Yaris P1 (1999-2005) Tuning/Modifing

[akewalle]

Hi everyone, i own a Yaris P1 from 2001 1.0 and i want to make it a little bit funnier, but i actually don't want to make any damage, so can anyone give me some tips? And also telling me if the engine parts of the 1.0 and the 1.5 (like the injectors) are compatible and i can do an upgrade or not.

Thank you

[flash22]

Don't waste your money on a 1.0 save the money and spend it on the next car

[akewalle]

On 2/7/2024 at 5:02 PM, flash22 said:

Don't waste your money on a 1.0 save the money and spend it on the next car

ok, i will. But those engines shares the same parts or not?

[flash22]

1.0 is the 1SZFE engine, 1.3 depends if it French (2SZFE) or Jap built (2NZFE) the 1.5 is the 1NZFE

 

1SZ and 2SZ use the same injectors

1NZ and 2NZ use the same injectors*

 

Any mods you do injectors, exhaust, or intake will make very little gains without a remap (not one of these 100 euro scam tuning chips)

 

if you really want to mod the car start with brakes, suspension, and tires, given it is 22+ years old the suspension and bushes are tired - with small-engined cars, it is all about momentum - a good service and gearbox fluid change works wonders

[skidlid]

17 hours ago, flash22 said:

Any mods you do injectors, exhaust, or intake will make very little gains without a remap (not one of these 100 euro scam tuning chips)

The injectors that came with the engine I fitted to my "classic" were good for about 140 bhp but with my planned mods (cam verniers, exhaust, throttle bodies, inlet) I hoped to get nearer 175 bhp. There were 2 schools of thought amongst owners who had done this, the cheapest was to simply fit an adjustable pressure regulator and increase the pressure then re-map to suit, this gave people about 160 bhp or fit new injectors and a custom properly mappable ECU, the people who had done this got nearer 175 bhp.

Went for the 2nd option, cost more but bhp/pound was probably about the same and in the 20 years since I did the work there has been no issues other than a fuel pump (they seem to last 12 years in my experience - will replace it in 2029 on its 12th birthday). Mapping was easier since the software for the ECU is easily available, easy to use and free and the new shorter injectors (Weber Marelli Pico - good for about 220 bhp) got round a clearance issue I had with the standard length ones making install far easier. Good news was it made the 175 bhp I was hoping for.

But none of this is cheap to do. Even on my car which has some value it did not increase its value by the cost of the mods (probably close after I had sold off the old parts), on a 22 year old hatch you would probably never see a penny back.

[flash22]

op has a 1.0, been there done that got the dvd, if you are going to modify a car you start with a base you can work with

 

engine tuning is not cheap you can drop £6-10K on an engine build, tuning and dyno time is not cheap either

long gone are the days of slapping on an exhaust and a twin choke weber for instant gains (twin SU carbs on a mini)

[skidlid]

2 hours ago, flash22 said:

op has a 1.0, been there done that got the dvd, if you are going to modify a car you start with a base you can work with

 

engine tuning is not cheap you can drop £6-10K on an engine build, tuning and dyno time is not cheap either

long gone are the days of slapping on an exhaust and a twin choke weber for instant gains (twin SU carbs on a mini)

When I put the current engine in mine I had already fitted the same basic engine (cost me £100 from a burn out) a few years earlier but had kept the Weber 45's from the previous engine and reused the ignition ECU I had. Simply modified the sump and fitted a new cam belt. Obviously I had the inlet from this earlier install and the custom exhaust. The Webers were easy enough to jet (info on the web regarding parts needed) and there were quite a few local(ish) tuners who had suitable ignition maps. Once fitted and wired up it started first time (yup, I was stunned) and ran well. A trip to the RR found little to tweak and I ran it like that for 4 years.

When I decided to go the injection route I took the opportunity to obtain a brand new engine which at the time were available for about £750 still in a crate and shrink wrapped. Loads of stuff fitted to it I did not need, sold the lot on eBay for about £250 meaning the new engine was £500 net, bargain. Did not need the Webers or ignition ECU so they went on specialist websites and sold for about £500 meaning at this time I had spent nothing.

The new engine went strait in the car and then the spending started. New mapped ECU, loom, injectors, throttle bodies (slight seconds with regards to paint), injection pump (used only for startup on another car), regulator, fuel pipes, it got expensive to say the least, about £2500 in total.  But as before it started first time and with my wide band lambda box I tweeked the fueling. It ran beautifully and its never really needed touching. Due a cam belt now. MPG on Webers was about 25 mpg, on injection with more power and way better drivability its doing 36 mpg.

The original engine is under the bench should it ever be needed.