Power Folding Mirror Upgrade

[solero]

This thread will be a running blog on my upgrade path for power folding wing mirrors. I will update progress as and when time permits. Feel free to comment, make suggestions, and ask questions along the way.

Background info:

The folding mirror feature on the mk2 auris only came on the Excel model. This feature was not available on Active, Icon, Business Edition or Design models.

Unfortunately, its not a simple job of swapping the  wing mirrors and switch to upgrade to power folding mirrors.

From my initial investigation and comparison of the schematics, thr wiring loom and connectors in my car, the loom does not carry the extra wires. Also the control switch connector is physically different.

Design Considerations:

It is possible to upgrade your existing manual wing mirrors with motorised actuators . I bought a pair of actuators from aliexpress for £25. There are videos on youtube showing this being done for a similar corolla wing mirror. I will try and document details when i get to that stage. Alternatively, you could source folding wing mirrors. 

The folding mirror features is just another two wires carrying 12v , which is reversed in polarity for fold/unfold operation. The actuating motors contain internal limit switches to detect full fold/unfold positions which cuts off power to the motors.

It is possible to buy a Toyota folding mirror control  switch, but this would mean chopping and rewiring the connector blocks on the rear of the switch harness, as the connectors and wiring pin arrangements differ. Also, some of the alternative toyota model switches are not backlit.

You could also make it "auto fold on lock", by using the intelligent  "Excel" model control switch.. However,  this requires the chop and change and extra input signal wires for locked/unlocked, door open/closed, ignition on/off signals (not wired to existing harness connector).

I will keep things simple for now, with minimal impact to existing wiring.

I have decided to keep the original wing mirror control switch , and to fit an additional  switch on an adjoining blank plate to control the fold/unfold operation.

This will be a  standard DPDT (double pole double throw,) switch arrangement with three positions (fold, off, unfold). You could use a 2 position DPDT switch (fold, unfold), but l prefer the flexibility of the extra middle "off" position. This gives you the ability to isolate power to the wing mirrors, should the actuators develop a  fault, or freeze up in winter.

Wiring schematic:

The DPDT switch is wired in a crossover arrangement to reverse incoming 12v polarity to the wing mirrors from the adjoining wing mirror control switch connector.

The most difficult part of the upgrade will be running a pair of wires from the new switch to both the wing mirrors, via the rubber door conduits, as the existing door and body looms do not carry the extra pair of wires.

Next step:
Run wire through rubber door conduits.
 

[Wooster]

5 hours ago, solero said:

This feature was not available on Active, Icon, Business Edition or Design models.

I don't doubt you, but I think it's strange that my car does not have heated seats, but the wiring for them is behind the switches on the centre consul. 

[solero]

Yes i upgraded my seats to heated by plugging in new seats and a switch. Also upgraded to cruise control and speed limiter switch. See my posts.

I have opened up connectors and checked wiring schematics from toyota for power mirrors. They are different on my icon. 

Im sure other people would have posted victory if it was plug n play.

[solero]

I revisited the schematics, and the 2 wires in the harness for folding mirrors (without auto fold on lock feature) are supported in the following models *5 or *6

Notes:

*5 : S/D, H/B Prior May 2014, W/G Prior May 2014
*6 : H/B May 2014 or later Prior May 2015, W/G May 2014 or later Prior May 2015

S/D being sedan . Im assuming this is the non-uk corolla model

H/B being hatchback.

W/G being station wagon (estate touring sport)

So *6 indicates hatchbacks and estates between may 2014 and pre may 2015 carry the extra power fold wires. But models after this do not.

There is a separate schematic for "auto fold on lock" models with the intelligent control switch i mentioned earlier.

I can confirm the wires on my non folding control switch connector for jan 2016 hatchback are missing, as documented.

There are only 7 wires on the connector, 2 power and 5 for the horizontal and vertical control. There would be a 9 wires for the power fold supported  models.

Similarly, the same 2 wires are missing on connectors in the footwell leading to the door looms.

 

[solero]

Minor correction to above wire counts.

9 wires on NON-power fold mirror, rather than 7 (Extra 2 wires for backlit illumination, missing in toyota schematic)

Pins 20,21 are the missing connections to power fold motors

.

 

[Longman42]

Hi there!
I have a 2014 Auris hatchback. If I'm reading what you've posted right, am I correct in saying that I could get a set of power folding mirrors and the correct switch, and simply plug them into the pre-existing connections?
I was surprised how easy it was to fit cruise control, so I'm just wondering if I could get another handy upgrade for my icon!

