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Best fuel percentage to fuel up


Jmar
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5 hours ago, ISL said:

@Mojo1010 I wonder why the warning light is set to come on earlier with rear wiper 😂

with rear wiper 36l

without rear wiper 32l

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I use a local Shell station regularly but know 3 others that are invariably less expensive,  one up to 5p ltr less.

If I have a journey planned that will pass one of these 5 I will fuel to minimum to take advantage.   That said, the max saving on a full tank saves less than one litre. 

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28 minutes ago, Dala said:

with rear wiper 36l

without rear wiper 32l

Interesting 🤔

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I wonder if the one without a rear wiper is the bizarre saloon Yaris that isn't really a Yaris that I've only seen available for a few mid-asian countries?

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3 hours ago, ISL said:

Interesting 🤔

I was looking at the manual.
I am correcting:
without rear wiper 33 liters

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10 hours ago, Mojo1010 said:

It's not unhealthy, I do this at least once to all the cars I have owned to understand approx range left. 

Last summer drove 30 miles below 0 range, fill up to first click at 32.85L, about just over 2 litres left. So I understood if in winter, should not go more than approx 20 miles below. The handbook has info on amount of fuel left when the fuel light comes on. Attached for Yaris hatchback MK4. 

To add, when fuel light comes on my car can approx do 70 miles in summer with 5.4L, winter say 40 miles to be conservative. Already have a minus 30 miles marker in summer. 

IMG_20240126_101633.thumb.jpg.2b20fd17ee120ac99064bdb737f26b66.jpg

So do I.  Once you’ve established when the light will come on, you can then run with confidence without running out (and without some nice person lecturing you about the terminal consequences of running out).

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11 hours ago, Paul john said:

You did. Your first line ‘“never let the tank run empty” might have had some credence in the 1960’s’ you seem to be implying that was no longer a risk as the tanks are constructed differently. 

There’s less risk of picking crap up, not running out. I’ve never run out because I know how to interpret the indications on the dash board.  

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I usually wait until it gets to 20-50 mile range, as I'm never really out in the middle of nowhere. I like to do it before the light comes on. Just personal preference.

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After fifty years of messing with cars I have never heard of anyone suffering from picking up crap from a low fuel level.

I have heard the rumour that it happens for about the same length of time.

Just my observations, not a vote one way or the other. 🙂

 

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2 hours ago, Jules88 said:

Just personal preference.

And that is really the answer to the original question.

Whatever floats your boat/ship/canoe/raft/paddleboard/lilo/catamaran/dinghy/ ... there is no 'best'.

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4 hours ago, MikeSh said:

 

Whatever floats your boat/ship/canoe/raft/paddleboard/lilo/catamaran/dinghy/ ... there is no 'best'.

Not there there isn't, yacht. 🙂

 

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9 hours ago, Mjolinor said:

After fifty years of messing with cars I have never heard of anyone suffering from picking up crap from a low fuel level.

I have heard the rumour that it happens for about the same length of time.

Just my observations, not a vote one way or the other. 🙂

 

I have a long time ago when tanks corroded from the inside and petrol stations stored it in similarly corodable (is that a word?) tanks where rainwater got in but not for years.  The tank pickup pipe sucks from the bottom and hoovers up anything on an ongoing basis.  There’s so little in it, I’ve never changed a petrol fuel filter, ever and I’ve worked on a lot of cars.  

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I found out some petrol cars do actually have proper in-line fuel filters (Not the teabag strainer that is on the fuel sender pickup tube :laugh: ), but it's much rarer than it is on diesel cars for some reason.

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1 hour ago, Cyker said:

I found out some petrol cars do actually have proper in-line fuel filters (Not the teabag strainer that is on the fuel sender pickup tube :laugh: ), but it's much rarer than it is on diesel cars for some reason.

Yes, true.  I have changed those under bonnet inline filters in the past - mainly on carburettor systems but I’ve never done an in tank strainer.  

