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Posted

I have the idea to add a front camera to my IQ with TNS 510. 
As i have already a original rear camera i try to find out what is the best way..

The front camera have to work with a switch.. simple switch it on for front camera.

Think have to switch 2 things at same time:

1.
+12v signal on TNS510 (to switch to camera input) : Original from selecting reverse OR from other +12v supply.

2.
Switch from Original rear camera input to front camera input.

In that case i need to use a original camera on front because of the 6v power supply.
But if i want to use a aftermarket 12v camera for the front.. any idea now to switch and connect?

  • Like 1

Posted

The Factory camera is 6-7v

you will need to trigger the reverse input to display the camera, but not back feed the reverse lights what can be achieved by using a few diodes (1n4001 diodes will do the job

  • Like 1
Posted

Was thinking to run the "Pin 5" connection over relay or rocker switch so i can select manual 12v feed or the original way. Same manual 12v feed i can use to power the 12v front camera.

What do you think about the video signal? Just switch V+ and V- over will do the job?

Posted
18 hours ago, Dutchrav said:

I have the idea to add a front camera to my IQ with TNS 510.
 

Can't you just look out of the front windscreen? Works for me.

  • Haha 3
Posted

Gave your idea a try for 15 minutes.. did´nt work. It did not add a camera. 🤣

  • Haha 4

Posted
2 hours ago, Dutchrav said:

Gave your idea a try for 15 minutes.. did´nt work. It did not add a camera. 🤣

V. good lol

Okay - I'll put it another way...

Why do you need a front-facing camera? I can understand having dashcams front & rear to record stuff (I've got them myself), but as I understand it you want to install a front-facing camera for parking purposes? Or have I got you wrong?

Is it that you're even more of a gadget freak than me?

Posted
2 hours ago, glimp said:

Can't you just look out of the front windscreen? Works for me.

For the love of God why do so many people feel the need to jump in a thread to share their "Wisdom"?

I bet he knows that he has a front windshield and probably one or even two eyes but he might have the urge to do it just for the sake of it...

To OP, I'm following the thread. If you manage to do something please share, I'm very interested in this mod. I even have a rear cam ready and cables, but didn't know it was 6 volts or is that car specific?

Mine is a Yaris hybrid (with no front windshield, so I can't see outside 😂

Posted
13 minutes ago, jimaros said:

For the love of God why do so many people feel the need to jump in a thread to share their "Wisdom"?

I bet he knows that he has a front windshield and probably one or even two eyes but he might have the urge to do it just for the sake of it...

To OP, I'm following the thread. If you manage to do something please share, I'm very interested in this mod. I even have a rear cam ready and cables, but didn't know it was 6 volts or is that car specific?

Mine is a Yaris hybrid (with no front windshield, so I can't see outside 😂

I see your sense of humour bypass has worked. Congratulations.

Posted

no need for a relay that overcomplicates matters a DPDT (double pole, double throw) on-on switch and 2 diodes, 1 side of the switch for power and the other for video +

if you want to get really smart you can use an OEM switch have that on the dash or by the handbrake and make a small PCB to do the switching (a few transistors)

you could also get a cheap Chinese switcher for £30-40 (half that direct from China)

  • Like 1
Posted

So is this for a front parking camera or a Dashcam...? :confused1:

 

Posted

My use would be for parking.

Avoid hitting towing arm of other cars or not going on the sidewalk with my front bumper.

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, flash22 said:

no need for a relay that overcomplicates matters a DPDT (double pole, double throw) on-on switch and 2 diodes, 1 side of the switch for power and the other for video +

 

Ok, so i can connect both V- together to same input and need only to switch the V+?

I will use a 12v camera for the front, I will use a single pole switch (so it fits like OEM in my center console) and do need to use a relay for the multiple switching. This 5 bucks switch will do it.

 

camswitch.thumb.png.55164cc53f52e2aca969f715704c741c.png

The switch will power the relay so all connections will be made behind the satnav :
Switch the PIN5 connection to MANUAL
Switch the V connections to FRONT
Switch the +12v power to the front camera.

 

For those who still asking why... its for parking and because its easy possible. And i like modding my IQ.

 

  • Like 3
Posted
Quote

Ok, so i can connect both V- together to same input and need only to switch the V+? yes

if you go with relays use 2, 1 for power and 1 for video tbh i would use PNP/NPN transistors

 

Is that switch latching on/off or momentary?

the 4 wires on that switch will be pos, neg, Illumination, and switch out

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Dutchrav said:

Ok, so i can connect both V- together to same input and need only to switch the V+?

I will use a 12v camera for the front, I will use a single pole switch (so it fits like OEM in my center console) and do need to use a relay for the multiple switching. This 5 bucks switch will do it.