On 2/4/2024 at 2:02 AM, solero said:

I revisited the schematics, and the 2 wires in the harness for folding mirrors (without auto fold on lock feature) are supported in the following models *5 or *6

Notes:

*5 : S/D, H/B Prior May 2014, W/G Prior May 2014
*6 : H/B May 2014 or later Prior May 2015, W/G May 2014 or later Prior May 2015

S/D being sedan . Im assuming this is the non-uk corolla model

H/B being hatchback.

 

[flash22]

why are you trying to reinvent the wheel?

All the logic is in the switch its a case of swapping the mirrors (if they are not the folding type) add 3 wires and change the switch to the 28 pin type folding and auto folding mirrors are the same, its all in the switch

I have done the illuminated switch mod with full auto (mine has auto mirrors but the Yaris didn't get the illuminated switch)

the full auto mirror switches are very different from the standard folding type

this mod has been done on the yaris a few times and a few IQs that I have assisted with

Ps. Illumination is not on the wiring diagrams for the mirrors as it's listed in the illumination schematics, the mirror fold/retract is ic controlled as it's not just a switch as it uses current detection to detect the mirror limits, illumination wise the standard folding switch are missing the diodes, resistors, and LEDs, more importantly, they missing the translucent keycaps/buttons

 

 

Cut and paste from a recent thread

The Auris/lexus ct200 switch is the easier one to find, Toyota did not put the part number on the switch it just uses the manufacturer number on it, they are usually listed, with this number

I do have the full pinouts for the switches,

You will need to run 2 wires to 1 mirror to split the mirror fold/retract supply - folding mirrors use the same 2 wires for both mirrors, and the auto-folding mirrors use 4 wires 2 for the left and 2 for right

1 wire for the door lock/unlock signal

the 3 wires can be found in the driver's footwell

 

Switch part No. 84870-02101 Manufacturers Part No. 183691

 

folding mirror switch (Non auto)

 

full auto

Auris switch in my Yaris

[solero]

Thanks for this info.

Did you have to run wires from the switch to the wing mirrors for the power fold motors?

As the wires are definitely not present on my model of auris. Connectors:

GE3: pins 6, 7

HE1: pins 4, 14

I was trying to keep things simple, without the extra signals and chopping changing connectors for the intelligent switch.

[flash22]

If you do not have folding mirrors, you will not have the wiring so will need to pull 2 wires in to each door and add a wire for the lock/unlock signal

base auris cars have a 5 pin round plug (non heated mirrors), other models have the 14 pin oblong connector

Auris mirror pinout.pdf

 

Edit. I forgot the Auris used the 22 pin connector, so this should help

Auris mirror switches.pdf

 

[solero]

On 2/10/2024 at 5:50 PM, flash22 said:

If you do not have folding mirrors, you will not have the wiring so will need to pull 2 wires in to each door and add a wire for the lock/unlock signal

base auris cars have a 5 pin round plug (non heated mirrors), other models have the 14 pin oblong connector

Auris mirror pinout.pdf 331.63 kB · 3 downloads

 

Edit. I forgot the Auris used the 22 pin connector, so this should help

Auris mirror switches.pdf 318.32 kB · 3 downloads

 

Thanks again for this inf, and confirming wiring runs.

I think i will stick with my original plan, as im not too fussy on switch aesthetics, as long as its functional.

Any tips on running wires through door conduits?

 

[flash22]

Unplug the loom in the footwell, and you need to release the harness inside the door, the end of the rubber boot is taped to the harness in the door

pictures for reference

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265359529162

 

the auto mirror switches are all 28 pin with/without illumination - if the text on the switch is bright white it's printed on and not illuminated - if the text is an off-white and opaque it is illuminated

 

the problem with just a switch is in has no current detection to detect the end of travel what will lead to burning the motor out

 

[solero]

11 hours ago, flash22 said:

Unplug the loom in the footwell, and you need to release the harness inside the door, the end of the rubber boot is taped to the harness in the door

pictures for reference

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265359529162

 

the auto mirror switches are all 28 pin with/without illumination - if the text on the switch is bright white it's printed on and not illuminated - if the text is an off-white and opaque it is illuminated

 

the problem with just a switch is in has no current detection to detect the end of travel what will lead to burning the motor out

 

These actuator motor units have current sensors built internally. Plenty of demos on youtube showing them in forward and reverse polarity with auto cut out at full fold and un fold positions.