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Well I can tell you it goes down to at least 11 miles! I filled up my new Yaris Cross and a week or so later was happily cruising towards the Dartford crossing when a low fuel warning light came on. I had not realised that as the petrol gauge "runs in" to the temperature gauge below and that the tiny fuel gauge was just the dial above. Also I hadn't realised that the tank is much smaller than my Captur hybrid was (12l less) and coupled with the worse mpg (see a different thread) it looks like I am going to be spending more my time in the cold filling my car up than I had anticipated. 😒

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Got approx 470 miles from a tank in the summer on the hatchback, though that is 30 miles below range before fill up. The YC can probably get 400+ on a full tank, so the 36L tank is more than enough.

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1 hour ago, dcweather said:

Well I can tell you it goes down to at least 11 miles! I filled up my new Yaris Cross and a week or so later was happily cruising towards the Dartford crossing when a low fuel warning light came on. I had not realised that as the petrol gauge "runs in" to the temperature gauge below and that the tiny fuel gauge was just the dial above. Also I hadn't realised that the tank is much smaller than my Captur hybrid was (12l less) and coupled with the worse mpg (see a different thread) it looks like I am going to be spending more my time in the cold filling my car up than I had anticipated. 😒

Perhaps, but you'll be putting in half the fuel, and half the cost! :biggrin: 

If you car is new it may just be it's still loosening up, but some things to check are your tyre pressures and driving style. Tyre pressures especially have a bigger effect on mpg than even on my diesel, and it can be worth going a little bit over spec if you want to reach the higher mpgs.

The hybrids are like mega coasting machines; If you can get your speed right so you never have to brake, and use the electrics to extend a coast, that can greatly improve mpg over a run.

Also, like all heat engines, the car can be dreadfully inefficient initially while the engine is stone cold, but the efficiency shoots up as it hits full operating temperature.

I also find the car can respond better to brisker accelerations, but the trick is to not over-accelerate and then have to brake again - Like I'll jump up to 20mph in a 30mph zone but not go further because I can see the traffic ahead, and I can coast down from 20 into the back of that traffic without having to brake, and pick it up again with more gentle acceleration to keep with the flow.

 

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On 1/25/2024 at 4:42 PM, FROSTYBALLS said:

Topic moved to the Yaris forum.

Personal choice really. Some, including myself, feel their cars run better on E5. Some see no difference and use E10.

Whether or not what fuel one uses gives better economy is open to question and, perhaps, down to personal experience.

And we in Ireland don’t have a choice it’s E10 or “Shanks Mare”.😡

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Well they gotta use all that excess potato moonshine for something! :laugh: 

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3 hours ago, Cyker said:

Well they gotta use all that excess potato moonshine for something! :laugh: 

Naw, it’s far too precious to put into a car😂

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8 hours ago, Cyker said:

I also find the car can respond better to brisker accelerations, but the trick is to not over-accelerate and then have to brake again

That is very true, when I got mine I really tried to accelerate inside ECO zone, using electric engine as long as possible, but this actually results in worse fuel consumption because the Battery depletes fast and when you reach that cruise speed, the ICE kicks in just to recharge the HV. 

Optimal acceleration (from my experience) is anything between ECO and PWR so the ICE is providing power when we need it and then when we gained required speed, we lower the power output to the ECO zone where the EV takes over until we stop at the red light or we run out of Battery again. 

Anyway I have a feeling that overthinking it gives worse performance than just adjusting acceleration to what happens on the road and letting the hybrid do it's magic. 

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2 hours ago, hind said:

Anyway I have a feeling that overthinking it gives worse performance than just adjusting acceleration to what happens on the road and letting the hybrid do it's magic. 

Trying to out-think Toyota's engineers is always gonna be tough. They've designed it to work the best under 'normal' use, so if you can find a corner of the operating envelope where you get get 'better' (whatever you think that is) you're doing well.

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