Remote Key Programming

[Sarah_]

Hi Guys & Gals,

Hoping someone can help…I am at my wits end!

I bought my 2004 Yaris T Sport last month with ONLY the spare key.

There was also an issue with the alarm going off when the doors, bonnet or boot was opened. It went off when the car was started or Battery was disconnected (it wasn’t a bonnet sensor or anything either).

I wanted a remote key so was quoted £140 for a new remote key, I went to get it done and due to the alarm being activated permanently he couldn’t programme a new remote key to it…so he referred me to an auto electrician…

£70 later I had the alarm issue fixed by an auto electrician removing the alarm module as they couldn’t wipe it off the ECU…happy days I guess no more alarm going off when opening the door to get in!

So I then bought a TOY43 remote key (same as other T sports apparently) on eBay with full internals including a chip for £20 and got it cut with Timpsons for £15. Now Im attempting to programme a new remote key to the car…I’ve followed the opening doors combination and I get to step 9 and It wont register (I’ve attached the photo of 2 different combos I’ve tried).

I’ve ordered another chip (I was told there is 4d67 and 4C chips) to replace the new one in my new key in case that’s the issue…

Am I missing something? Could it be the chip? Or linked to the missing alarm module? Or am I just super unlucky!?!

Fingers crossed someone is able to help 🤞

Thanks,

Sarah

[Cyker]

When you say it only came with a 'spare' key, is it a black one with remote lock/unlock buttons and a toyota logo embossed on it, or a grey one with no buttons?

 

[Sarah_]

@Cyker thanks for responding, my car only came with a non remote key (no buttons, I can unlock and lock the car manually and start it).

[Sarah_]

@Cyker thanks for responding, my car only came with a non remote key (no buttons, I can unlock and lock the car manually and start it).

[Cyker]

Ack, that is a problem; In order to program new keys into the immobilizer and remote central locking system, the car requires the use of a 'master' key, which are black and have the 2 remote buttons on them.

Is the non-remote key grey with a Toyota logon on it? If it is, you definitely can't use it to program keys as that's the 'valet' key and can only start the car.

If your key is a third-party/non-Toyota key, it has been cloned off a real key - If they cloned a master key, you still might be able to program in a new one using it, but if it's a clone of the grey key then it's still a no go.

 

 

I had a Mk1 Yaris (A diesel) and trying to make a new key can be a bit of a nightmare - There are 3 types of key depending on the car and they are all incompatible (Different key blades and different immobilizer modules); They are Valeo (Mostly french-made ones), Denso (French and japan made) and Tokai Rika (Pretty much exclusively japan-made).

Yours is most likely either a Denso or Tokai Rika system, as T-Sports were all made in Japan.

 

So, your inability to program a new key could be

a) The new key+module are the wrong ones,

b) The key you have isn't a master key, or

c) Problem with the instructions (Assuming those are correct for the car, it's still very difficult to do - The first time I tried with an eBay module and got the Remote locking instructions to work after 9 tries, but gave up with the immobilizer after like 20+ attempts and got an autolocksmith to bodge it by cloning my working key to an RFID chip that I blu-tacked inside the flip-key case I was using. With my 2nd Mk1, I bought a blank key from eBay and blank module from my Toyota dealer and, that time it only took me 5 goes to get the immobilizer coded and 7 goes for the doors!   )

 

@Flash22 might have some other options, as he reckons some cars can be programmed using the Toyota Techstream diagnostic software and a suitable cable.

It might also be worth speaking to a dealer to see if they can cut and code a key using your one - It may be more expensive but if they're willing to use your key and can do it, you'll be guaranteed a fully working key, unlike with 3rd party locksmiths. I wish I'd done that in the first place with my first Yaris, as in the end I'd spent more money and aggro trying to get my used from-eBay module to work than if I'd just gone to a Toyota dealer in the first place!

However, some dealers won't touch third-party keys (And, again, if it's the 'valet' key they also can't use it), and will try and take you down the 'official' solution route, which is to fit a whole new ECU and locks, which you'll probably not want to do as that'll likely cost near or more than what you paid for the car...!

