Ford 1 Toyota 0

[Primus1]

With the Battery warning messages I had on my previous ford puma it never once failed to start, this morning, however, I went to my cross and it wouldn’t do anything, weird messages telling me I have to hold the key near the power button, but nothing, so I suspect it’s the aux Battery as I haven’t used the car for two days, it was last used for a very short journey on Sunday, it’s used everyday for work with a round trip of 18 miles, I do have a c-tek smart Battery charger which I did use on the ford as I attached the plug in lead direct to the battery so it was just a simple job of lifting the bonnet and plugging in, it’s a little more involved with the cross I believe as it’s under the rear seat and I’m not sure if the lead will reach or even if the charger is suitable, anyhow, atm I’m awaiting Toyota assist….

[anchorman]

You can do it in the fuse box under the bonnet Alan.  My knee ***** reaction is to sack the Battery and put a Yuasa on but the more of these things Toyota get back, the more chance there is of them stopping using these hopeless Mutlu batteries.  

[yossarian247]

2 hours ago, anchorman said:

You can do it in the fuse box under the bonnet Alan.  My knee ***** reaction is to sack the battery and put a Yuasa on but the more of these things Toyota get back, the more chance there is of them stopping using these hopeless Mutlu batteries.  

I ditched the original batteries and fitted a Yuasa on our C-HR and and Varta Silver on the Corolla and had no further problems with either. The Corolla did actually come with an OEM Varta Battery, but it was a smaller Ah rating and the car had been sat in a dealers compound with a flat Battery for a few weeks before we bought it, so the original was knackered. 

[Roy124]

Alan,  the CTEK is suitable.   My CTEK came with 3 leads, a lead on the charger and two leads to connect to the Battery.

Where the Battery is accessible you can use the lead with clips to connect to the Battery and then connect the charger lead to this.

Where the battery is not accessible you may connect to the positive blade in the fuse box under the bonnet.

Alternatively use the CTEK battery lead with the ring connectors and hard wire it to the battery.  Your garage should be able to do this if you can't. 

[Primus1]

8 hours ago, anchorman said:

You can do it in the fuse box under the bonnet Alan.  My knee ***** reaction is to sack the battery and put a Yuasa on but the more of these things Toyota get back, the more chance there is of them stopping using these hopeless Mutlu batteries.  

Yes, the AA guy jump started it from there, he said he’d had a couple of Yaris cross with flat batteries in the last couple of days, he said I’d be fine to connect my charger to those points with a couple of crocodile clips, I always had a message with the ford saying system off to save Battery, I knew when it needed charging as it would shut some systems down, the first being the passenger door keyless unlock…

[Primus1]

1 hour ago, Roy124 said:

Alan,  the CTEK is suitable.   My CTEK came with 3 leads, a lead on the charger and two leads to connect to the battery.

Where the battery is accessible you can use the lead with clips to connect to the battery and then connect the charger lead to this.

Where the battery is not accessible you may connect to the positive blade in the fuse box under the bonnet.

Alternatively use the CTEK battery lead with the ring connectors and hard wire it to the battery.  Your garage should be able to do this if you can't. 

Yes, I connected to the Battery this way on the ford, I have just checked and the CTEK did come with clips and a plug so will be able to connect under the bonnet 

[Cyker]

It is a bit unusual how sharply the 12v Battery fails - As you say, in most cars other stuff starts to get iffy or it at least gets a bit sluggish to start, which gives you some sort of hint the 12v needs changing.

With so many people here, it seems one day it's fine then the next day it's as the proverbial dodo.

Mine has been trouble-free 3 years running so far, but I'm keeping a jump-starter in the car and plan to swap the Battery for the Yuasa HSB202 when it eventually does pop its clogs.

I must admit I don't know what the life of a 12v Battery normally is in a petrol/hybrid car; My previous cars were all diesels, which tend to have more uprated batteries than petrols, and I never had to change them in the entire time I owned any of them!

 

[Primus1]

After the AA got me going this morning I took it on a longish drive, ( I’d already lost a couple of hours pay so hey ho) ran it on the dual carriageway up to tadcaster (6 miles) then took the long route to work, about 40 min in all, started the car using the app just to check, and it started ok tonight…..do I need to put it on charge overnight..or will it have put back enough for tomorrow?

[jthspace]

Belt and Braces tonight maybe? Just for peace of mind, might be worth putting the charger on.  Put the headlights on when driving as I've read on here that the Battery will get a bigger charge to cover the use of the lights which may help if you've got a shortage journey to do.

I changed the Battery to a Yuasa 45 amphr and I've not had an issue, even after a week of non-use and cold weather

[anchorman]

2 hours ago, Primus1 said:

After the AA got me going this morning I took it on a longish drive, ( I’d already lost a couple of hours pay so hey ho) ran it on the dual carriageway up to tadcaster (6 miles) then took the long route to work, about 40 min in all, started the car using the app just to check, and it started ok tonight…..do I need to put it on charge overnight..or will it have put back enough for tomorrow?

It’s not how far you drive Alan, it’s how long the traction Battery is connected to the 12v Battery.  You can leave it on your drive with the engine off but it must be in the ready mode.

[Hicardo]

2 hours ago, Cyker said:

It is a bit unusual how sharply the 12v battery fails - As you say, in most cars other stuff starts to get iffy or it at least gets a bit sluggish to start, which gives you some sort of hint the 12v needs changing.