 

camswitch.thumb.png.55164cc53f52e2aca969f715704c741c.png

The switch will power the relay so all connections will be made behind the satnav :
Switch the PIN5 connection to MANUAL
Switch the V connections to FRONT
Switch the +12v power to the front camera.

 

For those who still asking why... its for parking and because its easy possible. And i like modding my IQ.

 

I was thinking about this DIY for a while, and I was gathering info but there is so little that I gave up and forgot. 

I needed to check behind my infotainment system. Got up to the part to pull out the bezel, but after that I didn't see any fasteners or something to pull out the 8" screen on my 2022 Yaris.

Wanted to check which is the input signal cables (now with you post the voltage ) and then fabricate an almost factory spec pcb with diodes and relays so as to have a single button on the center console to operate the front camera.

Function of the PCB would be to trick the car as to think I've engaged Reverse when I press the button, and display the front camera signal, but the build of it would be to isolate the front camera signal when Reverse is selected in an actual parking between cars scenario so you won't have to press the button manually and not get confused in any chance between front and rear and collide with someone .

Sorry for my English. Too many thoughts too little English.

P.S. if flash or Cyke or anyone else knows of a video or instructions for removing infotainment of a Yaris mk4 I'd be more than happy to receive.

 

Edited by jimaros
  • Like 2

Posted

Switch is latching. And it fits the orange illumination.
Dont know how with transistors and making PCB..  so thats why i think in switch and relay. 

 

 

Posted

Mk4 yaris is more complex as it gets its reverse trigger via Can Bus not a 12v signal

the newer gen 3 touch 2 systems are vastly different

 

Posted
25 minutes ago, flash22 said:

Mk4 yaris is more complex as it gets its reverse trigger via Can Bus not a 12v signal

the newer gen 3 touch 2 systems are vastly different

 

I probably have to study all those links 

Posted

You could import one from Japan - Their Yaris Mk4's had 360 degree cameras and self-parking as an option!! :crybaby:  :laugh: 

(Can't blame Toyota UK for that omission this time - I don't think the TMMF factory for the Euro-spec Yaris even has the possibility of having that system! :sad: )

  • Like 1
Posted

it can be fitted, it works via the GVIF the touch 2 has all the required inputs and outputs that go to the processor/multiplexer module

Posted
6 hours ago, flash22 said:

it can be fitted, it works via the GVIF the touch 2 has all the required inputs and outputs that go to the processor/multiplexer module

 

20 hours ago, Cyker said:

You could import one from Japan - Their Yaris Mk4's had 360 degree cameras and self-parking as an option!! :crybaby:  :laugh: 

(Can't blame Toyota UK for that omission this time - I don't think the TMMF factory for the Euro-spec Yaris even has the possibility of having that system! :sad: )

Are you both talking about the same thing? About importing a Japan top grade infotainment?

Along with 4 cameras, mirrors cables and what not just to have a front camera signal to pop up to the screen to not hit the curb? Lol

Posted

Anything is possible if you put your mind to it

Posted

I was making a joke about importing the whole car; Retro-fitting it would be very difficult - I'm not even sure of the Euro-Mk4s have the software for the 360 degree system since it's not even an option here!

 

Posted

Making progress.. changed idea a bit and first items ordered!

 

camswitch2.thumb.jpg.d00f14fe1d09b4e32d37ef3e8436ea5c.jpg

2-way switch with neutral middle position so making ´anytime cam´of both cameras.
In middle position nothing is powered so the rear camera keeps working like it is now. 

 

 

cam1.thumb.jpg.5b813952fcd93c418893f2cffbd57d86.jpg

Small camera that have  option for frontcam and delete parking lines. Bit of a guess how it fits behind the top grille but it comes with AV cable that have a extra red wire for the +12v power build in.

 

camrelay.thumb.jpg.42b6a2fc67b1e981cfcc2773b7241cbd.jpg

Finder relay 14VDC for switching the video. Rear cam comes on the NC contacts. front cam on NO. Switching both V- and V+ wires to the satnav. Coil is switched by the +12v wire from rocker switch (front cam).

Also a pack 1N4001 diodes. Every wire connected to the Pin5 connection of the satav gets one. Saves me a relay and a bit of wiring. Thinking to give the relay also a diode as coil suppression.. but dont know yet if it really needs it.


 

 

 

 

 

Posted

you will need a 12v switch live as pin 5 is only supplies 12v in reverse TO the radio, the diodes are to stop any voltage being back fed or any spikes

Posted

The 12v comes from the switch (1x front and 1x rear) and the 3rd one is the original wire. All 3 get a diode.
The main live wire will be tapped from the ACC/Ignition.

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