 

Another thing you can try is writing to the previous owner to see if they have any master keys still, but that's a longshot; People occasionally have success but usually people just get just no response.

[MikeSh]

6 hours ago, Sarah_ said:

I bought my 2004 Yaris T Sport last month with ONLY the spare key.

Well - never, ever do that again. These days that's a nightmare as you are now finding. I still don't know how so many people manage to lose car keys ... A car is probably the second most expensive thing you'll ever buy, so taking care of the keys to that and your house seems like a no-brainer.

I had this problem with a US import, though I had a master key. I managed to find an auto electrician who could both cut and programme a new key, and remove other keys from the system, though that will depend on the make/model. Search around for someone and you might get lucky.

[Cyker]

Alas it's not something that is common knowledge - Most cars don't have this master/spare key malarky, but this is a very common problem with the Mk1 Yaris - I skipped over a few otherwise immaculate cars just because they didn't have any original keys, and I only knew how critical that was because of my experiences with the 1st one.

It's generally good advice to make sure a car comes with 2 keys, esp. from a dealer, but with used cars they rarely come with 2 keys and there's not much you can do about that, plus those sorts of cars tend to command a lower price, so they tend to get more attention for the bargain hunting buyer.

The problem with the keys is many people are likely to lose a key at least once, but people are too cheap to replace them because they cost so much. Because the Mk1 came with 3 keys (A far cry from now, where people have had to fight to get a 2nd key!), most people didn't bother thinking about replacement until they lost 2 keys and were on the last key, only to find out that key was a valet key and couldn't program the car. Faced with a £2000+ bill from Toyota for a full ECU and lock replacement, most of them just cloned that key at some random autolocksmith before losing the original valet key too,and ended up with some random 3rd party key when they finally sold it. It may even be successive owners lost a key each until they got to that situation; Either way, a real pain in the backside for the prospective buyer.

The normal petrol Yarisueseiees are quite plentiful so there's no point in buying one with no original keys, but the T-Sports and D4Ds are incredibly rare now, so there's less choice.

[Sarah_]

@Cyker thank you for that information…it makes sense…when I managed to check the confirmation setting it clicked 4 times saying my car had 4 total keys programmed. 
 

What do you think about my working spare? Does it look like a master? Clone? Or valet?

I feel like this is way out of my depth at the minute, I’m hoping swapping some internals might work (inc chip) but it might not work…which means I’ll have to face up to a new ECU etc 😩

[Cyker]

If the one on the left is your working spare, that looks like a master key to me (The valet keys were usually grey, not black); It should have buttons on the other side for the remote - Does it really not?? That one should be fine for programming and the dealer should be able to use it to make and code a new key for £150-170ish. No harm in asking them as they should be able to tell you if it'll work.

The one on the right is a fairly typical aftermarket key that can only start the car - I saw a lot of those when car hunting!  They usually have cloned transponders and are more of a mystery as it could have been cloned from a master key or a cloned key - I don't know of a way to tell alas!

 

 

[Rhymes with Paris]

Sorry, bit of a crap photo, but that is the full set of keys that were supplied with my 2003 Yaris Tsport .

The remote buttons visible, I hope.🙂

Also difficult to see on your photo the buttons on the Toyota key.

Cyker's suggestion of contacting the previous owner if possible, and appeal to them to find an original key, longshot as Cyker says, but worth a try, to save a whole lot of bother and expense.

Maybe no use to you now, but a friend bought a sing song something or other from a dealer with one key a year ago.

Dealer promised a second key to follow, of course that never materialised, and never will.

That would have been a deal breaker for me, two keys at least, then you get the money.

 

[Rhymes with Paris]

[Sarah_]

@Cyker sorry the left key is the new one I have bought and re cut with buttons (it’s face down)….the right one is the only key I was given by the seller which has no buttons.

[Sarah_]

@Rhymes with Paris thanks for helping, your keys make sense…

Unfortunately I didn’t save the sellers details and I can’t find him on eBay…plus I doubt he’d admit anything and just say “that’s how he found it”

Do you think the dealership would help?

 

 

[Sarah_]

Just to clarify:
 

New key with buttons I bought and had re cut.