See below

 

[solero]

Next Step:

Run wires through dor jambs end to end.

Take off trim in foot wells.

Pull out rubber conduits from both ends. You may need to disconnect the Wiring Loom connectors to give more slack.

The top side of the conduit is taped up. Rather than take apart, i found an entry hole in which i fed theough a spring net wire. Its quita tight space, but managed to pull it through.

Tape the twin core wire to the draw net wire and pull/feed through slowly.

Passenger side was easier than driver side. Tuck sufficient length into door to run to wing mirror later. Run other end to mirror switch behind glove box and below steering column. Tape along the way and avoid any rubbing points. Leave some slack in the footwells, should the wire ever need to be cut at a later date to remove door.

Took me about an hour and half to do the runs end to end.

 

[solero]

Next Step: Wire up the control switch

Cutout rectangle for switch to fit in switch blank plate.  I used a dremel and sharp knife. I ended up using a on off dpdt switch rather than on-off-on dpdt as thats all i had in my toolkit.

Solder up cross over wires and in out wires. I used male/female connectors to allow easy connect disconnect.

I fed the 12v power input from the existing mirror switch.

Grey: pin 18 : +12v

Black/white: pin 20: Ground

I back probed these wires into existing connector giving them sufficient solder tinned length for a tight compression fit. No damage to existing wiring.

Tested output with multimeter showing polarity being reversed on switching operation

Reassembled panel with output connector to wing mirrors disconnected until i get free time for the next step of this project.

 

 

 

 

[solero]

The wiring for the dpdt switch has output and input wires swapped, compared to my original schematic. However, it makes no difference to function.

About 2-3 hours work for this wiring, mostly on cutout of switch panel.

Now just the retrofit of the new folding motors to the existing wing mirror units and wiring hookup left to do.

[yyarm]

Have you had any luck with fitting folding motors? It looks like Auris has completely different fittings to Corolla and these motors won't fit. I tried to disassemble my mirror today and got stuck.

[solero]

See if i get time tomorrow and the weathers ok. Have all the bits, just need time. Watch this space.

Do you have any pictures of the issue you are facing?

These are the ones i bought:

 

[yyarm]

Basically I bought the same actuator motors as on your photos. I watched a few videos on youtube how to install them on Corolla. But our mirrors are quite different. You can't really disassemble them. Have a look at the photo how it is supposed to be.  The motor is combined with a spring in one unit.  This photo is of Excel version. 

[solero]

Did you unclip the lower plastic half to access the motor mounting screws.

That picture doesn't look like its motorized.

Heres mines: i can see screws underneath.

 

[yyarm]

I did. My one is exactly like yours. The heads of the screws you can see from the top when you fold/unfold your mirror. It's not  them. I believe  in order to disassemble the mirror we need to compress the spring.

There is 2 wires (blue and green) on the picture I posted earlier. They are the feed for the motor. Compare to this picture.

 

It's like my one without them

[solero]

In your excel pic, it looks like the green and blue feed a connector the folding motor, but the following yellow/white wires have been chopped and going nowhere. Definitely has no motor in that pic. Possibly a doctored part for sale where folding motor has already been stripped and swapped with manual fold?

As you can see they are bulky and replace that manual spring mechanism . Yes needs compress and twist release with a pair of long nose pliers.

Less words and more action 😀 i will try and have a go Sunday.

[yyarm]

I hope you find a way to do it. I looked on some other pictures, they are all similar to excel one

[solero]

Sun was shining so got up an hour early to investigate.

Steps:

Tweeters off, door card off, unplugged, wing mirror removed.

Mirror face upwards max, and levered out using pry tool. 3 Motor screws out, indicator off.

2 of the 3 screws on the swivel base cam put, but 3rd was not easily accessible. I do think the spring needs to be compressed before the pivot pin will come out. But its a very very strong spring.

Time was running out as car was needed later. I think you are right that this motor will not fit in. There seems to be a moulded cavity behind the mirror for an actuator, but its blocked off. Car reassembled.

Disappointed, but wont give up yet. A battle for another day. If anybody has a broken unwanted wing mirror, do let me know.

Photos attached, should this help anybody needing to take mirror apart.

 

 

 

[solero]

I wish o saw this video earlier, to remove that inner carcass.

 

[yyarm]

I doubt it would help you. Our mirrors are different, I watched that video but that trick didn't work. We have an additional plastic housing, which is part of the mirror, that prevents inner carcass from coming out