With so many people here, it seems one day it's fine then the next day it's as the proverbial dodo.

Mine has been trouble-free 3 years running so far, but I'm keeping a jump-starter in the car and plan to swap the battery for the Yuasa HSB202 when it eventually does pop its clogs.

I must admit I don't know what the life of a 12v battery normally is in a petrol/hybrid car; My previous cars were all diesels, which tend to have more uprated batteries than petrols, and I never had to change them in the entire time I owned any of them!

 

Hi there, do you need to buy a specific size (dimension) of Yuasa HSB202? Is it a straightforward process to disconnect, remove, reinstall a new Yuasa Battery?  If its fairly cheap and saves headaches, seems like a no brainer to just go ahead and do it.  Oh, and is there any warranty contention do you think? 

Cheers!

[Cyker]

40mins should be enough to get a decent amount of charge in; Toyota were recommending 30 mins twice a week or 60 minutes a week during lockdown IIRC.

 

The HSB202 is a single size - Specifically 175x175x190mm

It's a little tricky to replace as the Battery is under the rear seat and accessible via a handy panel, which would be fine, but the rear doors don't open anywhere near enough so it's a bit awkward to get in and unscrew the terminals, haul the old one out, manhandle the new one in etc., but fairly easily doable by a normal healthy person who doesn't have e.g. back problems  

 

[Hicardo]

Thanks!  No back problems...yet 😂

As soon as you disconnect the old Battery, you'll lose data and settings I suppose? 

[CPN]

15 minutes ago, Hicardo said:

Thanks!  No back problems...yet 😂

As soon as you disconnect the old battery, you'll lose data and settings I suppose? 

Not necessarily... Most settings are stored in EAROM (Electrically Alterable Read Only Memory) so don't get destroyed with a loss of power anyway...

[jthspace]

2 minutes ago, Hicardo said:

Thanks!  No back problems...yet 😂

As soon as you disconnect the old battery, you'll lose data and settings I suppose? 

From memory just trip detail, I think it saved all the radio Presets.

I pushed the pax seat all the way forward, lifted rear seat and wedged it up with a broom handle to enable access easier.

Just a warning... undo negative (black) terminal first - always the case in any Battery disconnect.  It's a warning because when you undo the positive (red) terminal your spanner will be touching the metal surround support and that would be "unfortunate" if you hadn't removed the negative first. The ground wire is stiff, so have something (tape or string) to keep it out of the way.

There will be a plastic pipe connected to the Battery (vent pipe) that has to be pulled free from the Battery as you remove it, and reconnected to the new one when you fiddle it in.  You may also want to fix a CTEK or similar charge lead at this time.

I'm not speaking from experience, but I have seen a spanner welded to the chassis that bridged the positive terminal to ground and then caused a rather expensive melt-down.

[Derek.w]

After disconnecting Battery you loose radio settings phone settings thats shortcut settings not contact list.

Give the system time to go into sleep mode before disconnecting the Battery -ve first reconnect last.

 

[MikeSh]

1 hour ago, Hicardo said:

Hi there, do you need to buy a specific size (dimension) of Yuasa HSB202?

Although the OEM batteries should be the same, I will always measure the Battery (plastic or wood ruler) dimensions (a few mm either way is no problem), eyeball the hold-down arrangement and note the position of the +&- poles and terminal type. Use that info to do a sanity check before clicking Buy.

 

22 minutes ago, jthspace said:

have something (tape or string) to keep it out of the way.

Velcro straps (eg. multi-size pack from ebay) are really useful for this (and many other odd jobs).

[Guest]

12 hours ago, yossarian247 said:

Varta Silver on the Corolla and had no further problems with either. The Corolla did actually come with an OEM Varta battery

+1 for Varta. Looking at some older but not too old Toyota’s in my family, they all have Varta. 

5 hours ago, Cyker said:

My previous cars were all diesels, which tend to have more uprated batteries than petrols, and I never had to change them in the entire time I owned any of them

Mine gave up in January. Car being 4.5 years old.  But it did run totally flat about 3 times in mid 2022 due to the Dashcam being fused in wrong (that ones on me). Then last January it was just refusing to start when the snow came. 
 

£250 later, biggest option I could find: (I see ECP selling the same one for £270 now). Didn’t want to take any chances with all the extra electric stuff I’ve added to the car. 

[G L J]

I have recently had to have a new Battery fitted for the same reasons. It was a Varta blue diamond with 44ah capacity.

I would suggest that you  carry a 12v stater power pack as well as it  helped  me out when my car had been left for more than three days on many occasions. The link is to the one I purchased .

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hilka-Tools-83850400-Starter-Power/dp/B076615FJZ

[Roy124]

My YC Battery drain has declined to around 0.03v per day.  That may reduce a little more if we don't touch the car.  

[Roy124]

11 hours ago, jthspace said:

 

 

[jthspace]

No I didn't! 🤣😂

[Trewithy]

On 12/27/2023 at 8:36 AM, Primus1 said:

 weird messages telling me I have to hold the key near the power button, but nothing, 

Having to hold the key close to the power button is a symptom of a weak key fob Battery.  It would be wise to spend a just a couple of pounds on a new CR2032 Battery as a first step.

[anchorman]

12 minutes ago, jthspace said:

No I didn't! 🤣😂

Sounds like panto time again…….

[jcps001]

I can also recommend a Varta Silver Dynamic. It's been on my 2007 Auris since 2017 and it still makes the car start everytime.