Old key without buttons which came with the car and the only one I have which works.

[MikeSh]

7 minutes ago, Sarah_ said:

eBay

Urgh. I think you've been ... maybe not scammed for sure, but certainly had in some respects.

I'd certainly think it worth seeing a dealer to at least get some idea of what you are into here. If they quote a couple of hundred £ to get you to two good keys then I'd jump them before they change their mind. But if it's a lot more I'd check out other possibilities first.

[Cyker]

Ah okay then, so it might just be the key you bought isn't the right one for the car as it might actually need a Tokai-rika transponder module instead of a Denso one.

I think it would be a good idea to try a Dealer (or two if the first one tries it on!) - If your aftermarket key has a master code and they're willing to use it to code a new key, that will be the least hassle path, and even if they won't, they can supply the correct key and module for the car and it will be new and blank, which will make it easier to code with your instructions since it eliminates the possibility of it being incompatible.

Trying to DIY it and find the right parts 2nd hand really needs some experience with these systems - I learned the hard (and expensive) way that it's a pain in the donkey and not worth the hassle to save maybe £50 or so if you're real lucky and get everything right first time, but at worst cost a lot more time and money trying different modules! (And also funny looks from the neighbours as you keep stamping on the pedals and opening the doors  )

I just wish there was a way to tell if your aftermarket key has a master or valet code on it!!

 

1 hour ago, MikeSh said:

Urgh. I think you've been ... maybe not scammed for sure, but certainly had in some respects.

I'd certainly think it worth seeing a dealer to at least get some idea of what you are into here. If they quote a couple of hundred £ to get you to two good keys then I'd jump them before they change their mind. But if it's a lot more I'd check out other possibilities first.

TBH the seller probably didn't even know it was an issue; It's a very common isue with used Mk1's as I said - On one D4D I looked at, the used car dealer didn't even know the car had remote central locking because of the third party key  

It's never a good look when the customer knows more about the basics of the car than you do  

[Cyker]

Also, for reference, I dug out the procedures I used in my Mk1 D4D's:

Quote

 

Toyota Yaris 1999-2006 remote programming instructions (Opens and closes doors)

1. Open the driver’s door.
2. Insert the pre-programmed working key into the ignition lock then remove it. Don’t turn the ignition on.
3. Within 40 seconds: Close and open the driver’s door twice, then
4. Insert the new key into the ignition then remove it. Don’t turn the ignition on.

5. Within 40 seconds: Close and open the driver’s door twice, then
6. Close the driver’s door, then

7. Insert the new key into the ignition and turn the ignition on then off (Once to ADD or Twice to Erase All and Add), then
8. Remove the new key, then
9. The central locking should now lock then unlock (Once or Twice).
10. Press the lock and unlock on the remote at the same time for 1.5 seconds
11. Within 3 seconds, press the lock button on the remote for 1 second.
12. The central locking should lock and unlock once.
13. If the central locking locks then unlock twice then the sequence has not been successful. Try again.
14. Open the driver’s door to complete the sequence.

 

Quote

 

Toyota Yaris 1999-2006 immobiliser programming instructions (Starts car)

1. Enter the car and close all of the doors.
2. Simultaneously depress and release both the brake and accelerator pedals.
3. Within five seconds, insert a working pre-programmed key into the ignition cylinder, and turn to the "on" position.
4. Within fifteen seconds of turning the ignition, depress and release the accelerator pedal five times for a primary key
5. Within twenty seconds, depress and release the brake pedal six times for a primary key.
6. Turn the ignition to the "off" position and immediately remove the key.
7. Within ten seconds of removing the key, insert the new key and turn it to the "on" position.
8. Within ten seconds, depress and release the accelerator pedal once. The security light will then flash for 60 seconds and then turn off. When the security light stops flashing the programming should be complete.
9. Start the vehicle to verify that programming was successful.

 

 

[Sarah_]

@Cyker ah I see is the transponder the chip? Or the green bit? And do you know where to find the part numbers or chip numbers for “Tokai-rika“ and the other non French models to try programme?

