pink coolant every 6 years, rather than the 10/15 years quoted by toyota. He is an advanced  toyota master technician.

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