I’m going to try that before going to an auto locksmith then dealer etc. I’m gutted to be honest as I’ve already spent £50 in keys and bits to try and do it myself 😅

Also thank you for the instructions, they are the same as what I attached initially and what I’ve been trying with no luck past Step 9.

@MikeSh Yeah I think the small independent dealer did just want the car off their hands, I should have known to check it had two keys though 😞 I will go to a dealer once I have explored all other options inc doing it myself and auto locksmith etc

So my plan A is to try the other 2 transponders/chips and see if I can programme a remote key of my aftermarket spare..I think this is still the cheapest option. I ideally want to try the other 2 types (non French ones once I get the part numbers).

Plan B auto lock smith to see if they can do anything if I can’t get the different transponder to work for possibly £70 - £90 …even if they can confirm if my original key is a clone it will help.

Plan C ECU kit including 2KEYS AT LEAST for around £140 😩

Can you confirm what an ECU kit consists of? I believe it’s 2 keys, ECU, 3 modules, 3 locking barrels (ignition, drivers door and boot?)

Do you also know if the central locking, alarm and control modules are attached to the ECU as part of an ECU kit?

Plan D pay a sickening amount at Toyota to fix (probably more than the value of the car 😂)

[Cyker]

In the proper Yaris keys, the block with the 2 buttons and coin cell Battery that lives inside the keys is the transponder as well as the door remote.

I strongly recommend you go to the dealer and see if they can make and code a key using your existing one first - If they can, you'll save all the money you will otherwise waste trying to get different used modules to work and auto-locksmith fees.

I know the temptation is to try and save money DIY, but you've already wasted £50 and will definitely waste more trying to get it to work - Trust me, I've been down that path, and I had a genuine master key - I could have bought 2 keys with change left from the dealer with what I spent in total. We don't even know what type of key your existing one is so it will almost certainly work out cheaper to just get the dealer to sort it out - They will know what is the correct key from your VIN, and if your thirdparty key does have a master code it will be easy for them to do it and cost maybe £150-ish vs the £150+ you can easily burn on key blades, transponder modules and programming before you then go back to the dealer anyway!

[Sarah_]

So an update…

Toyota got back to me regarding programming a remote key…the problem is all 3 dealerships told me I can’t programme a remote key without the master (which I don’t have).

They have kindly gave me the original complete OEM part numbers: 89070-47101 for the complete key and 89071-52021 for the key module assembly (inside) …this costs from £142 - £206 alone.

The problem is they can’t tell me which chip is used inside the key assembly so I can’t just order it to try with an auto locksmith.

Does anyone know the chip?

[Cyker]

The module is the important bit - That should contain the immobilizer and door remote bits. To my knowledge it's not like the older Toyotas that had a separate immobilizer chip lodged in the key - It's all in the module block. If they used your VIN/reg, the part number should be the right module for your car. If it doesn't work they will usually accept a return for a refund but double check in case the returns policy has changed.

When I did my 2nd D4D, I just bought the module and used the above procedure to code it to the ECU and doors using my existing key.

The module on its own with no coding or key cutting was something like £70 when I bought it tho'!

 

[MikeSh]

1 hour ago, Cyker said:

When I did my 2nd D4D, I just bought the module and used the above procedure to code it to the ECU and doors using my existing key.

But you presumably had a master key:-

7 hours ago, Sarah_ said:

the problem is all 3 dealerships told me I can’t programme a remote key without the master (which I don’t have).

I think she needs an auto electrician that (if it's possible on this car) can get into the system and add/remove keys directly. It's what the steal-to-resell thieves do, so it's often possible. (I found one to do this for a 2008 US Ford import that only had one key with it. He built and added two extra keys for me and removed the missing ones from the system.)

[Cyker]

This is the fundamental problem - We don't know if the key she has was cloned from a master key or a valet key.

There isn't anything special about the master vs valet key code - It all depends on how the code was filed in the ECU.

The way the all these keys work is they spit out an RFID code when pinged, and the ECU looks in its code table to see if it recognises the code and if it's logged as a master code or valet.

If her key is cloned from a master, the programming instructions should work with it (In theory!) as the car just listens for a code and can't tell if it's a 'real' key or not.